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I recently replaced my battery with a new AC Delco. The old one was 5 years old and read 12.3V on my meter. The car started but I was getting the column lock code...first time. I have gotten no the pull key message before and associated it with a weak battery.
The new battery read 12.5v before install. I put it in and drove and it rose to 12.6 afterwards. No more codes.
Then, the next time I drove the car on a trip, it didn't want to start when I stopped for just a few minutes. There were sounds when I cranked it. I turned the AC and fan off. It started. 12.7 on my meter when home. Turned over fine in garage.
Yesterday, I got in the car after 2 weeks without driving and no battery tender. The door locks and chimes worked. I cracked it...it made a sound...and all electrical function died. No chimes, key fob doesn't work. Battery still connected obviously...reads 12.3v.
So where would a bad ground have to be to take down all power? Most likely...on a c5?PCM cause this?? I had work done that involves PCM tuning last year.
Thanks!!
For ANY battery charging issues especially when dealing with a new battery you should be doing a voltage drop check on the positive and negative side of your charging system !!...also a good idea to check for a parasitic drain.
For ANY battery charging issues especially when dealing with a new battery you should be doing a voltage drop check on the positive and negative side of your charging system !!...also a good idea to check for a parasitic drain.
I agree that more data would help. I don't have the equipment or knowledge. I have not had electrical issues with the c5 other than the worn ignition switch.
It would probably best to take your car to an auto electric shop in your case !!...if the voltages you are quoting is from your DIC that is not the true battery voltage.
No, the voltages are from my hand held voltmeter. I have never measured amp draw. I understand the concept but I don't have experience.
I plan to take the car to a shop but I have seen that most are just awful at finding shorts or any electrical problem. So it is better to know where to look!!
I saw another thread here ...seems the ipc and BCM might be culprits. Also, maybe the seat motors. Any other common causes??
No, the voltages are from my hand held voltmeter. I have never measured amp draw. I understand the concept but I don't have experience.
I plan to take the car to a shop but I have seen that most are just awful at finding shorts or any electrical problem. So it is better to know where to look!!
I saw another thread here ...seems the ipc and BCM might be culprits. Also, maybe the seat motors. Any other common causes??
Thanks
Andy
I forgot...my problem is not just excessive drain. Remember, it had power for the door locks before I crancked it. After I crancked, there are no lights. No light under the hood. When I disconnected the battery, there was no spark. There has always been sparks even with a dead battery!!!!
Make sure the shop checks the connections at the starter. I see your car has headers and the heat can sometimes damage the wires and connections at the starter and will cause the problems you are experiencing.
Make sure the shop checks the connections at the starter. I see your car has headers and the heat can sometimes damage the wires and connections at the starter and will cause the problems you are experiencing.
ok. I will add that to the list. But not even the key fob unlocks the doors after I cracked it. It is as if when I cranked it, a wire from the battery to the rest of the car burned instantly clean through. Current drain would be more gradual.
ok. I will add that to the list. But not even the key fob unlocks the doors after I cracked it. It is as if when I cranked it, a wire from the battery to the rest of the car burned instantly clean through. Current drain would be more gradual.
Will a failed BCM cut all power?? Failed Ipc??
Thanks
Have you used the dic and checked codes? A failed bcm , which is very unlikely in this situation. would set several codes, A loose or corroded connection is the likely source of the problem. Do you have side connections on that battery? They need to be much tighter than most people realize. You should not be able to turn them by hand if properly tightened .
Check to see if you can move the cables on the battery, many people have reported that some batteries have very shallow treaded holes on the battery terminal, and while it seems that the bolts are tight, the battery cable bolt is actually bottoming out.