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This has happened twice. Turn the key on, gauges sweep and instrument panel lights up as it should. Turn to start and I get a single click, I do this 2 more times and get the same results. The 4th time it starts fine. Battery is 2 years old. What do you think?
This has happened twice. Turn the key on, gauges sweep and instrument panel lights up as it should. Turn to start and I get a single click, I do this 2 more times and get the same results. The 4th time it starts fine. Battery is 2 years old. What do you think?
I think you're screwed. Kidding aside check battery cables make sure they are nice and thigh and clean. When I mean thigh a good snug not cranked. Have it tested also batteries are funny sometimes. Start with that
A common wear issue is the switch contacts behind the ignition lock. There are multiple contact "fingers" and they get corroded over time. It could be the contact carrying the most load get the most sparks and burnt carbon on the contacts, so it is intermittent when the other contacts still work as designed. Some remove and clean the contacts, my car was high milage so just put in a new part.
Other than that, nothing distinctive to the design to check beyond the usual suspects, battery and starter connections and condition. My knowledge is very limited, with these cars, it could be anything.
Check your battery cables and the cables at the starter solenoid, making sure they are clean and tight first. From the symptoms you described it could be your TDR, or it could be your starter solenoid which may be starting to fail.
Check your battery cables and the cables at the starter solenoid, making sure they are clean and tight first. From the symptoms you described it could be your TDR, or it could be your starter solenoid which may be starting to fail.
Sorry I did not explain more clearly what is a TDR, it resides above the BCM in the passenger side footwell area behind the toe board. The TDR coil is powered on by 12volts that originates from your ignition switch and goes thru the park safety switch if auto, or thru the clutch depressed switch if it's a standard. The negative side of the TDR coil is provided a ground by the BCM if everything is ok with the VATS, the resistor pellet in the cars key. The TDR sends power to the starter solenoid to crank the engine over when it is energized. So it maybe the contacts in the TDR are going bad or your starter solenoid is the problem.
Sorry I did not explain more clearly what is a TDR, it resides above the BCM in the passenger side footwell area behind the toe board. The TDR coil is powered on by 12volts that originates from your ignition switch and goes thru the park safety switch if auto, or thru the clutch depressed switch if it's a standard. The negative side of the TDR coil is provided a ground by the BCM if everything is ok with the VATS, the resistor pellet in the cars key. The TDR sends power to the starter solenoid to crank the engine over when it is energized. So it maybe the contacts in the TDR are going bad or your starter solenoid is the problem.
Thank you. I will check the volts on the Battery today. Cables are clean and tight on the battery. I can’t get to the starter to check those.
Is there a way to narrow this down, if it’s battery, starter, ignition switch, TDR or key pellet?
If you hear a single click each and every time you turn the key to the start position, it's not the ignition switch or key pellet and most likely the TDR or starter solenoid.
There is a simple test that will determine if the TDR or starter solenoid is the cause of your no start/crank problem. Take a 16 or 18 gauge wire and make a short jumper with the ends stripped of insulation and place between the heavy gauge red and violet wires as they exit the socket the TDR plugs into, if the car cranks over each and every time then your TDR needs to be replaced, if it doesn't then your starter solenoid is the problem, BIG WARNING make absolutely sure your car is in Park or Neutral as doing this bypasses the cars safety interlocks, the moment you place this jumper the car will crank over. If proficient with multimeter you can always check for 12volts on the purple wire at the TDR socket when the key is turned to the start position. Hope this helps, and it's not your battery.
Ok here’s an update. Went out and the car started right up. Checked codes, there are not any codes. Pulled off negative battery terminal and there was quite a bit of corrosion. Cleaned them both. Battery had 12.5 volts. Maybe this will fix it. Thanks for all the help so far.