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I have one lug on a rear wheel that won't come off. I just put these back on, hand threaded and torqued to 110 ft lbs. When I try to remove it it just spins.
Any ideas on how to get it off without destroying the wheel?
I need new tires soon so I need to have this thing correct. I'm thinking I'll have to replace that stud or maybe the hub. It feels like the stud is rotating in the hub.
Initial thought is to remove the other nuts, then **** the wheel so it pulls against the one remaining, and try to use that as leverage to keep the stud from spinning. Be prepared, you may need a new hub due to the damage happening from the stud spinning in it.
If these are the slug type of nut with a stamped sheet metal nut look alike crimped over them the crimp can loosen allowing the sheet metal to spin without turning the slug.
Time to get the drill out it sounds like. I would drill into the nut and try to split it - obviously a conventional nut splitter can't get in there. If the stud is turning, it's toast and so is the hub, so again drilling it away is about the only option, though I would definitely try Fastbird's approach first.
If these are the slug type of nut with a stamped sheet metal nut look alike crimped over them the crimp can loosen allowing the sheet metal to spin without turning the slug.
I agree, and would explore this possibility, first.
Any hub recommendations? Brands? I could just suck it up and order from GM, they last quite a while.
Was the stud spinning in the hub? If so, I think that it is possible that the stud is actually a softer material than the hub, so possibly the "splines" on the stud rounded off, but a new stud may be able to be pulled into the hub, and lock in place.
The whole thing, nut and stud were moving together for sure. I marked the lug with a sharpie and turned it and the mark moved.
Hubs run about 120 bucks for an AC Delco. By the time I get this thing off to put a new stud in, I'm not sure I want to take the chance of having it not come off later.
I know I can drill out the backing plate and push the stud out but I'm not really wanting to go that route.
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Was the stud spinning in the hub? If so, I think that it is possible that the stud is actually a softer material than the hub, so possibly the "splines" on the stud rounded off, but a new stud may be able to be pulled into the hub, and lock in place.
I pulled the hub. Not a bad job at all. I deviated a bit from most of the directions and popped the top ball joint out first by jacking the suspension way up and prying up with a flat bar. Then I was able to pull the knuckle away from the drive shaft and get easy access to the lower ball joint with a wrench and hex key.
I've ordered a Timken hub from Summit and I'm going to swing by tomorrow and pick it up. I hear the showroom there is pretty sweet.
Last edited by 03WhiteConv; Aug 23, 2020 at 07:28 PM.
Nice work man cheers to you for doing the right way . If one of the studs was spinning more than likely another one will probably do it. Or worst yet you replace just the stud and not to far down the road the bearing would go bad. I am not a big fan of drilling holes in other parts to repair another part. Spend the extra money and do it right the first time.
Finished it up, did some cleaning and wrestled it all back together. If you do this, it's handy to have a vice to torque the hub torx bolts down. Before and after.... Take a picture so you know how it goes back together.
These are the cleaners I used on the parts.
Like new!
Honestly the hardest part was getting the brake shoes back on. That spring that holds it on is pretty tricky to put back on.
Last edited by 03WhiteConv; Aug 24, 2020 at 10:43 PM.
Lug nut won't come off!!
. If one of the studs was spinning more than likely another one will probably do it. Or worst yet you replace just the stud and not to far down the road the bearing would go bad. I am not a big fan of drilling holes in other parts to repair another part. Spend the extra money and do it right the first time.
