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Picked up my new to me 2004 CE Z06 yesterday. Wouldn't go into second gear with out jerking the shifter back hard. It's quiet when you do it at lower speeds, but if you do it at normal driving speeds or with any aggression it grinds. Tried adjusting the shifter, and did nothing to improve things. This kind of got dumped in my lap after I paid for the car. (Shoulda got a PPI, I know, I know.) Is it even worth it to try and change the fluid? I'f it's grinding, there is damage being done, correct? If changing the fluid were to quiet it down, it would just be a band aid, no?
It's a really nice car other wise. I'm gonna talk to the guy who I bought it from and see if I can try and get some cash back.
When I bought my frc it did the same thing. I changed the trans and same issue . After I sold it the guy checked the rear end fluid , not the trans and it was dry...not saying that's it but check that
Last edited by Vetteman Jack; Aug 25, 2020 at 11:20 PM.
Yes, change the fluid. I had some issues with mine a few years back and decided to change the fluid before doing anything else. What came out was about half of what should have been in there, but there were/are no leaks - garage floor is always spotless. Filled it with plain old Valvoline Dex/Merc and no re-occurrence of the problem. The owner's manual shows no change interval for the trans fluid, but I think that is optimistic to say the least - It will get changed again after about 50k miles. In my case, I can only assume it was never filled properly at the factory.
Yes, change the fluid. I had some issues with mine a few years back and decided to change the fluid before doing anything else. What came out was about half of what should have been in there, but there were/are no leaks - garage floor is always spotless. Filled it with plain old Valvoline Dex/Merc and no re-occurrence of the problem. The owner's manual shows no change interval for the trans fluid, but I think that is optimistic to say the least - It will get changed again after about 50k miles. In my case, I can only assume it was never filled properly at the factory.
Yep. Mine ended up being the rear end gear fluid somehow. It was bone dry, the trans fluid was full
Question: Dose it grind going from Neutral to first? If so, could be clutch starting to come apart, or Pilot bearing starting to fail.
Look around the outer/inner to see missing T bits. the vibration from that caused damage to pilot bering and would jam and lock the clutch. This happen at around 60k, stock OG clutch.
You will need a new 2nd gear (the dog teeth are worn) and a new 1-2 syncro assembly (where it engages the dog teeth are worn).
While in there the 3-4 syncro assembly is probably thrashed too. New seals, might as well get new bearings.
I changed all syncros, 2nd gear, new seals, bearings and paid $1700 in parts alone for the gearbox(Rebuilt it myself). Plus add a new clutch, rebuild the torque tube, remote speed bleeder, new slave and master cylinders. Plus making the tool and buying the gauge to check and adjust trans shim backlash. It was expensive, and that’s with me doing 100% of the work.
I went through the same thing with my 2004 this year. Changed fluids adjusted the shifter bled the clutch and nothing helped. Decided to pull the rear end and trans and sent both to the shop. Rear end had leaking seal so i had them go through it and put new seals, Trans came apart and what they found was a cracked 2nd gear synchro ring.
I pulled the complete assembly out in my garage, its a task but very doable if you have tools and patience. If you take it to a shop expect to cover 15-18 hours labor plus the cost of rebuilding the transmission.
Previous owner is covering the trans!!!! Will be getting one from RPM. Will be replacing the clutch, TOB, and adding a remote bleeder. Any other maintenance I should do while it is torn down? Car has 50,000 miles on it.
Previous owner is covering the trans!!!! Will be getting one from RPM. Will be replacing the clutch, TOB, and adding a remote bleeder. Any other maintenance I should do while it is torn down? Car has 50,000 miles on it.
Check the guts in the TT, and a pilot bearing, check the TT's impute to make sure it's running true.
Previous owner is covering the trans!!!! Will be getting one from RPM. Will be replacing the clutch, TOB, and adding a remote bleeder. Any other maintenance I should do while it is torn down? Car has 50,000 miles on it.
That is great news, I am glad they are making it right. While you have the rear end out go ahead and replace the output shaft seals. Check the rubber mount under the differential as well. The shift linkage is known to get a little slip in the joints. I used a center punch around the pins to tighten the play up in mine. Obviously new gear oil in the rear end check the bushings shocks and other rear suspension components while it’s out.
keep us updated on the progress,
you’re inspecting the rubber couplers, there’s two of them, and you should change the bearings especially the one in front. There are 2 bearings in the back.
Yes check the couplers. They also make better couplers if you wanna go that route. Pilot, throw out and needle bearing as well. Heck a new clutch wouldn't hurt. An ls7 would be scary
Previous owner is covering the trans!!!! Will be getting one from RPM. Will be replacing the clutch, TOB, and adding a remote bleeder. Any other maintenance I should do while it is torn down? Car has 50,000 miles on it.
This is wonderful news! Sadly, most people aren't this honorable these days so I am happy for you.
Everything you described happened to me only after 3 years of ownership of my car and my car at the time only had 50,000 miles on the clock at the time. You have gotten some good advice here and some of this may be repetitive. If you are planning on keeping the car for a long time, since everything is exposed, here's what I did:
1) RPM Transmission
2) Consider an LS7 Clutch and Flywheel. Stronger than the LS6 but won't break your bank like some of the exotic aftermarket clutches you can buy.
3) Speed bleeder
4) New 2004 GM Clutch master cylinder (Do not get a Tick Master cylinder whatever you do)
5) Torque tube overhaul...I replaced torque tube couplers
6) C6 shaft seals on rear differential
7) O-rings along the drive train
8) DTE brace (totally optional)
I have over 90K miles on the car now and trans is still rock solid.
Grinding on 1-2 shift.
