1: Planning on RPM transmission
2: No desire to up grade the clutch. I have no plans on increasing power, or working the car hard enough to need a better clutch. Will look into OEM, or slight upgrade (not requiring new flywheel.)
3: Speed bleeder is on my shopping list.
4: Do you mean the master for a 2004 model year Z06? Is the clutch master something that is failure prone or ages out?
5: Will go through the TT while it's out.
6: Has a shaft seal weaping on the diff, so that was gonna get addressed. Fluid recommendations?
7: O rings go where the major components meet?
8: Gonna pass on the DTE brace. Car is stock and won't see sticky tire drag strip launches.




Can anyone recommend a good write up on how to pull the trans? I watched a youtube video, I didn't like how high up on jack stands it was to get the mufflers off. They had the car kinda sketchy nosed down on jack stands. I may pull the mufflers at work, and drive it home with no mufflers to do the job, then just drive it back to work and put the mufflers back on. But I'd rather just do it all at home.

 

It's a job, everything has to come off. In my opinion get a trans shop to remove it. Depending on their cost it might be cheaper in the long run not to have to worry about the headache

 

Don’t worry about the mufflers. They can hang in place, use a zip tie to keep the flange end up after you unbolt them, use the zip tie loop hang it to gas tank heat shield bolt that is near by. After you get the rear cradle lowered you can removed the mufflers.

I had my car up about 20.5” on jack stands when I removed the transmission earlier this month.

 

no write up but I did mine on the floor with jack stands, if you have or can get some ramps or big blocks i would leave the front tires on the car and let the tires sit in blocks. This means less weight on jack stands. I also left my wheels under the side of the car when I was crawling around under it. You need the back of the car pretty high for the rear cross member and diff/trans assembly to clear the rear bumper and trunk. 2 floor jacks and 2 people will really make this job easier.

 

If you decide to do this yourself, make sure to pay close attention to brake line routing and clips. There is also some wiring on top of the trans that needs to be un-clipped and and routed out of the way. A couple of tips to help you out. Take your time, it doesn't look like it but once you remove the clips from the cradle and the axles are out the brake lines will clear the differential. No need to disconnect them. Zip tie the calipers up to keep them out of the way.
your exhaust is pretty straight forward removal but be ready the H pipe is heavy and awkward. Make sure not to damage your 02 sensors and wires, they are clipped into the tunnel.
Remove the upper shock bolts, loosen the lower shock nut and bolt. Remove the upper A arm bolts and put the bolts back in where they came from or bag and tag everything.Once loose the shock can come out easy.
To remove the axle from the differential jack the lower A Arm up so the cv axle is straight, if you try to pull the axle out with a lot of angle it will bind up. The higher the a arm the easier it is to release the little clip. inside the differential.
You will need a long extension to get to the bolts on top of the torque tube, i used a wobble extension or socket to make sure i had good contact.
There are some way better write up on here, much more detail bust giving you some tips here.
Hope it all goes well.

Blocks stacked under front tires

I had to raise the rear end higher to get enough clearance.



Floor jacks are a must

 

I know there are different opinions on this, but the clutch cover plate and the flywheel come as a kit as they are zero balanced together. The internal crank balancing at GM wasn't the best, so for all manual gearbox cars they hot balanced them at the end. If they were off they added weights to the flywheel to correct it. If you change your clutch, which will mean changing the flywheel, make a note as to whether you have a weight in it. If you do, note where it is as you will need to transfer it to the new flywheel in the same position. The weights are a GM part and you can still get them, I know as I ordered some from the US.

The weights are not to balance the flywheel as that would be done by machining like any other flywheel, they are to fine balance the crank.

There was a post on here somewhere from a GM tech that used to do it in the factory.

Anyway, something to think about

 

Thanks for the advice and tips! I'm gonna pick up some lumber tomorrow and make some ramps to drive it up on, jack it up, put the front wheels on cribbing stands and jack stands on the rear lift point. I can just set the jack stand under the puck? Next question, can the shaft between the shifter and trans wear out, or slip? I put the stock shifter back in it, and put everything back together today with plans to just drive it with out second for a few days while I get my garage sorted out and now the shifter flops around like it's in neutral in any gear, and won't go left enough to engauge first or second. Just wondering if I should look at that while it's apart.

 

Yes there are some wear points in the shift linkage and the lower shifter box that need to be looked at. Did you do the shifter alignment process when reinstalling?
Simply put the transmission in neutral with the Ebrake on, loosen the 3 Torx fasteners, 2 on the torque tube and one on the pinch bolt for the shifter rod, Drop the pin into the slot and re torque the fasteners, all 3 to 30 N.M or 22 ft lbs. The 2 torque tube fasteners first, then the pinch bolt. Pull the pin back up, that’s it. USE AN ALLEN WRENCH OR DRILL BIT IF THE PIN IS MISSING, you want it to just fit inside the hole in the shaft, stocking straight up. push the box forward if there is a little play then tighten the bolts.
Did you have an aftermarket lower box in the car? The bushings in the lower box tend to wear out this creates a little slop, pull the shifter and check the the rubber mounts for the shift box to the torque tube, this is another area that tends to deteriorate due to heat and age..
There are also 2 joints in the shift linkage itself that tend get some play, they are held in place with roll pins, take a look at the picture on the thread below. MIne was a little loose i actually center punched around the swivel pins to tighten them up a little but still letting them move.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ic-inside.html
Hope this helps.

 

Where should I shop for parts?

 

So RPM says the offer no warranty if a speed bleeder is used...