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I used a National Bearing bronze pilot bushing (there is a ton of debate and zero clear winner on whether to use a bearing or bushing) Luk slave cylinder, remote bleeder, new rear main seal, ARP flywheel bolts, and this clutch kit with the Ram billet aluminum flywheel. If you want I can swing by or meet ya in Milford and let you drive the car - the clutch feels 100% oem stock but has no issues at all with the new found horsepower.
Some of those parts sound like what Tony Mamo is putting together. He said he has the setup balanced at RPS. I pulled the bottom of the belhousing off and the clutch looks like its under 1/8" on each side. About how thick are new ones? I'd definitely like to check your car out sometime, just let me know what works for you. Thanks!
I haven’t done it, but having read a few threads you should just have to drop the front cradle enough to clear the oil pan to allow the motor to slide forward off the input shaft. It would be WAY less work than pulling the rear cradle and TT. I think you would almost be crazy not to do it this way with your motor down to the short block.
When you say lower the front cradle does that mean just loosen the bolts most of the way? And will any suspension need to be removed for that?
I dont have it jacked up very high yet but just glancing it looks like the xpipe and the big plate under the torque tube needs to come off to get to the 5 or 6 bolts bolting the tt to the belhousing?