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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 07:56 AM
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Default Clutch question and help

So this past winter, I installed a new master clutch cylinder, it was developing a sticky clutch pedal feel, the car drives fine no clutch problems, until I rev the car up at a stop, then the pedal wants to stick, so this past week, I revved the car with several high rpms, and when I tried to engage the clutch to go forward, the pedal was soft and wouldn’t engage, so the car drifted back, did this a few times, I pulled the e-brake and worked the clutch pedal a few times, then regained tight pedal feel, then the clutch started engaging again. So what might be going on here? Is my clutch going? Please help. Thanks
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 08:28 AM
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What clutch do you have? Mileage on the clutch and slave cylinder? It sounds more like a hydraulic issue than a clutch issue. How did you bleed the hydros when you installed the new master?
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by oharal
What clutch do you have? Mileage on the clutch and slave cylinder? It sounds more like a hydraulic issue than a clutch issue. How did you bleed the hydros when you installed the new master?
clutch is factory, 44k on clutch and slave, I benched bled the new master clutch cylinder.
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverwolf_pup
clutch is factory, 44k on clutch and slave, I benched bled the new master clutch cylinder.
If that's all you did and didn't bleed the slave once they were connected, that's your problem. Im surprised it isn't worse. You have air in the hydros and you need to bleed the slave cylinder. I've heard of people being able to do it by removing the intake manifold but I'm skeptical myself. It's a big job to do it correctly if you don't have a remote bleeder valve.
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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My thoughts are the SLAVE is trashed and failing. You can try bleeding the entire system. That's a last resort from the next logical step. " Clutch replacement" Some believe that there is built up clutch dust between the slave and the area on the Torque Tube Input Shaft where the slave slides. You could try washing that area out/flushing with solvent "BRAKE CLEANER" and see if that resolves the issue but the real cure is a new slave. With all the work/labor necessary to replace just the slave, it is more dollar wise to do all the clutch wear parts at the same time.

If it worth the time to experiment with the slave cylinder flushing and washing the dust out of the slave sliding parts, give it a GO and see what happens.

Bill
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by oharal
If that's all you did and didn't bleed the slave once they were connected, that's your problem. Im surprised it isn't worse. You have air in the hydros and you need to bleed the slave cylinder. I've heard of people being able to do it by removing the intake manifold but I'm skeptical myself. It's a big job to do it correctly if you don't have a remote bleeder valve.
IIRC (and it has been a few years) you can reach the bleeder valve if you lower the engine cradle just a bit. It is next to the clutch hydro line at about 1 o'clock at the torque tube. This will be a very very tight place to work! (Below: it is the short piece on the side)


Last edited by Dutch08; Oct 2, 2020 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 12:37 PM
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You can also remove the intake manifold , lay over the engine and reach the bleeder at the back of the engine/bell housing. Sounds like a lot of work but, in reality, its pretty easy

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Oct 2, 2020 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 01:41 PM
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It's entirely possible that the slave is also bad but with a system full of air there is no way to demonstrate that. The system absolutely must be bled first. If it still doesn't work after being properly bled then that conclusion could be reasonably drawn at that point. The OP skipped a major fundamental step.
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Old Oct 2, 2020 | 01:53 PM
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Yep,, Start there at a minimum!

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Old Oct 8, 2020 | 02:42 PM
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Forgot I also replaced the pilot bearing. Buy the harbor freight blind bearing puller kit. It's inexpensive.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
My thoughts are the SLAVE is trashed and failing. You can try bleeding the entire system. That's a last resort from the next logical step. " Clutch replacement" Some believe that there is built up clutch dust between the slave and the area on the Torque Tube Input Shaft where the slave slides. You could try washing that area out/flushing with solvent "BRAKE CLEANER" and see if that resolves the issue but the real cure is a new slave. With all the work/labor necessary to replace just the slave, it is more dollar wise to do all the clutch wear parts at the same time.

If it worth the time to experiment with the slave cylinder flushing and washing the dust out of the slave sliding parts, give it a GO and see what happens.

Bill
It’s almost time to put my car in hibernation, so over the course of winter I will see if I can drop the transmission, then replace the slave, I think the clutch is still good, it drives fine even with hard shifting, I done the take off from 3rd gear and it done fine. So I will evaluate the clutch wear when I get it off. Thanks

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