I purchased this intake a long time ago. I believe it's a fast intake but if it is the logo has been removed and the intake painted.
It may be missing some part?
Below are the pictures.





What exactly do I have here. I do have the silicon seals and bolts that came with the intake.
It appears it's for Catheral Ports. I will get the port picture and download it soon.
Any help is appreciated.

 

I believe you have a FAST intake. Perhaps the older 90mm, which is no longer made. It's still a good intake. Check for cracks where someone may have tightened it down with something between the intake and heads. A buddy of mine did that once. He was lucky, it didn't leak. Early ones had both Wilson/FAST
molded on them. I know you said someone removed the info, but there could be some telltale signs left. I know of no other intake that comes apart like that, so I'm pretty certain it is a FAST. Take a measurement of the opening, and call FAST.

 

On closer look, I don't know if it's for Cathedral ports, or not. Those look like rectangular openings. What engine are you putting it on?

 

I planned on installing it on a LS1.
I measured the TB. It's 90mm.
it appears the manifold is missing the runners or inserts.
I checked on the fit onto the motor and it didn't fit down correctly. After some research I found out It takes replacement bolts with shorter heads.
I may not noticed with out the input from the board. (Thanks)
I don't think it will work as it.
Not sure what to do with it as I have not been able to find the inserts.

 

Its a FAST 90 and from what I see, it is complete. There are no other INSERTS. The seals get layed into the middle /base section and the top gets bolted on. You have to be really particular with the inner seals. Especially where they intersect. I home ported mine and it made a tremendous difference. Not for the faint of heart. Once mine was all sealed up, I covered ALL of the manifold openings and filled it full of water to see if there was any leaks. I was 100% successful. NO LEAKS.

YES, you have to use the modified valley cover bolts that are less tall then the stock bolts. What LS engine are you putting it on? The early LS engines 97-2000 have the steam cross over lines that you will have to deal with. The 02-04 LS engines don't have that plumbing under the manifold to worry about and are easier. Its always a good idea to trial fit the base to the heads to see if it sits FLAT onto the heads with out any rocking or gaps from interference.

What Throttle Body are you using on it?? Make sure that you get a silver blade LS 2 90mm. Somme of the aftermarket ones don't work.

Bill .

 

Everyone thank for the input. The LS1 is over 20 years old and the tech has changed. I sure appreciate the input.
It came with some sealing rope. Looks like L don't have enough of the sealing "O" rings for the individual internal runners.


I uploaded a picture above. So maybe the black stuff in the ribs is the seals already installed in all the groves? Is the seals really important to seal in this area? Wish I knew how to make the pictures with less resolution.


Below are some additional seals that came with the intake. It has seals on the manifold to port. Unsure what these green and orange seals are for?


I have included A picture of the TB below.



Now I only need the replacement screws for the valley cover and to figure out how to deal with the steam ports in the back.
I understand the 98-2002 LS6 Intake Swap Coolant Line can be blocked off.
Only the front steam lines are really required. Heck I may be able to use this intake after all?
Thanks.

 

I have an 02 ZO6. The 2001-2004 LS engine did not have the same coolant plumbing under the manifold as the 97-2000 LS engines had. The rear steam ports are blocked off. That being said, when I did my heads cam up grade, I used a 2001+ front coolant line in the rear of the engine "flipped backwards) to ADD that cooling steam line that GM removed. Adds safety to the rear cylinders (#7 & #8) that are prone to ring damage due to heat if you get a steam pocket) . If you carefully press the early steam lines down to the floor of the valve valley cover (equal to or below the height of the new valley cover bolts), you can keep the early steam lines without issue.

As I stated earlier, ALWAYS fit the manifold onto the heads without manifold gaskets and see if it sits FLAT onto the heads without rocking or large gaps!!!! If you have that, you are GOLDEN! I test fit mine and as careful as I am, I had to do a little bit of moving stuff for a perfect flat fit. Not a big deal but if needs to be done.

Each runner needs to be sealed inside the manifold. Call or contact FAST and see if they still offer a FAST 90 gasket set. You will need to use black RTV to complete the areas where the runner seals meet the orange base gasket. See if you can carefully stretch the black runner gaskets to get closer to the orange base gaskets. Then you will not have to use so much RTV to make sure the seal is complete. My RTV bead looked just like the runner seal and blended in excellent. Let it cure and when you install the top, everything will be properly sealed between each runner. I cant remember if all my gaskets were the same color and if those runner gaskets are the correct size. As long as they protrude above the runner channels, they should seal inside the manifold. You could add Preussen Blue or Diecem Blue to the seals and install the top and see if you have a complete seal between the top and the runners/base. Best to be safe than sorry..

On another note, those runners come out if you remove the runner to base screws. That's how I ported my FAST 90 lower base to head openings. Its easy to see if there is any mismatch between the heads and manifold base. I used a electric finger file to make everything match 100%. Again, usually NOT for the average guy who has no experience carving on aluminum or plastic. Its tooooo easy to make a mess or destroy the base.

Always use NEW manifold to head seals. You can get them from any autoparts store!

What Throttle body is on the end of that manifold?? Looks like a NON Throttle By Wire TB. Wont work on a C5/C6. Make sure you find a true LS2 Silver blade TB and a quality wire conversion kit.

The little SHORT vacuum line behind the manifold is something else that you will need to address. My FAST 90 has a vacuum fitting on the passengers side of the rear of the manifold which required me to lengthen that vacuum line. The OEM Manifold has the vacuum line direcly in the center of the manifold. Trust me, you will want to lengthen that line. I also moved my MAP sensor from the rear of the manifold to the front of the manifold using a kit that installs into that big round depression directly behind the manifold snout. That hole is for a NON C5 engine Camaro EGR valve. Don't know if they still sell that MAP relocation kit and extension harness that I purchased. You will need to research that project.

Please let me know if you have ANY questions as I have done this project on several cars and have had several FAST manifolds apart and back together again successfully.

Bill

 

Can you show some better pictures of the black runner seals. See if you can get an aspect of how/if they protrude above the runner channels and how close they come to meeting the orange gaskets. As I think back, my runner seals were also black and I had to do RTV sealing so that they completely sealed the runners to the base gasket. It doesn't sound important to seal each runner internal to the manifold but it is. Very important.

Bill

 

Bill
Appreciate the input. First "Fast" Manifold I have installed. Just happens to be an old one. Interesting how little info is available from Fast.

The intake came with a set of these, I have no idea what they are for unless it's the newer intake with the replaceable inserts?



I will get the picture tomorrow.
The motor is a transplant, going into a 1970 C10 Truck.
I am wondering if the Camaro accessories will work in the c10 Chassis. Looks promising.
Thanks again.
Rick