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Looking to save a few bucks and rebuild my front passenger caliper. Pistons took abuse last time on the the track, plus seals are shot. Can anyone recommend me where to look to send it to?
Last time I looked, Doug Rippie Motorsports had kits that included stainless steel pistons. They might also do the rebuild, not sure on that. See why SS pistons are superior for track-
I'm not sure what's involved to do the rebuild. I could get a replacement caliper and give that one back as core , but I wanted to have an original caliper that has the Corvette embossed letters. I've thought about the DRM stainless steel pistons, but then I would have to do the same for the other caliper; I don't want to have unequal heat transfer rates between the two calipers.
I put in the DRM pistons and rebuilt the fronts and rears back in 2016. Had never done it before, but turned out to be really easy and straight forward. I thought removing the pistons was going to be some big ordeal...but you just need a little compressed air, super simple.
Honestly the worst part was getting all the air out of the calipers once reinstalled on the car. But you're going to be doing that regardless. I have a motive power bleeder which helps quite a bit I think.
Rebuild kit is about $11-12... I used the Centric kit.
The centric pistons are about $10 a pop.
In my case I ended up just putting in the DRM pistons up front, and reusing rear pistons--just new seals etc.
When i rebuilt my front calipers in 2014, one thing I remember is that the rubber dust covers had to be seated in the caliper groove and on the piston BEFORE inserting the piston into the piston bore. A bit frustrating before I figured that out. I used a Motive pressure bleeder at the time but today would use the speed bleeders I put on a couple years later.
I posted a DIY with pics on June 29 of this year in C5 Tech. If you plan on tracking a lot, learning to rebuild calipers is a good skill. Smoking seals is an occasional event. SS pistons are OK, but really not needed. Stainless can gall easily in sliding applications, and aluminum is anodic to stainless, and could corrode if you leave brake fluid in the system that has picked up water.
Caliper Rebuild...looking for recommendations
