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I have been researching where to buy ls7 clutch. All of the sites I have looked at have pictures of the clutch. The problem is that half show a picture of a sprung clutch plate and half show a picture of an unsprung clutch plate. I googled the GM part #
24255748. Just want to make sure I get a real GM ls7 clutch. Anyone know which should it be.
I have been researching where to buy ls7 clutch. All of the sites I have looked at have pictures of the clutch. The problem is that half show a picture of a sprung clutch plate and half show a picture of an unsprung clutch plate. I googled the GM part #
24255748. Just want to make sure I get a real GM ls7 clutch. Anyone know which should it be.
I've heard it's a reboxed LUK branded clutch, which work well amyways.
This is the kit I used last year (w/ ram billet aluminum flywheel option). I can tell you the clutch disk does not look like the one in this picture now - so I'm guessing they have upgraded or changed the part. My disk looks like the photo on the right you posted above.
You will also need an LS7 flywheel. There are many to choose from.
Luk LFW191 (Cheapest, but very heavy, google search LS7 clutch on LS1 weights to find where other people weighed them
ACT 600585 - Lightweight, steel
Fidanza: 198171 Lightweight, Aluminum
There are others as well from Centerforce, spec, etc.
Other Parts that you'll need:
Slave Cylinder (I bought mine from Tick to save on shipping with the shim pack below) - Part#24264180
Tick Performance Slave Cylinder Shim Set
GM Pilot Bearing: 14061685
Specialty tools you'll need if you're doing it yourself:
Pilot Bearing Puller Tool (DON'T DO THE HYDRAULIC OR BREAD METHOD TO PUSH THE BEARING OUT. You'll push the plug out of the back of the crank then have to take the oil pan off to fish it out...ask me how I learned this one. I've got the part number for the plug somewhere. It's easiest and cheapest to order that from your local dealer should you end up on that road)
Quick Disconnect Fitting Tool for slave cylinder r&r.
Clutch Alignment Tool: Dorman 14523
Optional parts:
Remote Clutch Bleed Line (buy it with the slave cylinder and shim kit to save on shipping)
New flywheel bolts
New pressure plate bolts - you can end up spending a ton of money on ARP stuff if you want.
I went with the LUK clutch kit, and the Fidanza flywheel to get the overall weight a little bit under the stock LS1 clutch/flywheel weight.
Tip, when you're shopping for clutch and flywheel parts on summit, put in a 2007 Z06 for your vehicle and it will filter to the right stuff. For the slave cylinder/throwout bearing, pilot bearing, bolts, use your vehicle year to filter parts.
Last edited by bradleyss14; Nov 12, 2020 at 11:13 AM.
Looks like that kit includes slave cylinder, for a C6? Which won't work in a C5 so it's kinda money wasted.
BTW with LS7 clutch kit you don't need a shim kit assuming you're using an OE-replacement slave cylinder.
Regarding the clutch kit, you are absolutely correct. I looked back at my order history from summit and I ended up getting 24255748. "Chevy Performance" one, which was just the Luk 02416 without the slave cylinder. I was able to have them price match it down to another website (not sure which), but I think it would have been cheaper to just buy the Luk kit that comes with the slave cylinder, even though I wouldn't be able to use that particular one.
Regarding the spacers on an LS7 clutch on an LS1, I have a GM slave cylinder for a C5 on my C5 and we used the measuring guide from Tick Performance to determine we needed the 1/16" spacer. This is done to ensure that the clutch engages in the middle of the travel and not on the floor. All of this is theoretical right now as the car is still on the lift getting these parts put on.
I had a stock clutch with stock slave and stock master installed early this year. Shop assured me with all stock parts there was no need to measure for or use a shim -- couple thousand miles later, and the pedal is still much closer to the floor than before. Effort is nice, engagement is good, but I would sure like to have had engagement about an inch further up from the floor. Use the shim, if the numbers say to. Hopefully, you'll never know how glad you are that you did.