LS1 engine rebuild
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 790
Likes: 24
From: Pensacola FL
LS1 engine rebuild
So I just purchased my Unicorn lol. WHITE FRC 1999. I’ve always loved a White FRC or ZO6. Well today I picked it up. So my plan with the car is to totally make it MINE. I want to REDO the entire engine to get at least 500 rwhp without a turbo or a charger. I would like to know the do’s an don’ts. An if anyone else has done this do you have a shopping list an what exactly you did. I know it’s a lot but I value your opinions. I am NOT a street racer or a drag racer. But I do high an low speed events through NCCC. I really thank you all in advance an look forward to your responses!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 91
From: Pittsburgh,PA
500 rwhp can be done on the LS1. The problem is with out doing forced induction it can be costly if you want it to last for years. Since you will have to pull the engine anyway my recommendation would be build another engine first perhaps an LS3, which can get to 500+ rwhp easier and maybe cheaper than a LS1 that way you have the stock factory engine if you ever want to go back to stock or the next owner want's to.
Uneducated autodidact
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,410
Likes: 250
From: West of the Sabine, Texas
500 rwhp can be done on the LS1. The problem is with out doing forced induction it can be costly if you want it to last for years. Since you will have to pull the engine anyway my recommendation would be build another engine first perhaps an LS3, which can get to 500+ rwhp easier and maybe cheaper than a LS1 that way you have the stock factory engine if you ever want to go back to stock or the next owner want's to.
That's good advice.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 790
Likes: 24
From: Pensacola FL
500 rwhp can be done on the LS1. The problem is with out doing forced induction it can be costly if you want it to last for years. Since you will have to pull the engine anyway my recommendation would be build another engine first perhaps an LS3, which can get to 500+ rwhp easier and maybe cheaper than a LS1 that way you have the stock factory engine if you ever want to go back to stock or the next owner want's to.
But from everything I’ve been told yes stroking the engine with a good crank it will work. Believe me I would love to be able to put an LS3 in it but I don’t want to spend 20k. Advice?
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,859
Likes: 4,658
Where in the world did you come up with 20k for an LS3? A stock LS7 is available for around 12-13k, plus install, and I can't see 7-8k for the install/tune. I have a built LS7 in my C5, and I had around 15k for the motor and tune. Last I knew, the LS3 was available for around $7,500.00, plus install......
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 324
From: Morristown, TN
Yeah I dont know where you came up with $20k either. You can find a drop out LS3 right now at AES Corvette parts for less than $8k shipped to you. Even if you had to use say a holley terminator x it would be leas than $10k with a $600 tune session. My forged stroker short block was $5k by itself. Then add heads, intake, cam, tb, and all the assorted parts that you need will put you close to 8-9k right there.
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,497
Likes: 7,179
From: CT
Might I ask, then, why the option of a used A@A kit for $3500 to make 8 to 10psi is not an option?
Additional suggested parts: swap bushings onto the rockers (this is standard on any build), upgrade the valve springs.
But the power is there and then some. The work to get it is minimal by comparison. The whole thing can be de-modded in an afternoon if you sell the car. You can make back your investment (minus tune and valve train parts) one hundred percent. And if heat is your concern for your events, then invest a bit more to upgrade your radiator and fans which you should do anyway.
Tame power under 3k, but oem fuel economy there also.
And if you want to sound meaner, add a cam for a few clams.
Additional suggested parts: swap bushings onto the rockers (this is standard on any build), upgrade the valve springs.
But the power is there and then some. The work to get it is minimal by comparison. The whole thing can be de-modded in an afternoon if you sell the car. You can make back your investment (minus tune and valve train parts) one hundred percent. And if heat is your concern for your events, then invest a bit more to upgrade your radiator and fans which you should do anyway.
Tame power under 3k, but oem fuel economy there also.
And if you want to sound meaner, add a cam for a few clams.
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 87
You can get close to 500 reliably but it's going to take ALL the bolt ons.
That's a lot of wrenching and time. If I had to start over from a bare bones engine, I'd be highly likely to just supercharge it and be done for a while.
That's a lot of wrenching and time. If I had to start over from a bare bones engine, I'd be highly likely to just supercharge it and be done for a while.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
You say you run NCCC events. If you are running track events, I'd do heads and cam. Stroker LS motors and LS3s really need dry sumps to be reliable on track.
Aftermarkets heads and a cam with upper 220s to 230 on the intake side work very nicely on track and with supporting mods 450-475rwhp realistically with a good torque curve to get around the track.
Aftermarkets heads and a cam with upper 220s to 230 on the intake side work very nicely on track and with supporting mods 450-475rwhp realistically with a good torque curve to get around the track.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,859
Likes: 4,658
It won't be too streetable with 500whp out of 346ci! That would be around 575 crank hp. But, one guys streetable is another guys radical, so....If he wants reliability AND be able to pass emissions, he'll never do it N/A.. FI, or Nitrous, is the only way on a 346.......
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 21
Likes: 3
From: Clover, SC
I just did a build on my LS1. Not cheap and really didnt mean to spend as much as I did.
383 stroker. Ended up with around $7k in it and dynoed at 425 RWHP and 440 lb Torque. (this is prolly on the low end)
Everthing new except rocker arms.
BTR stage 4 cam kit, 243 head upgrade, Eagle balanced forged rotating ***, Morel lifters, Melling hp oil pump, JP Performance timing set, ARP Bolts/head studs, Power Bond balancer etc...
Again I would not have done this had I have known the cost up front....one thing leads to another!
383 stroker. Ended up with around $7k in it and dynoed at 425 RWHP and 440 lb Torque. (this is prolly on the low end)
Everthing new except rocker arms.
BTR stage 4 cam kit, 243 head upgrade, Eagle balanced forged rotating ***, Morel lifters, Melling hp oil pump, JP Performance timing set, ARP Bolts/head studs, Power Bond balancer etc...
Again I would not have done this had I have known the cost up front....one thing leads to another!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 356
From: Northville, MI
If you are going to autocross NCCC, your best choices are Group 1 or Group 2, Group 1 is close to stock and you can be very competitive to you C4-C6 base engine cars and C5Z cars. Driving skills will be the one of the differences and level of preparation (car) is the other. For under $2K you can have the necessary suspension/tune/tire/alignment changes needed. For Group 2 you can change cams to a 2000 for 2H or Z06 for 2JK, headers/Hoosiers/suspension/tune/alignment. For an aftermarket cam you would be better with a C6Z set up for class. Read the rules and make your plans accordingly, HP seldom beats preparation in an autocross.
