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Tick master cylinder leaking

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Old Feb 11, 2021 | 10:12 PM
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Default Tick master cylinder leaking

Hi everyone
just wondering if anyone has every had a leaky tick master cylinder?
I have had mine on for abouts 3 years now and few miles on it and its leaking from the rubber boot.
Does anyone know what's the fix to this problem and why it's happening?

​​​​​​Thanks in advance
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Old Feb 12, 2021 | 01:41 AM
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I would suppose the temporary fix would be a rebuild kit, but unless you want to rebuild every three years, you need to find the cause of failure, which I can't guess. Most hydraulic seals fail from dirt, and the chevy parts are famous for getting the fluid black in no time, perhaps tick has a similar deal in the same application. Perhaps you just got a marginal seal that escaped quality control, , or maybe wasn't assembled correctly, and once rebuilt, will last as long as the OEM.

For general information, I went with a stock C6 master cylinder when I did my C5 clutch. A direct bolt on replacement, physically the body is a little bigger, but no functional differences. The filler cap is said to be improved over the C5 design, less moisture intrusion, I was told. Of course, it completely blows any chance of that first at pebble beach I was planning on down the road, once I get it washed.

another possibility is someone put in incorrect fluid that caused the seals to fail over time, either they expanded too much, or not enough. I had a guy ruin a transmission that took an odd ball fluid, and if your tick asks for a different fluid than stock, that might be it. One has to figure that in most shops repairing anything today, the guys who know how to do the work well are the supervisors, not the actual repairing person, because of the cost of labor.

Last edited by strand rider; Feb 12, 2021 at 01:43 AM.
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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 12:01 PM
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Moved to C5 Tech.
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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by strand rider
I would suppose the temporary fix would be a rebuild kit, but unless you want to rebuild every three years, you need to find the cause of failure, which I can't guess. Most hydraulic seals fail from dirt, and the chevy parts are famous for getting the fluid black in no time, perhaps tick has a similar deal in the same application. Perhaps you just got a marginal seal that escaped quality control, , or maybe wasn't assembled correctly, and once rebuilt, will last as long as the OEM.

For general information, I went with a stock C6 master cylinder when I did my C5 clutch. A direct bolt on replacement, physically the body is a little bigger, but no functional differences. The filler cap is said to be improved over the C5 design, less moisture intrusion, I was told. Of course, it completely blows any chance of that first at pebble beach I was planning on down the road, once I get it washed.

another possibility is someone put in incorrect fluid that caused the seals to fail over time, either they expanded too much, or not enough. I had a guy ruin a transmission that took an odd ball fluid, and if your tick asks for a different fluid than stock, that might be it. One has to figure that in most shops repairing anything today, the guys who know how to do the work well are the supervisors, not the actual repairing person, because of the cost of labor.
​​​​​​I Talked to Tilton and they said "I do not think a repair kit will solve your issue as the bore is most likely scored. The reason the master cylinder is leaking is related to the retrofit kit that Tick offers not being designed for proper pedal geometry and an uneven load being put onto a concentrated area of the master cylinder bore. We recommend that pushrod angularity be limited to 3 degrees during pedal stroke, but their design is putting far more angularity on the pushrod and causing a thrust load onto the piston and wearing the bore (and causing the low pressure seal to leak)."

I will order a new one but I hope this doesn't happen again.
I kept the fluid clean at all times and the angle was straight as well guess will never know.
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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim1991
Hi everyone
just wondering if anyone has every had a leaky tick master cylinder?
I have had mine on for abouts 3 years now and few miles on it and its leaking from the rubber boot.
Does anyone know what's the fix to this problem and why it's happening?

​​​​​​Thanks in advance
That's what happen to mine. Went back to stock and never will go with a tick MC again. Forgot how easy and nice the stock is compared to tick.
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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 03:07 PM
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A friend rebuilt his last year and hasn't had a problem since. The rebuild kit is inexpensive.
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Polo
A friend rebuilt his last year and hasn't had a problem since. The rebuild kit is inexpensive.
I ordered a replacement today. I hope this one last longer. 🤞
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Old Feb 17, 2021 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim1991
I ordered a replacement today. I hope this one last longer. 🤞
I would pay close attention to the angle of the rod when you reinstall. I had a leaking Tick, and noticed that the installation (by others) wasn't good in that regard. That tends to back up what the vendor said about causing damage to the cylinder. Good luck.
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Old Feb 17, 2021 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by frodo84
I would pay close attention to the angle of the rod when you reinstall. I had a leaking Tick, and noticed that the installation (by others) wasn't good in that regard. That tends to back up what the vendor said about causing damage to the cylinder. Good luck.
Got it thanks.
I will keep an eye on the rod angle when I put it back together
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Old Feb 17, 2021 | 10:22 PM
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mine was leaking, put the rebuild kit in, and still seeps... how does one determine the angle or non angle when standing on ones head to install, and how does one change the angle ?
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Old Feb 18, 2021 | 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
mine was leaking, put the rebuild kit in, and still seeps... how does one determine the angle or non angle when standing on ones head to install, and how does one change the angle ?
Originally Posted by Jim1991
We recommend that pushrod angularity be limited to 3 degrees during pedal stroke, but their design is putting far more angularity on the pushrod and causing a thrust load onto the piston and wearing the bore (and causing the low pressure seal to leak)."
Three degrees angularity through pedal travel isn't much to play with.
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Old Feb 18, 2021 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
mine was leaking, put the rebuild kit in, and still seeps... how does one determine the angle or non angle when standing on ones head to install, and how does one change the angle ?
I Don't really know yet. But I was planing to install the cylinder on the pedal assembly with the boot off and when compressed I should be able to see the distance to all 4 sides. And to adjust it I think I should be able to do that by unscrewing the 2 bolts that hold the cylinder and move around until I am happy with the position.
this is my plan so far, not sure if there is proper way of doing this though.

Originally Posted by frodo84
Three degrees angularity through pedal travel isn't much to play with.
Yes I know. But that's what the manufacturer recommended.
I will be eyeballing so will see I guess.
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Old Oct 11, 2025 | 06:05 PM
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i don t like bringing back old threads. .. but here we go again.. put the tick kit in 2021
4 yrs later, seeping again.. never did see anyone saying how to change the angle, and what
determines if the angle is off 3 deg.. it is hard to figure out standing on my head under there.
maybe just go back to stock like others and be done with it.
any input would be appreciated.
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Old Oct 12, 2025 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
i don t like bringing back old threads. .. but here we go again.. put the tick kit in 2021
4 yrs later, seeping again.. never did see anyone saying how to change the angle, and what
determines if the angle is off 3 deg.. it is hard to figure out standing on my head under there.
maybe just go back to stock like others and be done with it.
any input would be appreciated.
LOL, go back to stock and your problems are gone. But answering your question there is no way to change angle i thought that was my problem but sometimes it's just the part that's bad. Just like any other parts these days, hit or miss with quality.

Or you can open up the bolt holes to get some movement.
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Old Oct 13, 2025 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by helga203
LOL, go back to stock and your problems are gone. But answering your question there is no way to change angle i thought that was my problem but sometimes it's just the part that's bad. Just like any other parts these days, hit or miss with quality.

Or you can open up the bolt holes to get some movement.
thanks.. no am not opening the bolt holes, they are precise for a reason.
it was in the car when i purchased. 6 yrs ago.. and 4 yrs ago it seeps. did the rebuild kit and was fine. but the last few months i see the
master cyl down a bit.. crawl and see it seeping at the same place, where the boot is on the rod and connected to the fire wall..
not sure what to do.. maybe try one more rebuild kit..
thanks Helga for your input.
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Old Oct 13, 2025 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by walleyejack
thanks.. no am not opening the bolt holes, they are precise for a reason.
it was in the car when i purchased. 6 yrs ago.. and 4 yrs ago it seeps. did the rebuild kit and was fine. but the last few months i see the
master cyl down a bit.. crawl and see it seeping at the same place, where the boot is on the rod and connected to the fire wall..
not sure what to do.. maybe try one more rebuild kit..
thanks Helga for your input.
I had the same problem, First of all the pedal was just way to hard for me. I had about 10yrs. 25k miles on the clutch I wasn't going to pay that again so i went back to stock and man that was the best chance i took and it payed off. My leg is back to normal size as my right leg. If your worried about the stock holding an aftermarket clutch, ive been using twin with over 1kwhp. So don't worry about that. Just my experience. GL which everway you go. Tell you the truth many others had the same issues as us. So its a fitment issues or just the luck of the draw with quality. But i guess after 10yrs of daily driving mine was up from wear and tear.
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Old Oct 13, 2025 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by helga203
I had the same problem, First of all the pedal was just way to hard for me. I had about 10yrs. 25k miles on the clutch I wasn't going to pay that again so i went back to stock and man that was the best chance i took and it payed off. My leg is back to normal size as my right leg. If your worried about the stock holding an aftermarket clutch, ive been using twin with over 1kwhp. So don't worry about that. Just my experience. GL which everway you go. Tell you the truth many others had the same issues as us. So its a fitment issues or just the luck of the draw with quality. But i guess after 10yrs of daily driving mine was up from wear and tear.
If i ok back to stock, am not sure what is involved in doing that, i watched some YT and looks like folks taking the clutch pedal out
and drilling some holes in the bracket few other things. i m sure i just can t take the mc out and pop the oem one in. there must be more to it
i m thinking.. i should be able to retain the remote bleeder i think if i go OEM.
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Old Oct 14, 2025 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by helga203
LOL, go back to stock and your problems are gone. But answering your question there is no way to change angle i thought that was my problem but sometimes it's just the part that's bad. Just like any other parts these days, hit or miss with quality.

Or you can open up the bolt holes to get some movement.
+1 for this advice. Like you, my car had a Tick on it when I bought it and was leaking. I was going to rebuild or replace it, but figured out why it leaked (angle) and went with a stock MC and Monster twin clutch. It won't be difficult to go back to stock, I removed the Tick and popped the stock one in.
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Old Oct 14, 2025 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by frodo84
+1 for this advice. Like you, my car had a Tick on it when I bought it and was leaking. I was going to rebuild or replace it, but figured out why it leaked (angle) and went with a stock MC and Monster twin clutch. It won't be difficult to go back to stock, I removed the Tick and popped the stock one in.
Yup, just switched no issues. No, let me rephrase that. Leg shrank and i can say driving in stop go traffic heading to downtown chicago everyday was a peasant drive and not dreading it everyday.

P.S. When i went for the first time to put it in. gear i almost put the pedal through the floor. I thuoight i fuked up the install.
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Old Oct 14, 2025 | 07:50 PM
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dbl post sorry

Last edited by walleyejack; Oct 14, 2025 at 07:59 PM.
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