ARP crank bolt question
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From: Cape Cod, MA
2018 C5 of Year Finalist
ARP crank bolt question
I’ve already completed the project but i have a little question in the back of my mind. I just finished up replacing my harmonic balancer. There was conflicting info in the directions and just went with my gut. In the ATI directions they state to use red lock tite and torque to 240 ft lbs if using an ARP bolt. ARP instructions stated to lube all the threads and washer and bolt flanges with their lube and torque to 235 with no mention of lock tite. I’m not sweating the 5 ft lbs discrepancy but I didn’t see how it would make any sense to use red lock tite and lube at the same time. I just lubed it up and snugged. What do members think? I can’t imagine the bolt is gonna back off.
Last edited by lavaheadache; Feb 12, 2021 at 11:15 AM.
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From: South Hill Wa
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I've never used Loctite on the ARP bolt. I use their grease on the threads and a film of RTV on the washer.
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From: Cape Cod, MA
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Thanks for the reply. I didn’t bother with rtv. I have a pin in the slot and I’m guessing between that and the grease it was enough for them to not bother recommending rtv. The do state to use the lube on the bolt flange and the washer faces I’m of the mindset that with the lube in there it’ll just contaminate the rtv anyway ruin it’s properties.
Last edited by lavaheadache; Feb 12, 2021 at 12:24 PM.
Melting Slicks
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See a post I did last month on this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1602869749
ATI says to use RTV. Grease isn't a sealant by any stretch. But let us know if it seals well enough.
ATI says to use RTV. Grease isn't a sealant by any stretch. But let us know if it seals well enough.
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From: Cape Cod, MA
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I read. It seems as though you suggest that maybe their grease acts as a sealant. Yet here you suggest otherwise. I know what their instructions state as that’s what I followed. No pin use rtv, and if you pin there is no mention of rtv.
See a post I did last month on this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1602869749
ATI says to use RTV. Grease isn't a sealant by any stretch. But let us know if it seals well enough.
ATI says to use RTV. Grease isn't a sealant by any stretch. But let us know if it seals well enough.
Melting Slicks
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From: Orange County, CA
Let us know how yours turns out. I see where you're coming from, but I'm skeptical about not using RTV.
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I’ve already completed the project but i have a little question in the back of my mind. I just finished up replacing my harmonic balancer. There was conflicting info in the directions and just went with my gut. In the ATI directions they state to use red lock tite and torque to 240 ft lbs if using an ARP bolt. ARP instructions stated to lube all the threads and washer and bolt flanges with their lube and torque to 235 with no mention of lock tite. I’m not sweating the 5 ft lbs discrepancy but I didn’t see how it would make any sense to use red lock tite and lube at the same time. I just lubed it up and snugged. What do members think? I can’t imagine the bolt is gonna back off.
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I agree Jim. He should just call. Phones are still a great way to communicate. Emails sometimes go unnoticed. When phones ring, if you can't hear that, maybe you should be in a different line of work! Personally, I've never had a problem with the way I do it. I have an A4 car, so it makes a tough job a lot easier. Probably not for everybody, though.....
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From: Cape Cod, MA
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Guys, I did call call this morning right after I posted. ARP said that they don’t do lock tite with their bolt. Just grease her up and torque her down. I just wanted to know what forum members were doing with their cars and how things worked up for them. I live in the northeast and we are currently under heavy snow cover and salted roads so it’ll be a bit till I truly get to put it to the test but I did get the engine up to operating temps with a few revs and not a drop anywhere.
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Usually LS engines with a leaky crank bolt just weep. I think they rarely if ever get where they're flinging oil. I have always siliconed them and never a leak or any weeping.
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Some vibration damper manufacturers provide a method to drill a keyway and insert a key with their product. OEM has no keyway. From what I can tell, the typical OEM damper failure is the bond between the rubber damping layer and the inner rotating part and the outer belt sheave.
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Just throwing this out there If you can only toque down say 200 ft lbs dont freak out. I have IW CD and instruction said 140 lbs no grease no redtite. This was over 10yes ago 10rib pulley with procharger, over 1k hp. Just saying. I guess that's why there are anxiety pills.
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