You are right I’m sure it’s one problem that’s causing this huge headache and I’m going to check that again tomorrow, I also did find out other things that might be part of the problem! So this week I was able to remove the entire wiring harness as I suspect the PO must have lose hidden connectors like the CKP issue I found last month. Long story short I was able to find a ground not connected. After doing forum research I find it’s G105 which goes on the left lower engine block and I see it controls Fuel pump relay 35 and the engine oil switch!!!! (progress) I also found another connector which I could not find in the diagrams, it’s a 2 wire connector that is Green with a white stripe and a black wire. It’s roughly the same length from the harness as G105. I will be looking tomorrow for a missing connector. I will also install the original CKP sensor since the new offbrand threw the P0335 code. Check every ground to be connected properly and test light the injectors and relay 42. I am charging the battery full and Will keep you guys updated. Thank you all for contributing again.

 

Hi late post again but after doing some further testing today from PCM wires #2 for the CKP and #39 for the CAM sensor, with the key ON. I found out that Pin #39 (red wire) for the CAM is receiving a little under battery voltage (Battery is at 12.6v and PIN 39 is at 11.7v ) and the Pin #2 (LT Green wire) for the CKP is receiving 0.04 volts!. Now perhaps the sensor is bad I assumed. I removed the pigtail for the CKP sensor and did the test again with key ON and it STILL shows 0.04 volts unplugged!. I do have the original CKP sensor so I plug it in to the pigtail and still receive 0.04 volts. The LT Green wire does have continuity to Pin #2 but I am stuck at this point. Why for the B+ supply is getting such low voltage? I checked the YEL/BLK ground wire and it also reads 0.04v , as well as the BL/BLK wire for the signal wire reads 0.04v . Please any input is appreciated it, I believe this is the reason why i have crank but no spark.

 

Ok, both 12 volt references (pins 2 and 39) for cam and crank sensor are shared within the PCM...have you checked both 12 volt refs AT the PCM and not at the connector ??..if not will will have to do that and back probe both...you may have corrosion at the PCM connector...you will have to remove it and check for corrosion or bent pins...I helped a member a few years ago and he was getting low voltage on BOTH 12 volt feeds...he was getting a little over 2 volts...I had him remove the connector off the cam sensor and the 12 volt feed returned on both pins at the PCM...cam sensor was shorting out the feed wires !!...his video below !!

 

YES! I was actually looking at this video last night. I did do exactly what he did at PCM Pins #2 and #39 and for 39 which is the CAM sensor I was receiving 11.7v (my battery was showing 12.6) now at pin #2 for the CKP it was showing 0.04v , then I unplugged the pig tail and hoped to see Battery voltage but it was still showing 0.04 . I even plugged back the original CKP sensor and it still showed 0.04 at the PCM Pin AND the connector. It also showed 0.04 for the ground AND signal wire. So could corrosion and/or a bent pin be a culprit? I’m hoping it’s not the PCM. Also thank you

 

Like I said you have to go to the PCM where this 12 volts comes from and back probe it there (pictured)...if it’s still showing low voltage just pull off the entire connector and see what it looks like...just make certain you’re checking the correct pin !!...always a good idea to check all the PCM power and grounds !!

 

Yes I did backprobe just like that to Pin #2 (light green CKP) which showed 0.04v with key ON and Pin #39 (red Cam) showed 11.70v with key ON. I pulled the connector out and took the cover off to make sure I was probing the correct wire (like in the picture) but I did NOT check the connector itself from the front end or the PCM to see how it looks like, I will check it tomorrow morning and report the findings! Again thank you for your help it really helps!

 

SIR 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 FIRST I want to say thank you so much. You’re the hero of this forum THANK YOU so much. If you are ever in Vegas I’ll buy you a drink sir 🍺! It turns out that indeed Pin #1 #2 #40 and #41 were BENT. Thank fully it was an easy repair and they did not break off. I purchased this car non running and thanks to you and everyone who also helped in the Interior wiring posts and troubleshooting are the reason for this car to no bet junked you the po. Again thank you guys. The car starts right up now and has a slight misfire P0200


is the only current code. But for now it’s celebration time boys

 

SUPER !!...WOW !!...looks like some bent pins there...glad I was able to help and if you need help with the P0300 let us know !!

 

Again thank you C5 Diag! after a few days the car starts up every time. Now in the first day it would idle and fluctuate between 700-1000RPM and on a few start cycles it would stall after trying to drop to 700 rpm. Now yesterday and today after starting it and taking it for a drive to the gas station I can tell its running a little rough, it does not stall anymore and idles at 700~ RPM every time now, but I feel it has a misfire and the only code I have is P0200 and is Current. I looked around the threads but I can seem to find one that replicates my problem, since almost all threads mention P0300 included, I only have P0200. Now keep in mind I installed the entire harness and with the wiring diagrams reconnected the wires the previous owner had cut when removing the wiring harness from the engine and Prefuse Underhood Box. I trust the wiring I did is correct since I used the diagram for the same year and did continuity tests to make sure each wire from A-F 1-12 matched the PCM and connectors respectively. How can I diagnose P0200? from my understanding it has to do with the injector circuit, I made sure that the harness is not touching the fuel line and rail either, I wiggled the connectors while the car idling to see if it improved the misfire to no avail. Again any guidance on diagnosing this i heavily appreciated it. Thank you!

 

I don't know if you could use a temp laser tool to each cylinder on the Ex manifold to see which cylinder has the lowest temp. That's how i find the bad cylinder and diagnosis from there. Saves me a lot of time. If i read this right.

 

It's strange that a faulty injector circuit would not throw a P0300. If you don't see a random misfire it's easy enough just to probe each pink wire on the injector connector key on...you should see 12 volts...since the injector is ground side switched (the PCM grounds the injector to make it work) and now with the test light now connected to battery POSITIVE see if the other injector wire (striped wire) blinks when the engine is running probing that striped wire...if you have a scan tool you should be able to see if you have any misfires...you can also check the resistance of each injector...should be 11-14 ohms !!

 

Even if the injector get voltage pulses , the injector(s) may not operate properly
It may stuck closed or open/partly open
Here is how the current rise on an opening injector . The hump is due to the injector needle movement (pintle hump)




If you put a gauge on the schraeder valve and perform a fuel balance test with a scantool and record the pressure drop from each injector during the test .
An injector valve opening differently from the other injector will cause a pressure drop different from the other .
As far as I know a difference on more then 1.5 psi from average pressure drop should intiate a injector replacement

Here is a screen video of a fuel injector balance test I did on my car last year .

 

what's the sensor behind the alternator,r ight next to the spark plug. I broke it tightening a loose spark plug and I can't figure what it is.

 

Engine Coolant Temp sensor !!