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I have the following c1232, 1233,1248,1283 were only codes. Been chasing this for 6 months. Followed all the threads here and checked the wiring and connectors, replaced both short pigtails to the ft wheels , readings volts and ohms correct all way to ebcm . I pulled ebcm and soldered several areas that looked questionable including the 5 shown on videos.
still no luck!!! Has anyone ever chased this issue this far and found a solution??? All the vet owners on here surley someone has some help.
man could I use some help. Don’t want to I lease a dealer on it and empty the bank .
What about the sensors themselves ??...have you done anything in regards to those ??...also a good idea to do a “wiggle” test on the wiring too !!..you should see 5 volts on one the wires from the EBCM to the wheel sensor...I’d check that as you wiggle that harness !!
My fixed for wheel sensor codes is the female pin within the connector, the female pin spring tension has weaken over the years. They need to be disassembled and carefully bent to provide more tension. If you check the wiring statically with a meter it will probably be ok... but on the road it’s more dynamic, when the car hits a bump you may lose contact for a brief moment.... then you get the wheel sensor codes. I did this about 8 years ago and still no problems... I would disassemble the wire harness connectors. Use a small thin hard wire or pin...there is a tool for it to release the lock on each pin from the front then slide it out with the wire from behind.
Removed all connections and checked , cleaned all pins. Pulled ebcm and did the solder on the 5 points that are suggested here and in videos I’ve watched.
cleared codes and soon as I moved car the codes reset as always.
any chance I have a bad ebcm? Havnt see This as a fix for this issue here or anywhere online.
I have ran out of options but want to avoid dealership shop as I know where that will likely end.... sensors , wheel bearings and then likely a new ebcm?
I want to sell this car when I get it repaired but may just have to sell it with the issue....
Guess no one here has ever solved my issue outside loose or bad connections???
there is nothing left as I replaced both ft wheel sensors and both harnesses all way to ebcm..... still trips both fr wheel sensor codes soon as car rolls forward ........ gotta be ebcm but I have yet to find anyone in here to come to that conclusion?
I found one and have ordered for $1500. Guess after this she is for sale reguardless
Last year my front left sensor would throw a code if I hit a bump just right. C1232 I think.
I had some other brake work planned and so I replaced the front wheel bearings (sensors built in) and that's what did it.
So me it sounds the the abs/ebcm module could be bad. If I'm remembering correctly this is a relatively common failure. Cracks in the solder (which reflowing like you did would've fixed) are one issue, but also the capacitors within the box begin to rupture with use and age.
I've heard of someone specc-ing out new capacitors and soldering them in on the cheap.
You likely can see the wheel speed sensor outputs on a scan tool with OEM live data or a tech II. Testing connections and sensors only does so much. Hard to deem an EBCM from sensor codes and a couple continuity checks. With how expensive those have gotten, I recommend keeping the one you ordered and having the car professionally checked first. If they come to the same conclusion as you, then tell them you have one to try. It'd be a shame to replace an EBCM when all you need is a sensor or a wheel bearing.
With that in mind, yes it is absolutely possible to have sensor codes from a failed EBCM. I have had that happen. The code was very specific in that it set only at a certain speed. The EBCM operated normally otherwise. I replaced it after checking the signal with a scope, but a scan tool is likely more relevant since there could be a pin fitment issue anywhere, including at the EBCM plug, which it sounds like you've messed with plenty.
Well after three months of checking all wiring, grounds, connectors and following all advice here I could find nothing wrong with the physical system. Everything in my mind lead to ebcm but folks here kept questioning that and because they are so hard to find and expensive I kept looking. Also pulled the ebcm and did the solder repair but no luck. Finally broke down and found a guy who had an ebcm that was completely rebuilt with new circuit board so I spent the $1600 and guess what…….. it too care of everything !!!!!!! No codes all systems work great and yesterday I took a four hour road trip with all systems go!! How refreshing and a lesson to listen to my gut when I have followed all common sense and technical troubleshooting. Everything kept pointing to the ebcm but all the questioning kept having me look at things that likely had no issue or bearing.
learned a lot about my ride during the process so as always our efforts aren’t futile….
thanks for all the guidance here that was helpful in leading me through the system and learning how everything in this system works!!
now on to replacing headlight motor gears and driver side window operators and this 2002 black coupe with 26k miles can return to my weekend therapy!!!