When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 1997 C5 (non ZO6) clutch suddenly stopped disengaging, i have removed the inspection plate and all the hydraulics and cylinders seem to operate perfectly and the clutch appears to disengage from fine with a gap that i can get a razorblade between, but in neutral the clutch wont spin freely at all, it rocks back and fourth about 3 mm but will not spin. the clutch, slave and throw-out bearing was done by a mechanic for the previous owner about 9 months ago. when the car is running it wont go into gear with the clutch down, it just hits the gear.
I'm complexly lost for ideas the whole system looks to be working fine but it wont properly disengage despite there being a gap when the clutch is pressed down, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
So with your tests the slave should be working correctly, right ? My slave went out and I couldn't disengage the clutch anymore, happened all of a sudden one startup.
my best bet is replacing this bearing, its the only thing it could be, time to rip the poor girl to pieces. did you have much trouble with the job?
i went real slow. 8 hrs to re and re. Plus 2 hrs to carefully saw out the outer part of the bearing from the crank as that was all that was left from the bearing. I drove it like that from north vancouver to san sydro CA and back. It would only shift gears near idle.
to start try replacing the master cylinder. Its cheap at napa and easy to replace
Bit of pain to try, but if you lift the rear wheels off the ground, and leave the tranny in gear, with the engine off and the clutch disengaged you could try to rotate the disc by rotating the rear wheels. Just a way to get more torque on the disc to see how badly bound up it is.
It reads as though you have the disc loose from the flywheel with the pedal depressed? That would -- as you noted -- indicate the hydraulics are good. I suppose a misaligned release bearing could only partially release the disc -- the bad news is you are pretty much looking at dropping the tube. fun fun
Bit of pain to try, but if you lift the rear wheels off the ground, and leave the tranny in gear, with the engine off and the clutch disengaged you could try to rotate the disc by rotating the rear wheels. Just a way to get more torque on the disc to see how badly bound up it is.
It reads as though you have the disc loose from the flywheel with the pedal depressed? That would -- as you noted -- indicate the hydraulics are good. I suppose a misaligned release bearing could only partially release the disc -- the bad news is you are pretty much looking at dropping the tube. fun fun
yes i have tried this experiment and there is no movement other then the backlash, clutch wont spin. so yeah its all coming out, at least i have a pretty good idea on what the issue is.
yes i have tried this experiment and there is no movement other then the backlash, clutch wont spin. so yeah its all coming out, at least i have a pretty good idea on what the issue is.
yes i have tried this experiment and there is no movement other then the backlash, clutch wont spin. so yeah its all coming out, at least i have a pretty good idea on what the issue is.
Do please report back with the findings. Always frustrating not to hear how things turn out.
Do please report back with the findings. Always frustrating not to hear how things turn out.
so far everything from the front of the torque tube back is disconnected and lowered. but the thing will not budge, levering off the bell housing but can see it flexing and absolutely don't want to crack it, trying to figure out a means of pulling the shaft out without damaging the bell housing. the shaft must be proper stuck to the bearing.
so far everything from the front of the torque tube back is disconnected and lowered. but the thing will not budge, levering off the bell housing but can see it flexing and absolutely don't want to crack it, trying to figure out a means of pulling the shaft out without damaging the bell housing. the shaft must be proper stuck to the bearing.
do u have trans and diff off?? If not u have to have the perfect angle. R u using a jack under the engine??
the chance of breaing stuck is very unlikely but it happens.
Last edited by helga203; Apr 12, 2021 at 10:23 AM.
do u have trans and diff off?? If not u have to have the perfect angle. R u using a jack under the engine??
the chance of breaing stuck is very unlikely but it happens.
yes i actually removed subframe to make things easier, had 3 jacks total one under engine, one under trans. and one under the TT.
for those of you interested i managed to remove the input shaft from the bearing, ended up dropping the subframe to make things easier, i had three jacks total to perfectly align everything but it wouldn't move until i chain blocked it from a truck and wacked the chain, this was slowly successful i tried all angles and tried to get it as straight as i could but it was definitely jammed in the bearing. as you can see in photo the bearing was completely destroyed. my theory is since i was driving at literally less than 1mph when the bearing gave out it just jammed up on itself instead of being ripped up like it would if i had some speed. the input shaft itself is actually got some good bite marks and scoring from the bearing rollers.
having trouble with getting the bearing out at the moment but i will try a few different slide hammer attachment's. not sure if the input shaft will need any attention, and still not sure why the bearing even failed. I've seen some people putting bushings instead of bearings does anyone have any advice/suggestions that would be much appreciated. thanks for your guys help so far it has been a stressful job since i
Last edited by Californiadreaming464; Oct 21, 2022 at 05:24 PM.
I'll bet the mechanic that replaced the parts 9 months ago didn't have it aligned properly when he put it back together and f****d that bearing up. Dont draw the torque tube into the bell housing with the bolts. It has to be perfectly aligned to slide in
I'll bet the mechanic that replaced the parts 9 months ago didn't have it aligned properly when he put it back together and f****d that bearing up. Dont draw the torque tube into the bell housing with the bolts. It has to be perfectly aligned to slide in
I would check the input shaft carefully for runout. If he jacked it into the bearing I hope the shaft isn't bent. Good luck, keep posting!
EDIT: When you put it back together, stab the torque tube alone, then put the trans assembly on after.
I'll bet the mechanic that replaced the parts 9 months ago didn't have it aligned properly when he put it back together and f****d that bearing up. Dont draw the torque tube into the bell housing with the bolts. It has to be perfectly aligned to slide in