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TICK Clutch Master Cylinder Fix

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Old Apr 12, 2021 | 10:06 PM
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Default TICK Clutch Master Cylinder Fix

Hi all:

I just spent 2 days installing a TICK Master Cylinder in my 1999 C5 and wanted to let everyone know that the results are fantastic!

I had the common issue with it being difficult to shift into 1st and reverse. Worse yet was that when accelerating hard I had to wait forever to make the 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shift. The transmission is in very good condition (rebuilt by the ZF Doc in Phoenix < 10,000 miles ago... he also installed a new slave cylinder and remote bleeder and I have been religious about keeping the clutch system flushed) and it has a practically new SPEC stage 2 clutch and light flywheel. Never-the-less I was experiencing these issues recently.

I installed the TICK Tilton clutch master cylinder, adjusted it per the directions and viola, it shifts like "butta" now and easily goes into 1st and reverse and no more waiting to shift when under hard acceleration! So if anyone has been experiencing these issues or simply wishes to improve the shifting of their car I can highly recommend the "TICK fix".

FYI, getting the quick, disconnect to separate is a bit tricky (I suggest buying the longer tool from NAPA). I can offer some suggestions if interested.

Best regards!





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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 03:59 PM
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Hey I installed this MC a couple months back, I think there's a bit of an air gap around the MC and the hole in the firewall since it mounts different from factory.

Did you happen to notice that? It's been letting in some extra valve train noise ever since.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 04:06 PM
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Damnit, and here I was convinced that the Tick was a waste of time but I have your exact symptoms too (2001 Z06, 36k miles).... 1st/Reverse tough to shift into and I've noticed at high RPM (5k) I can't shift into 5th... although maybe that is a separate issue.

Maybe its time to reconsider...
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by monarch
Damnit, and here I was convinced that the Tick was a waste of time but I have your exact symptoms too (2001 Z06, 36k miles).... 1st/Reverse tough to shift into and I've noticed at high RPM (5k) I can't shift into 5th... although maybe that is a separate issue.

Maybe its time to reconsider...
Well... the Tick is worth a shot, but I had 1st/reverse problems that ultimately required a trans rebuild. This was my progress thread for my issues: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...verse-1st.html
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Old Apr 15, 2021 | 10:54 PM
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have the Tick in my 02Z put a rebuild kit in it, and now it won t tighten to the firewall, just a little sloppy in there, the bolts are tight and the holes in the mc are not blind holes, so i can t figure it out.
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Old Apr 21, 2021 | 05:52 PM
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Hi all: Sorry for the delay in responding. Been busy with a bunch of things.

Multivac: Yes, since the TICK/Tilton MC is different shape than the OEM unit the rubber grommet/donut does not fit well so there is a gap. If that becomes an issue I suppose I could fabricate something or try and seal it with some silicone. I personally haven't noticed a difference in ambient noise coming in from the engine compartment.

Monarch: As I said the difference in my situation was night and day. The shifting issues went away. I think if your tranny, clutch and slave cylinder are in good shape that you would see similar results.

MetalMan2: I too had my tranny rebuilt several years ago but the shifting issues are more related to the inability of the OEM MC to fully disengage the clutch. The TICK solved this problem in my case.

WalleyeJack: The TICK unit is not supposed to come flush against the firewall. It bolts to the metal bracket which positions it properly. If you reattached it properly to the bracket (remember that you must drill a couple of holes in the bracket using the template they supply to affix the TICK to the bracket.and properly reinstalled the bracket and tightened all the nuts (they are a B to get back in) then you should be good.

Let me know if I can ask any other questions.

Best regards!
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Old Apr 21, 2021 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TBRAUNSKI
Hi all: Sorry for the delay in responding. Been busy.

WalleyeJack: The TICK unit is not supposed to come flush against the firewall. It bolts to the metal bracket which positions it properly. If you reattached it properly to the bracket (remember that you must drill a couple of holes in the bracket using the template they supply to affix the TICK to the bracket.and properly reinstalled the bracket and tightened all the nuts (they are a B to get back in) then you should be good.

Let me know if I can ask any other questions.

Best regards!
My car already had it installed, it was hard to get out was tighter than a.....
i took it out to put a rebuild kit in that was dripping slightly, i should have left it alone.cannot get it tight for some reason, maybe i will shim the bolts out a bou.
..
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Old Apr 21, 2021 | 06:11 PM
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Thanks for your input sir.
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 07:49 AM
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Hi Walleyjack:. Great handle BTW! I love eating walley! Agreed that it's tough getting that bracket which holds the MC back in place and especially getting the nuts back on to the studs! Re the looseness, I tightened the MC to the metal bracket first while it was out of the car an the installed that assembly back into the car and as I said that's tricky but with patience it worked. Once I got the nuts back on and tight it was nice and solid. I just followed the TICK instructions. If you want to discuss send me you # in a PM. Good luck!
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 07:51 AM
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PS, I took my drivers seat out to make it easier!
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 12:07 PM
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Wow replacing a bad master cylinder fixes the symptoms!
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 04:16 PM
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Replacing the OEM with a TICK did in my case. I don't think my OEM MC was "Bad"/malfunctioning. I do believe it was the original unit so may not have been quite as good as new seeing as it was 20 years old. The TICK displaces more fluid (bigger diameter piston) so has the ability to move the slave piston/clutch further than an OEM resulting in fully disengaging the transmission from the flywheel during a shift The OEM does not, hence the shifting issues. From what I understand the OEM barely is up to the job and the TICK is more than capable. In fact they warn you about adjusting in too much travel as that can damage the clutch so you follow the adjustment process to get it dialed in correctly. This all assumes of course that you have a good transmission, a good slave cylinder and a good clutch in the first place.
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TBRAUNSKI
Hi Walleyjack:. Great handle BTW! I love eating walley! Agreed that it's tough getting that bracket which holds the MC back in place and especially getting the nuts back on to the studs! Re the looseness, I tightened the MC to the metal bracket first while it was out of the car an the installed that assembly back into the car and as I said that's tricky but with patience it worked. Once I got the nuts back on and tight it was nice and solid. I just followed the TICK instructions. If you want to discuss send me you # in a PM. Good luck!
sent you a pm
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 05:29 PM
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If the OEM one wasn't working then it was bad. Your slave cylinder is probably not far behind.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 12:18 PM
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For the guys having a loose mounting issue the mount holes needs to be drilled out a certain way there’s a bump on the lower middle ish of the bracket that requires drilling out just be careful what size bits your using I think I worked it up to a 7/8 bit mounted greats and flush after
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TBRAUNSKI
Replacing the OEM with a TICK did in my case. I don't think my OEM MC was "Bad"/malfunctioning. I do believe it was the original unit so may not have been quite as good as new seeing as it was 20 years old. The TICK displaces more fluid (bigger diameter piston) so has the ability to move the slave piston/clutch further than an OEM resulting in fully disengaging the transmission from the flywheel during a shift The OEM does not, hence the shifting issues. From what I understand the OEM barely is up to the job and the TICK is more than capable. In fact they warn you about adjusting in too much travel as that can damage the clutch so you follow the adjustment process to get it dialed in correctly. This all assumes of course that you have a good transmission, a good slave cylinder and a good clutch in the first place.
OEM not up for the job. Had a tick for 10yrs started leaking so I thought this would be a good time to go back to oem. Best mod I did on my over 1000hp close to 30lbs boost. I think OEM is up for any task u throw at it. And my leg is back to normal size. 🙃
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 01:36 PM
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They do have a lifetime warranty so if they ever fail in anyway you will get a new one just as a refresher.

Last edited by Speedy007; Apr 23, 2021 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedy007
For the guys having a loose mounting issue the mount holes needs to be drilled out a certain way there’s a bump on the lower middle ish of the bracket that requires drilling out just be careful what size bits your using I think I worked it up to a 7/8 bit mounted greats and flush after
yea. figured it out.. mine had it in, i took it out to put a rebuild kit in it. thought i would just put it back through the firewall and bolt it up.
Not quite that simple, need to take the bracket off on the inside and bolt it on and then install.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 01:11 PM
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is there a trick to get the reservoir off the Tilton ? i need to remove it, because i m sure it won t go through the firewall to allow me to
fasten the mc to the clutch bracket. It was a bit of a pain to get the nuts off to remove the pedal, not sure how im getting them back on
because you not getting your fingers up there.
thanks Al
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 04:04 PM
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it should pry up with a flat head or plastic pry tools would be a safer bet...I’ve gotten mine off before without breakage !
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