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Possible BCM went bad?

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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 10:57 AM
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Default Possible BCM went bad?

Hey Corvette veterans,

I have had some intermittent starting issues with my 2002 auto C5. Usually when I go to drive the car for the first time of the day, I may crank the key and does not start up, from what I can hear there are no clicks, revving up--really any sounds that it should normally make when starting up. To turn it on, I may have to crank the key repeatedly for up to a minute for it to finally start up. All of the lights, radio, etc works, but when it comes to starting the car, it will not start up unless I crank it repeatedly. Occasionally when I put the key into the ignition, all the lights on the dash will flicker, and after they flicker it won't happen again. There was also another time it started up and the engine cut off right after the car started, and another time (recently), the engine shut off as I was pulling out of the gas station.

We installed a new battery and ignition switch, neither of those fixed the issue. We checked the starter and it seemed to be working perfectly. This issue has been more prominent as time went on--first only happening every other week or so, and now almost every time I start the car for the first time of the day.

I pulled the codes using the cars diagnostics and found 5 different codes (and looked up a description of the codes), these are the codes present--will also include if they are H (History) or C (Current):

B1542 - Oil Temp Circuit Short to GND - H
U1160 - Loss of communication with LDCM - H
B2265 - Horizontal position sensor fault DCM-R - H
C2115 - Left rear TPM sensor malfunction - H C (I have known about this, should be irrelevant)
U1064 - Loss of communications with the BCM (No state of health message)

All signs point to replacing the BCM, but I'm hoping some of you corvette veterans would be able to help me troubleshoot any other possible issues, as well as give me a good idea of where to start. Any suggestions/advice is welcome, as I am a first time corvette owner!

Thank you in advance!!
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 11:47 AM
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Please clarify what happens when you first turn the key to the start position, does the engine turn over "crank", or does it not do anything, and you have to repeatedly turn the key to the start position, to get it to crank over, or does it crank over but fails to fire up?
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 01:33 PM
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I can turn the key to the accessory position, which allows all of the radio, windows, lights, etc, to turn on, but when I actually go to start it, nothing will happen. When this happens, I have to repeatedly turn the key from acc. to "starting" it, where it won't "crank" until after so many times I turn the key to start it, the car will actually start.

Only once has the engine cut off after its cranked and started up, and I assume that issue is related.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 01:48 PM
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Can't be the Ignition switch, since you have replaced it, so the car is a auto, have you tried shifting it in and out of park, it could be the safety switch. Can you hear a relay clicking in the passenger footwell area, this is where the TDR "theft deterant relay" resides. The TDR is the relay that sends power to energize the starter, it is located on top of the BCM
You should hear the TDR click on every time you turn the key to the start position, hope this helps.
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Old Apr 14, 2021 | 02:55 PM
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I will try and listen for a click and report it back here.

I appreciate the guidance.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jsquillaci
I will try and listen for a click and report it back here.

I appreciate the guidance.
what did you find out? My 2000 is doing the exact same thing. Thanks
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by c5golfguy
what did you find out? My 2000 is doing the exact same thing. Thanks
Helped someone a few weeks ago who said his dash lights looked like a disco…I had him do a couple quick checks and we verified it was indeed his ignition switch…turn the key on and select battery volts on the DIC…see what it reads when trying to start the car…if you see 7-8 volts like I did when my switch failed a few years ago that is what I saw !!
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Helped someone a few weeks ago who said his dash lights looked like a disco…I had him do a couple quick checks and we verified it was indeed his ignition switch…turn the key on and select battery volts on the DIC…see what it reads when trying to start the car…if you see 7-8 volts like I did when my switch failed a few years ago that is what I saw !!
12v dead nuts on. When I turn the key to "on", its all dead. Then when I turn the key to "start/run" and hold it, it will all come to life. I also get a ton of clicks. I cant tell where the clicks are coming from. Sounds like starter solenoid or a relay. Its got a new starter in it and the wires looked to be good when I swapped it. Then security light flashes and chimes go dinging. No codes under 10 or 40(bcm, I think its 40). Ive noticed the car would die randomly when i turn the left blinker on or the right blinker on. Its randomly died when I turned the air on. Its randomly died when turning hazards on too. It always fires back up but I mainly drive the car on the track and these issues can not be happening on the road course.

I also have taken apart the ignition switch and its only about a year and half old. It did not have any corrosion in it. I recently tried buying another one and swapping it to throw parts at it, ( I got a great gm parts guy locally that works with me), and the car wouldnt fire over at all. I got nothing. I put the ignition switch back in the car which I have right now in it, and it fired right over. Its the craziest thing

Any ideas on where to start probing and etc?

Last edited by c5golfguy; Oct 10, 2021 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by c5golfguy
12v dead nuts on. When I turn the key to "on", its all dead. Then when I turn the key to "start/run" and hold it, it will all come to life. I also get a ton of clicks. I cant tell where the clicks are coming from. Sounds like starter solenoid or a relay. Its got a new starter in it and the wires looked to be good when I swapped it. Then security light flashes and chimes go dinging. No codes under 10 or 40(bcm, I think its 40). Ive noticed the car would die randomly when i turn the left blinker on or the right blinker on. Its randomly died when I turned the air on. Its randomly died when turning hazards on too. It always fires back up but I mainly drive the car on the track and these issues can not be happening on the road course.

I also have taken apart the ignition switch and its only about a year and half old. It did not have any corrosion in it. I recently tried buying another one and swapping it to throw parts at it, ( I got a great gm parts guy locally that works with me), and the car wouldnt fire over at all. I got nothing. I put the ignition switch back in the car which I have right now in it, and it fired right over. Its the craziest thing

Any ideas on where to start probing and etc?
Do you have and know how to use a multimeter ??
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Do you have and know how to use a multimeter ??
Yes sir. I sure do
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Old Oct 10, 2021 | 11:38 PM
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With nothing happening when you try to start the car along with your “No Comm” with the BCM let’s take a look at the circuit that feeds the BCM when the key is in “On or Start”…there are 4 main circuits that feed the cars electrical system…a pink, brown, orange, and yellow wire…power for the BCM gets powered from a few circuits…the pink, brown, and orange wire…the pink wire feeds the BCM in “On or Start”…let’s check the voltage “voltage drop” across the ignition switch…one lead of your multimeter on battery POSITIVE” and the other lead on BCM fuse #13 (either metal test point on top of the fuse) in the IP box…don’t worry about which lead goes where just look at the number…turn key ON and see what voltage you see and then try it cranking the engine over even if nothing happens…you should see about .2 volts or so…if you see 8 volts that means you are dropping 8 volts across the ignition switch with only 4 volts getting to that component…see what you have !!…did you use an OEM ignition switch or aftermarket…stick with AC Delco !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; Oct 10, 2021 at 11:47 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
With nothing happening when you try to start the car along with your “No Comm” with the BCM let’s take a look at the circuit that feeds the BCM when the key is in “On or Start”…there are 4 main circuits that feed the cars electrical system…a pink, brown, orange, and yellow wire…power for the BCM gets powered from a few circuits…the pink, brown, and orange wire…the pink wire feeds the BCM in “On or Start”…let’s check the voltage “voltage drop” across the ignition switch…one lead of your multimeter on battery POSITIVE” and the other lead on BCM fuse #13 (either metal test point on top of the fuse) in the IP box…don’t worry about which lead goes where just look at the number…turn key ON and see what voltage you see and then try it cranking the engine over even if nothing happens…you should see about .2 volts or so…if you see 8 volts that means you are dropping 8 volts across the ignition switch with only 4 volts getting to that component…see what you have !!…did you use an OEM ignition switch or aftermarket…stick with AC Delco !!
Rob, Thanks for the reply. Just getting back in front of the computer. Ill try and get to this tomorrow or Wednesday at the latest. Im using an AC Delco switch too.
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Old Jul 20, 2025 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by c5golfguy
Rob, Thanks for the reply. Just getting back in front of the computer. Ill try and get to this tomorrow or Wednesday at the latest. Im using an AC Delco switch too.
so what did it end up being wrong because I have same issue
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Old Jul 20, 2025 | 10:40 AM
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I would be surprised if you get any replies as this is a four year old thread. Open a new thread and list year and model as well as transmission type, and state what the car does or doesn't do.
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Old Oct 31, 2025 | 02:32 PM
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Accident
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