Gauge cluster no power after ignition switch replace
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 2
From: New Castle, DE
Gauge cluster no power after ignition switch replace
help. just changed my ignition switch. during old switch removal, i caused a spark-to-ground to happen, which SEEMS like it only burned my 60A IGN maxifuse in the footwell, which is now new. all other fuses look ok. problem is, when i turn the key to ON, the usual instrument panel cluster gauges stepper motor needles-to-max-then-to-zero-then-to-normal function automatic "self-test" doesn't happen anymore, but the fuel pump does power up. i also lost my power windows and radio. i'm pretty sure i caused the problem because i should have disconnected the neg. cable before the job. it starts fine, but the whole cluster is blank, including the DIC. if fuses seem ok, does anybody know if maybe a relay is faulty (or what?). no dtc's kicked out. thanks to you all.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Hilton NY
Try disconnecting the battery cables from the battery and then touch them together for a minute then reconnect them to the battery and see if that restores the problem circuits.
Last edited by Fast one; Apr 25, 2021 at 03:16 PM.
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Moderator, Tech Contributor
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
IMHO a “cap discharge” as it’s called isn’t going to fix this problem...normally just for the PCM !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; Apr 25, 2021 at 04:02 PM.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
help. just changed my ignition switch. during old switch removal, i caused a spark-to-ground to happen, which SEEMS like it only burned my 60A IGN maxifuse in the footwell, which is now new. all other fuses look ok. problem is, when i turn the key to ON, the usual instrument panel cluster gauges stepper motor needles-to-max-then-to-zero-then-to-normal function automatic "self-test" doesn't happen anymore, but the fuel pump does power up. i also lost my power windows and radio. i'm pretty sure i caused the problem because i should have disconnected the neg. cable before the job. it starts fine, but the whole cluster is blank, including the DIC. if fuses seem ok, does anybody know if maybe a relay is faulty (or what?). no dtc's kicked out. thanks to you all.
I’d say your IPC is “nuked” !!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 2
From: New Castle, DE
thanks c5 diag-- taking the time to help means a lot to us posters-- only thing about maybe the ipc is nuked might not splain why i lost the pwr winders and the radio.
i'm going outside to git er done (i hope)
i'm going outside to git er done (i hope)
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 2
From: New Castle, DE
thanks for taking the time to help, Fast one-- i've seen this "fix" a lot on the "tube"-- scotty kilmer has his own way of doin it. having my 3 different problems all at once is the complicating factor-- esp. why no radio even though the fuse is ok. i'm going out on this b-u-t-ful day and give it a try. i'll keep u posted.
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
The radio, IPC, and both door modules are fed from the same ORANGE wire coming out of the ignition switch...what do you mean by “all other fuses LOOK OK” ??...did you check with a 12 volt test light ??...I’d pull that 60 amp fuse and see if you have power to at least 1 terminal with key ON !!...for the 2 door modules you should check fuses 33,34, 30 and 31 in the IP fuse box...radio is fuse 5....IPC is fuse 25 !!..like I said even if the fuse is good see if you have at least power going to one of the fuse terminals key ON !!...also see if IGN2 fuse 60 amp (probably the one that blew) is being fed power from B+.
Last edited by C5 Diag; Apr 26, 2021 at 08:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 2
From: New Castle, DE
thanks to you all for taking the time to help.
on behalf of the seller of the switch i bought on amazon, i offer my apologies.
on a hunch, as a hedge, after the problem surfaced, i ordered the exact same chinese switch from summit (albeit for $25 more). yesterday, much to my amazement, when i substituted the new summit switch, the problem resolved itself. i suppose the amazon switch wasn't sending power thru the orange wire to the ipc, pwr wnd modules, or radio.
i hope my hours spent on a fix and your help can help someone else in our group. i'm a little hesitant about amazon for car parts.
thanks again. will feel good to play my metallica and megadeth again-- there's a lot of METAL in my plastic car (lol).
backinthegame01 (defender-of-the-brand; should i change my sign-in name to that? i'm going out today to kick some hellcat butt)
on behalf of the seller of the switch i bought on amazon, i offer my apologies.
on a hunch, as a hedge, after the problem surfaced, i ordered the exact same chinese switch from summit (albeit for $25 more). yesterday, much to my amazement, when i substituted the new summit switch, the problem resolved itself. i suppose the amazon switch wasn't sending power thru the orange wire to the ipc, pwr wnd modules, or radio.
i hope my hours spent on a fix and your help can help someone else in our group. i'm a little hesitant about amazon for car parts.
thanks again. will feel good to play my metallica and megadeth again-- there's a lot of METAL in my plastic car (lol).
backinthegame01 (defender-of-the-brand; should i change my sign-in name to that? i'm going out today to kick some hellcat butt)
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Well a couple of lessons to be learned here: ALWAYS disconnect the battery before doing any electrical work on the car and be careful buying parts especially from EBay !!...a lot of counterfeit parts out there...buy from parts distributors like Rock Auto, GM Parts Direct etc...and stay away from Dorman parts !!...any part that has the word “sensor” in it stick with OEM !!