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I just pulled the following codes with the engine off using my UltraGauge. Torque would do the same.
The car has developed an intermittent idle fluctuation which is momentary. Fraction of a second long. It happens mostly when the car is not up to temp yet, but that is not a rule. It typically is only heard, not felt, and that is all. However, today it down cycled the engine hard enough to chirp the rear tires and this is now the next and essentially final service I have to do on the daily.
The codes suggest MAF, Map, possibly wiring for one or both, and therefore my mind is leaning toward checking the grounds also.
I could throw money at the problem and get new maf and map and start from there too.
A faulty MAP sensor can cause the MAF sensor DTC to set...see if your scan tool shows the MAP sensor with KOEO (key on engine off) as showing 103 kPa, 30.41 inches of Mercury, or 14.9 psi if you are at sea level...any of these values are good...also your MAF sensor should read about 6-7 grams per second at idle. As far as the P0135 you can let the O2 sensor cool and disconnect the harness and with an ohm meter read across the wires that are the same color on the O2 harness side...you should see 3.5 to 14 ohms...with key on you should see 12 volts on engine harness side and a good ground on the other...I like using an old headlight bulb to check my grounds...the O2 heater draws about 1.5 amps so I will use a bulb that draws 1.5 amps to check.
I think it is high time in my already 20+ year love of cars that I figure out how to use the volt meter tester. I appreciate the values and will see if I can equate them tomorrow.
Codes and Stalling
