So I have a 1997 C5 manual.
Ive noticed a couple things recently...
First weird thing is suppose I came to a 4 way stop and was going to take a right.
Stop, slip the clutch then leave right? Well, while I’m turning, the car will loose all engine power but it won’t die then a second or two later, it’ll accelerate as it should. Sounds like it bogs but engine does not turn off
Its so intermittent that I can’t get it to duplicate but noticed it predominantly when turning right at slow speeds from a stand still.
No lights, codes, smells sounds or anything.

That started about 4 months ago, then just recently, I would start the car and it would immediately die.
I would have to crank it on a couple times then it would start. Well 2 days ago, it didn’t start at. It would crank, then die about a second or 2 later. That got me thinking, so I disconnected the intake and maf and sprayed some starting fluid and it stayed on as long as I sprayed the fluid. So that leads me to believe it’s a fuel issue.
So i pull the schematic and follow it.
Fuse is getting power so I switch relays with the horn and that works.
i go to the connector and get my Multimeter and first time I don’t get a reading on either the 12v for the pump or the fuel level sensor. I thought maybe I wasn’t getting a good connection then I tried it again then I got my voltages.
At first I thought maybe my pump is bad but after I checked my measurements, I get an intermittent no voltage.
also, I know when the car will start because I hear the pump priming but the times It didn’t start, It didn’t prime obviously.

i don’t want to throw a 300-400 pump and it not fix my problem.

Sorry for the long read but I’m just frustrated and about to go drop it off at the dealer.

If anyone has a cheap OEM pump the wanna sell, I wouldn’t mind trying that but any help is appreciated!!!

 

Forum member C5 Diag has a great how to troubleshoot video on the fuel pump circuit.

 

Sorry to hear you're having some issues !!...what do you mean by this...."Fuse is getting power so I switch relays with the horn and that works." ??...so are you saying that when you swap the horn relay into the FP relay everything is OK now ??...just to take the control side of the relay out of the picture can you jump pins 87 and 30 as shown in the picture below with the key ON...the pump will run continuously so try that and see if the car dies again...I'm assuming you are checking your voltages at the pump with your DVOM...if you can somehow jumper the power and ground directly at the pump and it runs that will take a bad pump out of the picture..I'll also include that fuel pump relay video I did on Youtube !!

 

Yeah so I was just following the wiring schematic but yes, when I swap relays, the horn works so relay is good.
That was my next step, to get a jumper or power probe to the pin on the pump and ground it to see if it stays on. It is my daily so my dad is letting me borrow one of his cars because i don’t want to be left stranded but I tried it last night and fired right up. I also heard the fuel pump priming this time so I knew it was gonna start

 

UPDATE...


I drove my car to work today and it started fine but on the highway, it lost power again for a couple seconds then it was fine. As I was turning into a back road to get to the parking lot, the car literally dies on me as im rolling. Thinking it wasn't gonna start, it fired up. As soon as I parked it occurred to me if maybe it tripped a code and P1626 came up.

A while back I had someone bypass the VATS system.

Could it be an electrical issue instead of a fuel pump?

 

Could be your ignition switch, so yes it could be electrical, many forum members have resolved this problem by replacing the Ignition switch contact block.

 

The symptom is fairly common for a failing ignition switch, C5 Diag had a post on how to diagnose a while back, maybe he could repost-