I am looking to upgrade from my 2.73's after new years, but I am not sure what gears to go with. With my mustangs ( 90 & 98 both auto) the prefered gears were 4.10's. I went with 3.73's in the 98 and wasnt happy with them :(
But from looking in the sigs I see alot of 3.42's. Is 3.42's the way to go for mostly street driving?
What else will I need to get? (i.e. speedo recalibrator)
How much $ will I be looking at with install?

Thanks in advance

 

Curious - why were you unhappy with the 3.73's?

Gary

 

The 3.73's were not aggressive enough for me with the 4.6 sohc. They were good quality and I had no problems with them, I just wish I went with a more aggressive ratio :reddevil



[Modified by EJB98GT, 3:10 AM 12/19/2002]

 

3.73 gears are as big as you want to go on an A4 especially with a stock engine. 3.42s are a great all around gear that will give you great acceleration plus will be great for highway cruising. The reason why most people go with 3.42s is because of cost, 3.73 will cost you $1200.00 minimum. You can pickup used 3.42s on the used C5 parts forum for $500.00. If you are willing to buy a ring and pinion and pay someone to install it you can save a lot of money if you want 3.73s. If you are interested drop me an e.mail and I will tell you how I got my 3.73s.

Do yourself a big favor install your gears and a good aftermarket converter Yank or Vigilante (at least 2800 stall for Vig. 3000 stall for Yank) at the same time and avoid having to pay for labor twice if you install the gears and converter separately. I paid $500.00 for the installation of my gears and converter.


98 A4
Donaldson Blackwing
Cartek Stage 2 Heads
Cartek M Cam
LS6 Intake
TPIS Headers
Underdrive Pulley
Comp Push Rods
ST3500
3.73 Gears
B&M Trans Cooler
172 t.stat





[Modified by Mitch C, 3:05 PM 12/23/2002]

 

I only have a Z06 intake bolt on, but I have 3.73 gears and a little PT2400 converter. From a dead stop, I just punch the pedal all the way down and I can smoke and spit all the way until I shift into 2nd. What more do you want.

Mecury Mike has made several posts about "excess wheel spin" if one gets too much gear.

I say the best way to be happy with your set up is to know that your top end is "too much" and that you control it down to what ever level below that you are in the mood for today. :cheers:

 

Thanks for the replies.

Did you two notice much drivability difference with the torque converters? If a 3000 stall doest upset stop and go much I will get that at the same time, maybe a trans-go shift kit also :yesnod:

Now to find a good shop in the San Fran/Sac area :D

Thanks again

 

I ran 3.42s and a PT2400 converter and it drove just like stock until you got on it. The ST3500 and 3.73s I am now running does not drive like stock but it has very good street manners. A Yank 3000 would be a good compromize between the PT2400 and the ST3500.

Before you spend $300.00 buying and installing a shift kit checkout the Yank Converters web site under "FAQs" Yank does not recommend shift kits. I have had a PT2400 and the ST3500 and I had my computer reprogramed to adjust shift points and shift firmness. IMHO a shift kit is not needed.

 

I drove it... TUT's CAR ROCKS!! 373's!!

 

The stall is most obvious on hills. I saw another post quite some time back from a guy in your area who had a 2800 stall and went back to a 2400 stall because he lived in a very hilly area of town. You need to ride in cars with the different stalls before you buy a converter. It is a much more subjective purchase than gears. I think there is a nice PT2800 for sale currently. And despite it costing an additional $400, I liked the 1 step at a time approach of getting the gears first (3.42's for me) then taking another step and getting the converter and more gears (Pt2400 + 3.73's).

Despite the "forum" endorsements, I think that the software approach is best initially. You will need programming for 3.73's anyway so the shift adjustments are "included". If that is still not enough then add the shift kit. But remember. The shift kit is a totally seperate install - no money advantage to do at the same time unlike the converter/gear combo. And it is expensive to adjust or reverse if you do not like it.

Do not forget your dealer. I had my dealer do the converter and gear for $400 while I was in for other warranty service work.

I'm turning into Tom Steele!

Tshac - When we getting 3.73's & LS1Edit - you got any money left after that car stero and bass gatar?
Mitch C - Give Gary Talac an updated evaluation of stall & gears.


[Modified by KingTut, 9:18 AM 12/20/2002]

 

Did Gary ever get the gears installed??

 

I probably have what would be considered one of the looser setups out there, Yank SY3500 and 3.15's. The car hardly moves when put in D. But I don't find it annoying at all and it hasn't affected driveability. My tranny temps are still the same as when I had my stock converter. My only complaint is that I should have done 3.73's and a 4000+ stall instead, but then I wouldn't have a chance of hooking up on the street.
I know this is more of a rant, but you may find some of the info useful.

 

I am one of the 3.42 guys. I have not driven any other than the 3.15.

My cruising rpm went up and I am really not happy with that so I wouldn't be going any higher for me.

 

This is a very valid concern and one of the down side items. There is no free lunch. Everything is a trade off.

My best advice to anyone considering a gear change is to drive ALL THE TIME in 3rd for a week. If you are fine with that, the gears will most likely be less of an RPM change.

For me - I still have the stock exhaust and I have done extensive sound and heat insulation mods. I have to look at the TAC to tell if my RPM's went up. Others with already borderline LOUD exhaust may get pushed over the edge by the increased RPM's and accompaning increase in engine noise.

It is always best if you can understand the trade offs.

Higher RPM's and thus louder exhaust and lower gas mileage for quicker acceleration. Evaluate your desires and reach the proper balance point for you.

 

Yes another good point. Higher rpm means more noise from aftermarket exhaust and a bit of a headache for long trips.

I will likely be going back to stock exhaust with some electircal cutouts. Quiet cruising and nice exhaust when the cutouts are opened

 

:yesnod:

well stated. Serious racers would gladly accept the trade off's with 3.90 or 4.10 in an A4. But not me; 99.9% of my Corvette's useage is just regular street driving.


[Modified by Mike Mercury, 11:06 AM 12/21/2002]

 

My son has 373's in his Z28, it really made his car come alive. Any car that is going to be driven on long trips or alot of left lane freeway driving in my opinion shouldn't go lower then 342's in A4's. I feel it just to hard on the engine to spin above 4k for hours at a time without taking its toll. So I guess its give and take, if you want to make a 10-sec wonder out of your 50k corvette 410's in an A4 is the way to go.

 

I'm not sure where the 3.90's & 4.10's entered the discussion for A4's. I consider 3.73's as the maximum for normal street usage.

I have included a link to an A4-RPM calculator. But it will show for 75 mph:
3.15 2137
3.42 2320
3.73 2531
3.90 2646
4.10 2782
Still a very real consideration to evaluate, but not 4K rpm. Here is the link:
ftp://web-server.tutsoftware.net/corvette/C5_RPMJ.xls

One other interesting note is that tire circumferance can change RPM at a given speed. Using either 275/45/18 or 275/40/19 subtracts 100 rpm while 275/35/18 or 275/40/17 adds 100 rpm. Just some other factors.

Chris put in 3.42's and liked them, then cut the effect in half by changing to 19" wheels. Lots of things to consider but having the proper facts helps.

Two smart ideas I think are the electric cut outs on stock exhaust and 16" or 17" drag tires. Both help give the car and "adjustable" personality and increase functionality. Because I do not race, I do not have either, but they seem like fairly easy adjustments to get improved track results.

 

I regret my first choice (3.42's) thats how we learn, wish I had gone with the 3.73's a long time ago, however that is just me.

 

Just because you have a good women now does not make you wish you had not dated all the prior ones. It is just part of the process of refining your taste. I think going in small steps is good. Granted it cost more - but I would have never just jumped from 3.15's to 3.73's and probably you would not have either.

I always hear the guys looking back and saying take the "BIG" jump and save money. But how we center in on exactly what we like is to take little steps, feel comfortable and then take another. Some times we over shoot and take a small step back to find that ultimate setup for us.

Be thrilled that you got to where you are now, no regret on the path you took. It was necessary for you to get there.

 

Thanks for all the posts. :cheers:
I am leaning towards 3.73's since I live a whooping 5 miles from work and netted less than 5k miles over last 14 months in my GTI. 3.73's and a 2600 to 3000 stall seems to be the most likely combo right now, but I am always open for more advice :D