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I replaced the compressor and accumulator on my 03 C5 last week and ran a vacuum on the system for 4 hours. All indications were that the system was sealed and leak-free. On Friday morning, I put two 12oz cans of R134A into the system plus about 3-4 oz from a third can. That should be about perfect for a system spec'd at 1.75 lbs. A test drive around the block showed at full fan I was getting 38.3 degrees from the vent. Yesterday, 3 days later, I start the car and the air from the vent is warm. I open the hood and shine a flashlight on the compressor and the clutch is not engaging. I connect my Yellow jacket gauge set and it reads zero on both low and high pressure lines. Clearly, all the freon has leaked out in the span of 3 days. This morning, I'm running the vacuum again and all indications are the system is sealed. Any ideas on what could cause this leak?
You need to do a leak test. There is a chemical that you put in the AC lines. along with the R134A. You seem to have a pretty major leak, so I would wait a day. You can then use a black light to locate the leak.
You need to do a leak test. There is a chemical that you put in the AC lines. along with the R134A. You seem to have a pretty major leak, so I would wait a day. You can then use a black light to locate the leak.
I dont know if we are talking about the same thing, but i use a dye that glows. Works great. with that leak it should show its face fast.
I replaced the compressor and accumulator on my 03 C5 last week and ran a vacuum on the system for 4 hours. All indications were that the system was sealed and leak-free. On Friday morning, I put two 12oz cans of R134A into the system plus about 3-4 oz from a third can. That should be about perfect for a system spec'd at 1.75 lbs. A test drive around the block showed at full fan I was getting 38.3 degrees from the vent. Yesterday, 3 days later, I start the car and the air from the vent is warm. I open the hood and shine a flashlight on the compressor and the clutch is not engaging. I connect my Yellow jacket gauge set and it reads zero on both low and high pressure lines. Clearly, all the freon has leaked out in the span of 3 days. This morning, I'm running the vacuum again and all indications are the system is sealed. Any ideas on what could cause this leak?
Did you replace the two round, flat seals at the back of the compressor? They're seal the 2 lines going into, and coming out of, the compressor. I had a major leak here. Also, did you use new O-rings at the accumulator, and elsewhere? Harbor Freight sells a nice little LED blacklight flashlight for $7 or $8, which worked well for me. Once old seals/O-rings are disturbed, they don't always seal properly again. I'd also suggest a 'sniffer', which Harbor Freight also sells, to help locate the leak if dye doesn't work. Hope this helps......
Last edited by grinder11; Aug 10, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
Did you replace the two round, flat seals at the back of the compressor? They're seal the 2 lines going into, and coming out of, the compressor. I had a major leak here. Also, did you use new O-rings at the accumulator, and elsewhere? Harbor Freight sells a nice little LED blacklight flashlight for $7 or $8, which worked well for me. Once old seals/O-rings are disturbed, they don't always seal properly again. I'd also suggest a 'sniffer', which Harbor Freight also sells, to help locate the leak if dye doesn't work. Hope this helps......
My compressor kit came with a bag of o-rings of assorted sizes and thickness. I replaced every one of them in the entire system. Also the seals on the back of the compressor where the pressure line manifold connnects. Each one was lubricated with mineral oil.
My next freon charge will include some of that violet dye. I have a kit i bought last year for locating leaks. I happened to think of the shraeder valves on the 2 ports. I did NOT replace those. If, when I backed out the gauge connectorss, one or both of those valves did not reseat completely, that would certainly cause a leak, huh?
The Schrader valves in the ports can leak. I always spray them with glass cleaner after a charge and look for bubbles, then compressed air to blow out the glass cleaner. If the bubble try connecting and disconnecting the hoses a few times. If not I found NAPA carries the right Schrader.
Several hours. The same is going right now. I ran the vacuum pump for 5 hours yesterday. The gauges still show -29 PSI on the low side after 12 hours.
We use a micron gauge to help determine small leaks, but in my experience when it holds a deep Vacuum for 60 minutes or more with the gauges closed and the vacuum pump off, it is often the compressor seal or a pressure relief valve causing the Freon leak.Going to 0 psi in 3 days is a big leak.
The Schrader valves in the ports can leak. I always spray them with glass cleaner after a charge and look for bubbles, then compressed air to blow out the glass cleaner. If the bubble try connecting and disconnecting the hoses a few times. If not I found NAPA carries the right Schrader.
Exactly, my high pressure side port schrader valve went bad, and my low (fill) side came loose. I modified a Schrader tire valve stem removal tool to fit the low side valve, and tightened it. The sniffer led me to the loose valve. It was leaking enough to get sucked into the air intake at the base of the windshield. This made it come thru the interior vents, and made me think it was the Evaporator, which REALLY would've sucked!! Sniffers aren't too pricey, and can save time and money......
Last edited by grinder11; Aug 11, 2021 at 10:55 AM.
Several hours. The same is going right now. I ran the vacuum pump for 5 hours yesterday. The gauges still show -29 PSI on the low side after 12 hours.
It's been my experience that systems that show no vacuum leaks can, and do, have leaks under pressure. Not always, but it happens. The pressures have much more force than the vacuum a normal vacuum pump can achieve.......
It's been my experience that systems that show no vacuum leaks can, and do, have leaks under pressure. Not always, but it happens. The pressures have much more force than the vacuum a normal vacuum pump can achieve.......
That's where that micron gauge is handy. If you can pull, and hold a 1,200 micron vacuum the system is pretty damn tight. Often as a last check we rotate the compressor shaft back and forth while watching the micron gauge,, if it jumps way up the seal is leaking. Charging the system up with 200 psi of nitrogen can also help locate the leaks. A good detector like a H10 G is also very handy.
I dont know if we are talking about the same thing, but i use a dye that glows. Works great. with that leak it should show its face fast.
Put in a can of R134a with UV dye this morning. Almost immediately I found the low port lit up with dye. The Schrader valve is tight, but you can feel slight air pressure leaking out of the top of that port with your finger. I've ordered a valve replacement tool from Amazon that saves vacating the freon.
Put in a can of R134a with UV dye this morning. Almost immediately I found the low port lit up with dye. The Schrader valve is tight, but you can feel slight air pressure leaking out of the top of that port with your finger. I've ordered a valve replacement tool from Amazon that saves vacating the freon.
Good job!! The dye works, especially with a blacklight. Dye I used appeared to be a chartreuse color. There was enough of it, I could have restored a few fishing lures if I had thought of it quick enough!!
Put in a can of R134a with UV dye this morning. Almost immediately I found the low port lit up with dye. The Schrader valve is tight, but you can feel slight air pressure leaking out of the top of that port with your finger. I've ordered a valve replacement tool from Amazon that saves vacating the freon.
What tool where is this tool ? So u don’t have to purge the system replacing the valve? I need it …