I recently replaced the harmonic balancer in my '99. Now I get a DIC notice about the active handling warming up. The warning goes away when I press the reset, but the dash icon remains. It takes a few minutes of driving before I get the warning. Ive read a few comments in the Forum about this but havent been able to find a "fix". I was careful not to move the steering wheel after the column was disconnected, and am sure I reconnected it exactly the way I removed it. Anyone have a solution? Thanks

 

You never had that warning prior to replacing the harmonic balancer? Did you check your codes? I believe it is pretty normal to get that warning one and a while if you start off driving slow and your not going strait.

 

Have it checked out to be sure, but when mine did that, it ended up being the dreaded steering sensor. When my SWPS went bad, my DIC said Service Vehicle soon, Service Active Handling, so maybe you can have it slightly adjusted to make it work. If you dropped the cradle, and I did that when I changed my balancer, that's probably the issue......

EDIT!!!! There was NO SERVICE TCS. Sorry for the confusion.......

 

Never had that warning before. I've owned the car for just under 2 years. When i first got it it threw all kinds of codes because it had been in storage for a couple years. The more i drove it, they all started going away.
I checked the codes when it first read active hadling warming up. Most were codes you would see after the battery had been disconnected - B2282, 83, 84 &85. Also U1064 andB 0851 & 0856. I also saw B2264 &B 2265, verticle position sensor.
I cleared all the codes, took it out for a quick one mile drive and read the codes. Only codes were P0804, and B0367. I reset codes and repeated with the same results. I did notice both times, when i returned and shut the motor off, i got the service column lock message. I have the by-pass installed and have never had any issues with the column lock before. I can live with re-setting the DIC messages, but the active hadling icon on the dash stays on.

 

Yup, it stays on. Mines been on since 2006, and I've gotten used to it. You'll find that after you've reset it when the 'AH warming up' first appeared, about 15 minutes later, it'll flash the Service AH, Service Vehicle soon. When you reset both these codes, the icon does indeed stay lit, but you won't see the warnings again no matter how far you drive. But shut it off, and the whole process begins anew.......

 

Thanks for the reply. Ive tried everything i can think of, including a new battery. I still get the active handling warning after 20 seconds of driving, and the dash icon remains. Does anyone know if this can be reset in any way?

 

I copied this from an old post, maybe it will help...Scary as all hell. Couple of days ago, my '01 Z06 started flashing Active Handling on the HUD every 5 minutes or so and, at higher speeds (over 60 mph) applying the brakes on the passengers side.



Something that you need to do before you invest in NEW PARTS.

Clear ALL the DTCs. Monitor Frequently and see what reappears.

When you experience the Active Handling Issue, before you turn OFF the ignition, read and post all the DTCs. When you turn the ignition key OFF, the EBTCM clears most of the DTCS in its memory.

Each time you turn the key ON, the EBTCM runs a self test and it checks ALL of its micro processors functionality and all of the sub-sensors (WSS, Pressure Sensor SWPS, accelerometers, ect.. and communicates the PASS FAIL to the BCM. The BCM interfaces with the IPC and that's where you see all the messages and lights..

When it screws up, If there ISNT A DTC listed for the EBTCM,,,, the EBTCM "THINKS" it doing the correct thing. Some sensor is giving the EBTCM "FALSE" data. Its usually the SWPC but, it could also be a WSS or any sensor for that matter.

The ONLY way to know for sure is to put a GM TECH2 on the OBD2 Port and scan the EBTCM through the serial data buss. That will PIN POINT what EBTCM "SENSOR" is causing active handling to activate

One other thing you should check is whether or not your wheel alignment is causing the problem. If your steering wheel is off center by a certain amount that might cause the activation. Another thing to check is the lateral accelerometer sensor on the passenger side floorboard. If that has been disturbed that could be cause the problem. The yaw sensor in the center stack could also be a cause.

 

Thank you Alley Oop. Great information. I did not know to check codes prior to turning off the ignition.
ill get the codes and post tomorrow. Thanks again!

 

You are most welcome. Hopefully this will help to get your problem figured out.

 

I retrieved two new codes today after driving for about 30 minutes.
Before turning the motor off, I checked all codes and got: TCS C1255 - ECU malfunction and C1283 - steering sensor malfunction.
Guess I'll look at replacing the steering sensor, unless there's a way to reset it.
Thanks in advance.

 

Active Handling Warming Up is a message that typically shows up after an engine start followed by slow sharp turns (as would be seen when leaving a parking lot). The reason the warm-up signal is shown is the car has to calibrate where straight ahead is located to compensate for parts wear in the steering system. GM chose to do that after each engine start. This is accomplished by traveling in a straight line for a short distance (up to a couple of hundred feet) at a speed over 6 mph. The EBCM/EBTCM samples the wheel speed sensor signals to determine when the car is going in a straight line. If both rear-wheel speed sensors are reading the same frequency and both front-wheel speed sensors are reading the same frequency then the angle reading from the steering sensor must be with the steering set straight ahead. Once that is established the AH system is able to determine which direction the driver is pointing the steering.

There are a few things that can cause this warning to show up. One is an issue with wheel alignment where the steering wheel is sitting at an able when the car is driving straight thus causing the steering sensor to generate an angle voltage. This can be caused by changes in toe settings at either the front or rear of the car. Rear toe changes can affect thrust angle. If you have too much thrust angle the car dog walks down the road and the steering wheel has to be turned at an angle to make the car go straight. The other can be a steering sensor that isn't producing an accurate angle voltage

Bill

 

Must be the steering column moved somehow…

 

It could maybe be a good idea to verify the signal from the steering wheel sensor using a scanner or voltmeter(analog steering voltage)
This is how the voltages behave on my scanner with my 2000 car when turning my wheels

 

Don't know what part of Florida you are in but if you're in the Southwest bring the car by and I'll take a look at it for you !!