Hello has anyone had a balancer look like this before walking off the rubber? I was doing other maintenance to the car today and noticed this. It was fine i believe or not all cracked rubber like what is seen in the pics. I had marked it according to someones suggestion to see if it would spin. Hasn't spun but the rubber on one side looks to be in bad shape. Whats an affordable balancer to replace with this is one of the first times ive seen this? I read powerbond or dorman balancer was 62$ on amazon a few months ago. Let me know if this is fine to run or if anyone has seen one look like this before catastrophic failure? I believe when i marked it with whiteout a couple months ago the rubber was in the same condition as the area that is marked. Had easily accessed it from the passenger side engine bay and now it looks like this on half the balancer. Is there anything wrong with running a dorman or powerbond, dayco balancer? I could afford an expensive stock size replacement or underdrive pulley but would have issues finding the correct belt later and would cut out of my cam costs or i could afford the cheaper stock dorman pulley and maybe a cam at the same time. So for this you have to drop the rack and pinion? Think this is a good replacement More Information for ULTRA-POWER 594115 (rockauto.com) dorman or the ac delco, dayco/pb PB1117N? There is a professional products 80033 7.5" balancer for 108$ from jegs/amazon. What balancer have you guys used? The 25% underdrive dayco balancer is 180$ but would cut out of my cam purchase. Everything that needs to be removed for the balancer replacement according to chassis components is the same when doing a cam?

 

In two weeks I'll have been running the AC Delco balancer for a year. Same with the crankshaft bolt. No problems. I don't race and don't plan on any engine mods. At 150K miles I'm just using stock parts until it drops.
Mine didn't look like yours. Mine walked backwards until it hit the timing cover.
Yes, you have to pull the rack and pinion. There is no room to work on let alone remove the balancer.
It's really not that bad a job. I did it laying on a gravel driveway at the end of December. In rain and snow. Hopefully you will get to pick a more convenient time.
I did buy some special tools mostly to deal with this particular balancer. No other special tools needed. Just patience and weather.
Good luck.

 

Several vids available, search c5 harmonic balancer replacement on YouTube.
You'll also need a new bolt. They are one time use, designed to stretch when torqued appropriately.

 

I would also suggest new timing cover gaskets and front seal while you're in there. It may seem obvious, but not to everyone.

 

Great yes probably a new seal kit. Anything wrong with running a dorman balancer from rock auto for 56$ or does it need to be ac delco or powerbond? I was going to try and squeeze an elgin cam or btr weekend warrior stage 3 truck cam at the same time.

 

I just did some googling for 3 seconds and found multiple people complaining about issues with the Dorman damper but they were pretty old posts so proceed at your own risk. The Dayco Powerbond is the way to go.

 

Is that the 1117n balancer? i seen that as well and yes thats a pretty big concern. Anyone have thoughts on this balancer its professional products and 108$ vs 100$ for the dayco powerbond. I did use a powerbond 25% underdrive pulley on my 98 z28 to make room for the turbo oil drain in the front cover but not sure wheather an underdrive pulley makes a noticeable gain on these cars. It may be worth the 180$ if it adds 10hp but can anyone confirm this? Alot of the problem is from rockauto they say 1 year 12k mile warranty which is enough time for the part to take a crap after. Someone let me know if you think the professional products is simply better then the powerbond or some cheap racing looking balancer for appearance. It may be a good product. Anyone have any pictures of how theirs walked off and did it leave you stranded? Curious if the cars safe to drive as it is till i get time to replace it.

Im all for the professional products if you think its better then the dayco/pb which is 100.70$ on amazon vs 108$ from amazon/jegs.
Is there an affordable underdrive pulley for these cars?
On the balancer replacement you just had to remove the tie rod ends, 2 bolts mounting the rack and pinion and slide it to the side/drop it down or disconnect the lines as well? In park on an auto will the car hold itself allowing you to loosen the 225ft/lb balancer bolt or will i have to remove the starter and flywheel locking tool. I did it one time on a 98 z28 6 speed and didnt have to hold the flywheel. Either left it in gear with parking brake and used a 4 ft pipe on a half inch breaker bar ratchet which was extremely tight. My friend has a 1500ftlb earthquake impact that should remove the bolt? Yes you bet the bolts inaccessible with the rack and pinion to install the torque converter bolts when rebuilding the torque tube i had to pull the spark plug wires and crank to the correct location.

 

I would use this over the PB1117N
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...&keyword=c2501
And the ARP bolt to go with it
Yes you will need the flywheel lock tool

 

Check out ASP, Auto Specialties Performance. They make good stuff for a good price, too. Around $250.00. Been running their 25% UD for 15 years, no problems.......

 

Man you bet with tsp headers the starter wont fit up in there once installed have to let the headers hang on the ground while tucking starter up mounted then raise headers. I just did this 3 months ago for the torque tube. Im low on funds otherwise the summit balancer is a great idea. You dont have thoughts on the professional products 7.5" similar to summits but nearly half the price? Professional Products 80033: Powerforce Harmonic Damper Chevy Corvette LS1/LS2/LS6 - JEGS High Performance You sure the engine wont hold itself and a milwaukee 1500 ftlb impact to take the bolt off? I thought i knew someone that used it to take a balancer bolt off on another ls1 engine.

 

ah i see the asp any idea if it did increase the hp by 10+. ASP LS1 underdrive pulley kit reduces parasitic power losses associated with high accessory speeds, freeing up additional HP. It also reduces the rotating inertia on the front of the crankshaft allowing for faster revving. We have seen just over 13 rear wheel hp increase with this kit installed on stock LS1s.

Its not a bad idea to pass on the cam for now and get a ud pulley ASP 941020 | Underdrive Pulley (SFI Approved) 25% Harmonic Dampner Crank; 1997-2004 (lmperformance.com)

 

Yes, part# ASP941020. HOWEVER, it has a double asterisk saying it won't work on Z06. I'm assuming that to be the C6 Z06, due to the crank snout being different than the LS1, LS2, & LS3. Says it'll fit all 3 engines thru 2009.
Call them@877-928-8678.........

 

Sorry I have no idea how good those balancers are. I have the ATI balancer. Your going to need the lock tool to install the new bolt anyway and they are cheap. I do not use an impact gun on anything except taking my wheels off...

 

So you would advise against using the impact gun on the crank pulley bolt? Anyone have experience with this? I believe the big impact will do the trick.

 

It will work... The only problem is it may take out some of the threads with it. The lock tool will work removing and installing the new bolt

 

Here ya go just posted, the Summit Balancer with the ARP bolt included
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604390958

 

From the look of your many postings, I would go for caution rather than speed taking things apart. If you strip threads or snap that bolt you'll have much bigger problems

 

I will also suggest the Summit balancer if youre on a budget. SFI rated and under $200. Its a job you dont want to do again. I just ordered the 25% underdrive one a week ago and will be installing this winter.

 

I've been using a 30yr. old Campbell/Hausfeld 1/2" impact on my balancer since 2004. NEVER an issue with the threads stripping, or the balancer spinning. However, my gun isn't one of these newer "earthquake" type guns with 600+lb/ft of torque. You've gotta use common sense. If you try to get a brand new, 1" impact, with 1,000+lb/ft of torque, you probably break something. I've also been using it on nothing but forged cranks, which, admittedly have much stronger threads than a cast crank. But really, research the amount of torque it takes to strip a 3/4-16 thread. People have used impacts to install balancers for decades. If you don't have a lot of experience with this stuff, it's probably best to get the crank tool. Oh, one other thing. My IR compressor is running just North of 160lbs/sq inch air pressure when I use the impact.......

 

Does it have to be the 40$ ICT flywheel locking tool or can it be one of the cheaper 15$ locking tools they sell on amazon. I read some reviews where they didnt line up with the flexplate or snapped. What flywheel locking tools do you guys use?