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I had mine replaced with a power bond from summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbb-pb1117ss with the ARP bolt. I had a leak at my front seal, so I also replaced that with a new AC Delco seal. All of these problems were resolved in that job. I didn't do it myself though. I think my total out the door in labor was $1200, but they also changed out my power steering pump and the tensioner pulley at the same time because they were squeaking. I did buy the other parts for the balancer and the bolt myself, so I guess just shy of $1600 for it all.
I use the inexpensive Powerbond replacement balancer in the HB replacements I do. The HB Puller, Holder and Installer from Summit work fantastic as well.
Started using them years ago after A&A Corvette told me they hold up very well even to supercharged applications. No problems thus far.
I use the inexpensive Powerbond replacement balancer in the HB replacements I do. The HB Puller, Holder and Installer from Summit work fantastic as well.
Started using them years ago after A&A Corvette told me they hold up very well even to supercharged applications. No problems thus far.
Is the installation and removal equipment seen in the video? I'm just going to use the 3 jaw rental puller. I have a 3 bolt slotted puller for use for any balancer with 3 bolt holes. You dont think the jegs for 108$ may be worth the little extra coin as the dayco/pb is 101$, 88$ new from summit plus shipping unless 100$+ order free shipping new or sometimes found on ebay for 85$+ I used the powerbond ud pulley on 500+ turbo application can't speak for belt tension or whatever supercharger would cause problems with.
Is the installation and removal equipment seen in the video? I'm just going to use the 3 jaw rental puller. I have a 3 bolt slotted puller for use for any balancer with 3 bolt holes. You dont think the jegs for 108$ may be worth the little extra coin as the dayco/pb is 101$, 88$ new from summit plus shipping unless 100$+ order free shipping new or sometimes found on ebay for 85$+ I used the powerbond ud pulley on 500+ turbo application can't speak for belt tension or whatever supercharger would cause problems with.
Yes, I used the puller, holder and installer in the vid. Others may well work but I can say these three items work very well and show NO signs of wear - built well!
I went with the assault racing balancer for 91.77$ as much as the stock replacements. Im waiting till it warms up hopefully feb-march before replacing with the elgin 1839 220/224 cam. Im going to do a compression test before to make sure the heads are in good working order and ordering a set of pac 1219s and pushrods to install at the same time. Came with a woodruff key.
I weighed this balancer on a bathroom scale compared to a stock f-body balancer and there about the same the f-body says 10lbs the assault racing shows 11lbs so not much of a difference. Is there any reason not to use the dorman 4$ balancer bolt?
Has anyone used the massive xl balancer bolt similar to arps and speedmaster. Says it has 10mm longer threads It has slightly longer threads into the crankshaft but some reviews said the bolt didnt work and was too long mashing into the back of the crank threads. Im curious if its too long or if it will work with the replacement balancer. I can't check until i have the old balancer out and measure the depth of the crankshaft threads with a screwdriver.
From what i understand you have to put silicone on the washer to prevent oil from leaking back out thru the crank bolt? Do you also need to use some kind of thread lubricant? Says torque to 235ft lbs only my torque wrench goes to 150 ftlbs. Somewhere i seen someone said they used impacts to remove balancers but also torque?
I was just going to get the speedmaster bolt
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
That was grinder11 that used some old impact gun to do his,IIRC
The ARP bolt is what 35.00 or so...What's a few bucks when it come to buying a known brand that has been proven to work?
When I did mine there was a degree amount to turn to bolt after first torquing to 35 ft/lbs. I think it was 150 degrees (don't go by me - look it up). If your torque wrench doesn't go to 240 ft/lbs (mine doesn't) try getting the degree setting and using that.
That was grinder11 that used some old impact gun to do his,IIRC The ARP bolt is what 35.00 or so...What's a few bucks when it come to buying a known brand that has been proven to work?
Didn't one of you say you run a supercharger with an aftermarket ati balancer 8 rib pulley and pinned balancer? Did that ad alot of weight to the balancer or damper? The kmj balancer weighs 11lbs. I dont think ill get that far with this corvette the 4l60e isn't rated but to maybe 450hp. Best case is ill end up with a set of 799s or 243s with a local machine shop valve job and the small 220/224 cam.
You dont think the speedmaster for 23$ would work just as good? Curious if the dorman 4$ bolt is just as good as the gm factory bolt if i were to use a new stock style bolt. You may be right arp would be better. I had used arp clutch and flywheel bolts on my 98 z28 spec 2+ i used with my 500whp+ s475 turbo. The threads were real sharp and fit real tight into the stock flywheel but did torque and work well. I spoke with comp and they said the comp valve seal 528-kit would work on factory heads and are marked black and brown for intake and exhaust for 25$ on amazon. Scoggin dickey performance parts told me the 1219s should work would leave .050 room if i decided to put a bigger cam in later. Reason for the 1219s is that they're just as much as the pac-1218s. In 2009 when i purchased my 98 z28 i had read alot of issues either with comp or pac single beehives springs breaking. It may have just been a conversation about running dual springs that way incase one did break the second spring would keep it from dropping into the engine.
Im going to order a set of pac 1219s unless there is a specific reason to buy the 1218s and comp 528-kit. I would go with summits 180$ ls dual spring kit that already comes with seals but summit doesn't sale on amazon where i have 149$ gift card balance to spend on springs. Amazon also has the 50$ autozone fel pro front cover set for 33$. May be cheaper to go through them
Last edited by Justin Raney; Dec 22, 2021 at 07:42 PM.
When I did mine there was a degree amount to turn to bolt after first torquing to 35 ft/lbs. I think it was 150 degrees (don't go by me - look it up). If your torque wrench doesn't go to 240 ft/lbs (mine doesn't) try getting the degree setting and using that.
Is the stock balancer bolt a tty bolt? Yes a buddy did the same torqueing his stock balancer bolt and turn it the other degrees. May i ask if you went with a genuine gm bolt, dorman or the same stock used bolt?
It says to torque the balancer bolt to 240ftlbs to insure its seated all the way against the crank then loosen it and retorque it to 50ftlbs plus a certain degree?
Last edited by Justin Raney; Dec 22, 2021 at 07:46 PM.
Is the stock balancer bolt a tty bolt? Yes a buddy did the same torqueing his stock balancer bolt and turn it the other degrees. May i ask if you went with a genuine gm bolt, dorman or the same stock used bolt?
It says to torque the balancer bolt to 240ftlbs to insure its seated all the way against the crank then loosen it and retorque it to 50ftlbs plus a certain degree?
It was a strange process. Since these are TTY bolts you can't torque them to 240 then back them off and do the degree thing. You have to use the OLD bolt you took out and torque it down. Mine bottomed out before getting to 150ft/lbs. I guess they really do stretch. Then I removed it and installed the NEW one - first by the low torque setting followed by the degree amount. I never did get it to the full degree amount. I ran out of everything - space, torque, desire. That bolt ain't goin' nowhere.
I was doing a compression test this morning and they all test around 150psi. Is this normal for a stock ls1 engine? Was making sure i didn't have bad cylinder rings or bad valve seats. One valve may i mention when i was putting the tsp headers i had stuck an autozone magnet which then pulled a small piece of valve material off of the driver side 3rd back exhaust port. Today i pulled all the plugs and the one plug does have some oil. I swapped the plug with the one next to it to see if it does come out oily next time. I guess it wouldn't have a burnt or exhaust valve if it did have 150psi. I failed to mention this. Every new bosch platinum plug was burned clean when i did the headers a few months ago but was fishing around for bolts and the extension magnet had pulled off part of a valve thru the exhaust port. If its pumping 150 psi with the rest of the cylinders but does have oil on the plug what could this mean? You can see where they wrecked it and had the frame pulled. Mind you i didn't notice this till installing headers as well as lower radiator support half missing and a fan blade hanging loose. The headers i was repairing an exhaust leak was all he mentioned it had 2-3 bolt broken in the exhaust manifold it turned out that one stud on each exhaust manifold cat side was broken off and a rear intake bolt was stripped or wouldn't torque passed 5lbs. It doesn't pose any problems i suppose just wish he would've disclosed this stuff before as the torque tube was trash as well. I did a vin check showed a wreck from somewhere in 2009-2011 and the rack and pinion has a upc with the date of 11/11 2009 or 2011 i just seen.
Last edited by Justin Raney; Dec 24, 2021 at 11:26 AM.
Im thinking the compression tester may be off a bit. I did the teaspoon or oil in the cylinder trick compression didn't change one bit. So im assuming the rings are good. I read other threads where some compression testers read off a bit. Im wondering if my new balancer with the 3 holes for slotted pulley pulley removal will work with the classic style harmonic balancer holder. Summit Racing SME-906007 Summit Racing™ Harmonic Balancer Wrenches | Summit Racing as the ls1 puller has three dowels aligned a believe for factory style pulleys. This you would have to drill two holes atleast if they were off and i believe 1/4" bolts to hold it while torqueing to 235 ftlbs per arps spec.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
I have Kook's headers so it was easy to unbolt one side and replace the starter. I also went with the truck starter that had 2 long bolts instead of 1 short and one long
I have Kook's headers so it was easy to unbolt one side and replace the starter. I also went with the truck starter that had 2 long bolts instead of 1 short and one long
Do you have to unbolt the passenger kooks header to replace the starter or are they designed different from the tsp which requires the header be unbolted to remove starter?
