TSP's are slip fit header where the Kook's are not so the can drop out the bottom easy

 

Nice i may have messed up they have the 2" header option. I had gotten the TSP headers because the speed engineering were on back order for a couple months at the time. They're around 400$ and come with the 3" x pipe. I did a compression test this morning relocated the car to the driveway pulled all the plugs and fuel pump relay and all tested 150psi. Not sure if i was experiencing operator error with the tool but a few hours ago i went ahead and check couple more with just 2 plugs removed and were in the 165psi range that had read the same consistent 150psi on all 8 this morning. Im assuming the motor should be in ok condition for mods. The spark plug wires fell apart and now looking for a replacement set.

 

I used a 1/2" drive Campbell/Hausfeld impact. You'll play Hell ever stripping a 3/4"-16 thread. Especially if you're using a hardened (ARP) bolt in a forged steel crank. Even an ARP in the stock cast steel crank. I've never had a balancer spin on any crank, or strip any threads............

 

Now did you just torque the stock or arp bolt down on the stock crank with a 1/2" impact?

 

Did u get the arp bolt??? If u use arp u use torque wrench to torque speck. Not degreers.

 

Unless you have a lot of experience, I'd recommend a torque wrench. I use my impact for 2 reasons:

1: I have had my impact for over 30 years, and know it's power potential well.

2: I've had a lot of experience.

If you do use an impact, DO NOT USE one of the super powerful 600lb/ft "earthquake" type guns.

 

I may use it to remove the balancer. Torqueing it thru an auto is the tough part. On 6 speed just left it in gear and torqued. I dont recall even if i reused the old stock bolt or did buy a new one in 2011 when i did swap a cam and powerbond ud pulley on a z28. Bought the pulley over on ls1tech new for 160$ i think from someone not sure it came with a bolt or if i got one on ebay i dont remember because autozone doesnt stock it.

 

Justin, get an ARP bolt. Can always be reused......

 

Yes i ordered a arp bolt today for 37$ and fel pro front cover gasket for 33$ its 50$ at local auto parts so i went with amazon and some 1157 led reverse light bulbs and a 2 metra speaker wire adapters harness to put aftermarket 6.5" speakers in the rear. The only thing is if i had to sell the car and to swap to another f-body platform i wouldnt be able to get the arp bolt out because of the rack and pinion and replace with a 4$ dorman. The pac-1219s arrive tomorrow with the comp 528-kit valve seal kit.

 

I got the front cover seal set, balancer, arp bolt, camshaft, valve seals and springs but will probably late feb early spring until i change the balancer and cam when the weather warms up.

 

Ok im at the rack and pinion any ideas what lines to disconnect specifically just the two at the top by the steering shaft? Borrowed a balancer puller and hope to get the rack and pinion off tomorrow just not sure which lines to disconnect first. Do you need to get the power steering pump and/or reservoir alternator, ebcm brake bracket, and swaybar off to get the rack and pinion out? Im planning on do the balancer and cam. The air dam screen is a good idea as i found a bunch of grass up in between the radiator and condenser after having cleaned it a few months installing a new lower radiator support.

 

I would hit that with some degreaser and a hose before taking it further apart. Will probably make working on it a little more enjoyable.

Just the high and low pressure hose that go in the rack by the steering shaft need to be disconnected (your 4th image). The lines on the rack themselves can stay.

 

This does look to be the factory seal and part of it stuck to the balancer wearing a groove into it as well as factory bolt? Im guessing its the stock seal and probably balancer and bolt as well as to why the front cover was coated in sludge. I have a fel pro front cover gasket kit. Now im going to be installing a cam so just coat it in assembly lube and its fine to reuse the stock thrust plate or do you guys usually replace it with a new one? Theyre 18$ on amazon. The cam bolts dont use any loctite just torqued to correct specs and for the front cover leave all the bolts loose until the balancer is torqued and you torque the oil pan bolts first to front cover then the rest of the front cover bolts and fit silicone on the corners of front cover to oil pan gasket seal? I did install one on my old 98 z28 but that was in 2011 and reused the stock thrust plate new front seals with ud pulley but i believe i centered the front cover by installing the balancer then torquing front cover bolts and never had an issue. The problem with this is you have to remove the rack and pinion and can't afford to make that mistake. Im going to order the 15$ amazon flywheel locking tool i suppose to torque the balancer to 240ft/lbs. The impact would work as it removed the bolt easily just dont want to hammer on the crank so ill be trying to find a torque wrench that goes to 240ft lbs? Any idea where you can borrow a 1/2" or 3/4" torque wrench that goes that torques that much. I could pick up a dorman 7$ bolt at autozone and just measure it with degrees but then would have to worry about the bolt stretch and coming loose.

 

That's how I did mine. I don't know how you want to do your rack, Justin. Some guys just move them far enough so they're outta the way. I completely removed mine, out the passenger side. I did come up with a few variations on cuss words trying to remove those 2 lines at the end of the rack. Didn't help though....

 

My car only has 37K miles and had a similar groove in the pulley from the seal. Mine sat a lot though so I wonder if it was more of an age thing hardening the rubber vs actual wear. Mine spends a lot of time around 7000 rpm though, so it spinning pretty fast in that hole lol.

 

Hey yes i got the rack out of the way but can anyone identify is this is a dorman balancer or other stock style? Part number is 591220. Its not in too bad of shape other then the groove worn into it. Im going to replace the front cover seals but curious if this balancer was a good one. This should fix the oil leak from the front cover as well as i was just in here to install the cam. Id hate for the aftermarket professional products or ar one i purchased to have a wobble or something else wrong with it. That rack is a pain. My gauge cluster says 92,600k miles but never know as its a rebuilt title. I too think the seal is aged. My 98 z28 with 140k miles in 2011 didnt have any wear into the stock balancer.

 

My OEM unit says 591220 also. Not quite as many balance holes as yours. Has a large letter "A" and a "G" embossed in a diamond design as well as 7212 and the letter "X" on another leg.

 

Thats great new so its ok to assume this is the original ac delco gm balancer and seal thats maybe never been replaced?

 

You keep mentioning that dorman bolt. Do you want to save $30 and wonder if the dorman is going to fail or do you want to put in the ARP and be confident the part will do the job?
You might have to call around to find a torque wrench that goes up to 240 ft-lbs. They may be available as loaners even though the specs online don't always say the max torque.
Harbor Freight has one for $130 if you're feeling lucky.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-57923.html

 

My harbor freight 1/2" torque wrench only goes to 150 ftlbs. Though the flywheel locking tool and new cam thrust plate should be here in a couple days. Ill be removing the passenger header and starter, rocker arms and pushrods to lock the flywheel and install the cam. I have the correct 12 point 1 1/16th socket for torqueing the bolt.

I may have found one oreillys says 250 ftlbs and is in stock. Rental Tools EverTough Torque Wrench 67075 | O'Reilly Auto Parts (oreillyauto.com)