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The Centerforce DF clutch I put in turned out to be a piece of crapolian.
I've seen a few others: Ram, Mcleod, and Star SPEC
It looks like the Mcleod as to have an adjustable m/c and the Star SPEC is about 60% higher in price but includes a new stell flywheel.
The issue with the Centerforce is they have this ring of weights around the fingers that are supposed to balance the clutch. It looks like after about 1000 miles the weights decided to jam themselfs into the clutch fingers making it not release above 5k rpm's.
I talked with MTI about an adjustable m/c and they only recomended them on Mcloed's and they couldn't comment on the CF clutch. DRM said they had a lot of failures when they used CF clutches and said they use Startech's now.
They engineer I spoke with @ Centerforce said that because I had Redline in the gearbox and hi-temp brake fluid in the clutch m/c was why the clutch was not releasing :bs
Ram 402/6130 combo. It'll hold all you can throw at it and then some ;)
Levi,
what's the combo? clutch & pp? and are those the model #'s or part #'s
everyone who's recommended the stock or Z06 clutch...I might think about the Z clutch but I've had a lot issues with the stock clutch. I took a stock clutch out with only 6k miles on it when I rebuilt the engine in order to have a clutch you could "through a lot at"
At least the dang CF clutch doesn't let the pedal stick to the floor like the stock clutches did.
I went with the McLeod Dual Disc with an Aluminum Flywheel, Adjustable Master & Z06 slave. This setup is not cheap and your installer wont be able to install it in record time either. What you will have when it is finished is IMO the best clutch assembly available for the C5. To put it plainly, this thing clamps much better than any single disc I have had in the past. :eek: Yes, I had the Single Disc McLeod before purchasing the dual disc. So I can speak from experience on this one...
I keep telling guys to get this setup and they buy something else just because it cost less. A few months down the road they always come back saying the POS system they went with has already gone bad. If they had purchased the best one in the beginning, they would have been much better off in the long run.
At your power level don't even think about the Z06 clutch. Stock Z's are having problems with them. My Star Stage II is holding up fine at these power levels. It engages easily, and smoothly, and clamps hard. I no linger have the sticking clutch pedal problem, I did remove all THREE of the clutch fluid restrictors from the new style master cylinder and slave cylinder. Works great. :steering:
Another vote for the Mccleod dual disk clutch. :cheers: There is absolutely no chatter with this clutch and it engages much smoother than the Cartek.
I had the Cartek for about 8 moths with my "cam'ed" car /w 150-shot before. When MTI drop in my new 408 stroker motor, I decided to replace it wiht the McCleod clutch while we are in there. And plus, I do not think the Cartek clutch will be able to handle a stroker motor with 200-300shot. :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
Just ask around, most if not all 9second C5's have this clutch in their cars. That means McCleod got to be doing something right with their dual disk set up.
Gary, the '02 Z06 clutch unit is working just fine in my car. Even after a few attempts at the track, with BFG DRs, the clutch is working fine. Both our cars seem to be making like HP/Torque(410/380), you might want to give it a try. In fact, after a dozen or so trips down the track, the clutch fluid looks real good in color.
Joe
I am interested in removing the restrictors in my clutch hydraulic system. Do you have any detailed information that you could toss out to explain where they are in the system and how you went about removing them?
I have had the release problem that everyone has and I believe that the restrictions are a major part of the problem.
Levi,
what's the combo? clutch & pp? and are those the model #'s or part #'s
everyone who's recommended the stock or Z06 clutch...I might think about the Z clutch but I've had a lot issues with the stock clutch. I took a stock clutch out with only 6k miles on it when I rebuilt the engine in order to have a clutch you could "through a lot at"
At least the dang CF clutch doesn't let the pedal stick to the floor like the stock clutches did.
Get the clutch PP and disc at SummitRacing.com, here are the part #s:
RAM-402 (PP)
RAM-6130 (disc)
Free shipping
Then get an adjustable master cylinder of choice.
Resurface the stock flywheel, $35
This clutch is a beast man. It's a ***** out clutch that'll hold all that you can throw at it. It'll only get a little chattery in a lot of stop and go traffic causing the pp and disc to get hot but other than that it's a great clutch! It has a VERY positive engagement. You know when it is engaged as opposed to the buttery engagement of the stocker clutches. I love this clutch man. I never have to worry about it failing ;)
They are a PITA to get rid of. There is one in the output fitting from the master cylinder to the line, one in the middle of the line, and one in the input fitting of the slave cylinder. You have to drive out the roll pins to remove the fittings, drill out those two restrictions, drill through the 90 degree fitting to get to the third, , drill out the third restriction, blow out all the metal chips, then tap and fill the hole you used to get to the restriction. Now when you put them back together you gotta refill them with fluid and get the air out, 'cause they were prefilled and bled. OR you can take the parts to a hydraulic shop and let them do this for you, it cost me $60. :thumbs: