Ok, a little back story - I have a 2000 Convertible - bought from my dads estate. 6 speed 75K miles.... He was the 2nd owner and had it for like 16 years, until I bought it a little over a year ago. He drove it.... every where, loved it. So much so the tires on it still are the ones he bought... and they are Mud and Snow rated....lol. The car brought him joy and I was looking to get some of that myself, and remembering him at the same time. He never had any big issues with it - always did oil changes, I think he replaced one headlight gear (i found the parts to do 2 and one set is missing). Anyways - the car sat for about the last years before I got it because he just couldn't drive it - I remember taking him to dinner one night and we drove it. He loved that. Anyways... by the time I got it the battery had died and my brother would put a charger on it to top it off then let it go dead .... over and over... I think this fried the anti lock brake pump sensor so it had the death lights on the dash. I bought a new battery, "newer" anti lock brake pump unit and replaced that - bled the brakes with fresh fluid, oil change, coolant flush, new belts, tensioners, pulleys, etc... caught as much maint up as I could at the time. I hit all the high spots. All the codes went away except a wheel tpms - they are original and I will replace them when it comes time to do the tires in Spring.

The car is 100% stock except for a B&B cat back.

Heres the problem. Last Sept I was out driving through the country and the car started hesitating, bucking whiles driving... ended up stalling out a couple times. Each time if I waited a few minutes I could get the car restarted and limped it home. I went out the next day and it just cranked, no start..... I pulled the codes and got a P0336, and I was like looks like the tune up is coming now too. All the research I could fine pointed towards the crank position sensor. Which is behind the starter... so I waited.. I had a spot in the garage I just pushed it over and left it there. I bought new plug wires and plugs... did those (Taylor 409 series 10.4mm and ac delco 41-110 plugs). Double check - crank no start. Get the car up in the air... (removed battery) unhook the 3 wires from the starter... remove starter bolts... slide it forward... get to the crank position sensor... unbolt it and replace. Reassemble and torque all bolts... go back up top... car cranks no start... turn key back to off the car continues to crank... I jump out and pull the negative battery cable... I think messing with the 20 year old starter added to my problems... so I need to pull that out and either have it checked or replace it... not sure if anyone rebuilds them anymore.

Just getting frustrated.... I have only got 400 miles on it since getting it... and there has been a ton more frustration with this than any other car Ive had..

Where am I going wrong with the no start issue?

Thanks in advance!
Fred

 

The CKP is a 3 wire Hall Effect sensor…did you check the wiring before installing the sensor ??…there is a 12 volt reference, a signal wire, and a low reference (ground). Also did you use an OEM sensor (AC Delco) ???

 

no I did not check the wiring... I assumed it was ok as it still looked great there and there is not a lot of movement. I can double check it when I pull the starter back out. Is this something I use my multi meter on? +12v... ground and what do I check on the 3rd wire? I did not use a AC Delco sensor... all I could get was a Carquest CS1052. I have a AC delco on order and will replace it when I go back in to pull the starter. Is it worth just replacing the starter? Ive seen youtube videos about the newer style with 2 long bolts instead of the long/short one I have in there now? Also is there programming for the sensor that needs to be done? Somewhere I saw it had to relearn it.... what do I need to make that happen.

Thanks! Fred

 

Well you know what they say about "assuming" ???...once the starter is out and the CKP connector is unplugged and key ON or OFF you should see 12 volts on the light green wire...you should see less than .1 volt (100mv) on the yellow/black wire reference ground wire...checking the signal is a little tougher...you can take a jumper wire (bypass test) from the 12 volt feed wire (light green) and briefly touch the dark blue/white wire and you should hear the fuel pump turn on momentarily and the injectors and coil packs may energize...car has only 75K so it's just broken in so no need to replace the starter...but while you are down there I'd remove all the wires on the solenoid and clean them with a small wire brush or emery cloth and reinstall. and tighten...the negative battery cable is connected to the block in that area so I'd clean that also...the PCM ground should also be attached there. You will need to do a "crank variation relearn after changing the sensor and a Tech 2 or any bidirectional scan tool can do this...a shop should be able to handle this for a few bucks...the crank sensor is the PCM's "misfire monitor" so you don't want to have any false misfires popping up so this is up to you to do.

 

Hello Fred. Just ran into an almost identical issue. I'm having the car towed today to a reputable dealer, however, I was interested to see if by replacing the sensor replaced (and wiring corrected) if it fixed your issue. Thanks in advance for your reply!

 

So here is what happened... I towed the car in to a local shop for repair... the starter was shot (they showed me and it actually rattled)- and I had it wired correctly. They replaced that. Still no start. Next they traced the wiring and they said the only other thing on there is the cam sensor (which isn't throwing codes) but when they pulled it out - it was split and burnt badly. So they replaced that too and now it started. I got it back and it would randomly crank and no start but as soon as I tried again it started right up, and driving it within 2 days the check engine light was on now... I took it back and they double checked everything and said the check engine light is for my knock sensors... so we replaced both and the wiring harness pigtail for them - while there I had them put on my LS6 intake (because mine is a 2000 with the standard LS1 intake). So I got the car back and it runs great and still randomly gets the crank no start issue - but ALWAYS fires up on the 2nd try. And there are no codes in it either. So next I put on my Callaway air intake and took it to my tuner - hoping he could tell me whats up with the random crank no start then fire up 2nd time. It did it once there for him and he checked everything and told me it is the crank sensor/ cam sensor relearn did not take right... and he told me could do the procedure too and wouldn't guarantee it would fix it... he said some cars are just super picky about it and not to worry about it - it is not hurting anything. He told me he could do the procedure 10 times and it may or may not go away. Anyways he tuned the car and its running great. He also told me that if my crank position sensor was the only thing that died it can be replaced by a home mechanic and will run after but will throw the check engine light until it is officially paired to the car in the computer. And he also told me don't freak out about the cam sensor because they do tend to crack, and once they get oil in them (due to location) they do burn up and stink - like mine did. So the car is currently running great, I just bought new tires and added tpms from TPMS24/7 and they worked great for a week then I lost all of the tire pressures.... but the car still runs great... and if I can't see my tire pressures I am fine with that as long as it keeps running. So anyways I hope this helps... lots of info here