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You have to clarify what you mean by not going into reverse by describing what's happening when you try to go into reverse. It could be the reverse gear solenoid, easy fix or the transmission itself, big fix
Sounds like you're about to throw the baby out with the bath water. As others have said, there's some diagnosis work to be done before condemning the whole transmission.
Check the reverse lockout solenoid. It's a plug toward the top of the transmission, near the shifter. If your "difficult to get into reverse" condition involves a lot of lateral force to push it over to the right to get into R, it's likely an issue with the lockout. Disconnect the lockout solenoid wire and see if that changes anything.
If it's difficult to push forward up into the reverse gear it may be an issue with the shifter, not the transmission.
It IS entirely likely that you have an internal failure with the transmission as well. Drain the fluid and look for any metallic bits or glitter that could indicate damage. Replace the fluid with fresh ATF. If that doesn't fix the issue, then I'd start thinking it's time to pull the transmission out.
Look into repairing/rebuilding your existing transmission. There are several very reputable shops that specialize in the T56. It is likely that it will be cheaper to send your existing unit off for repair vs buying a whole new/rebuilt transmission.
Can you live with "it is really hard to get into reverse"? Since owning my '04 M6 for 7 years, I always had some issue with reverse. This continued after installing a MGW shift'r. My work-around is to put the trans in neutral and wiggle the heck of it and then it goes in without issues.
Can you live with "it is really hard to get into reverse"? Since owning my '04 M6 for 7 years, I always had some issue with reverse. This continued after installing a MGW shift'r. My work-around is to put the trans in neutral and wiggle the heck of it and then it goes in without issues.
My GTO is a pain in the *** to get into reverse. I think it's a reverse lockout that isn't working properly. It takes way more force than it should to push the stick over. I just don't drive the car enough to motivate me to actually fix it.
Can you live with "it is really hard to get into reverse"? Since owning my '04 M6 for 7 years, I always had some issue with reverse. This continued after installing a MGW shift'r. My work-around is to put the trans in neutral and wiggle the heck of it and then it goes in without issues.
Same here. I had a B&M shifter that made it very hard to get reverse. I went the TMOD box/C6 shifter rout and it’s far far better, but I still need to put in another gear first…sometimes…before it drops into reverse. I can live with that.
I have had to replace two transmissions in 190,000 miles.
The first time it wouldn't go into reverse, forward gears fine. I read on this forum that it could be a pad on the shift fork, but the shop couldn't or wouldn't find this (no Corvette specialty or transmission shops near my small town), so I ended up with a rebuilt.
A couple years later, on a road trip, it was shifting with difficulty in forward gears, then I discovered no reverse when turning around. It was dripping oil and obviously overheated. Came to find out it was hot enough that the plastic breather fitting on top of the transmission was melted. This was at a small town in Nevada, so I ended up with having to take a rental car home, and returning when they got another rebuilt transmission installed.
Well, Everybody wants to troubleshoot my transmission and not really answer my question so I'll go along with this. The seller of the car said there was nothing wrong with the car. But I felt the shifting wasn't quite right. So I got out of him that yes indeed the transmission had been worked on. Where he really messed up was giving me the number to the transmission shop. So I called them. I was told that the parts needed to fix it was not available so they did a get-by fix so he could sell the car. I plan on taking the car to a transmission shop in a town not too far away to have them take a look at it. Until then I was preparing for the worse case which is replacing the transmission. And if that is the case my question still stands. I have unfinished business with the seller.
If you're referring to the "what else" question that you posed, I'd say 100% for sure replace the slave cylinder (always a good idea). Install a remote bleeder while you're there. Master cylinder is unrelated to the rest of the clutch system and can be done at any time without needing the kind of access that you need for the slave. For the clutch and flywheel-- definitely inspect them, but I wouldn't jump straight to replacement unless it looks like it's necessary. Other thing to look at is your torque tube bearings, couplers, and general condition. While you've got it out (if it does indeed need to come out) it might be the time to rebuild the TT if it looks necessary.
Thanks, Napoleon would replacing the clutch be a good idea and if so could you recommend a particular clutch? What about the rear main seal?
If you want to throw potentially unnecessary money at it, you're not going to be wrong to replace the clutch. As far as what I would recommmend--- whooooooo boy now you're opening a huge can of worms. Guys will ride and die over clutches. I have a Spec Stage 1 in my car. It's on an LS3 making ~420 or so to the wheels, and I have absolutely zero complaints. There will be plenty to come along and tell you that Spec is trash and you should buy Monster, and then someone will tell you that Monster is trash and to buy THEIR favorite brand. This cycle will continue forever. Just pick one that meets your requirements and ignore everyone else.
As far as the rear main-- I'd recommend changing that only IF you're taking the clutch and flywheel off, or if you suspect a leak. If you already have access to it via removing the flywheel it's a "why not" kind of deal. If it's not leaking and you're not replacing the clutch it might not be worth removing the clutch and flywheel to get at it. Then again, Mr Murphy might show up right after you put everything back together, so it's really your call
The transmission in my 2002 corvette is having a problem. It is really hard to get into reverse. I'm am thinking I will replace it and was wondering what else should be done at this time. Clutch, slave and master and bleeder. And what do you wish you had done while this is being done. Also what clutch kit did you use? Should the main seal be replaced?
You should definitely replace the main seal at the same time. You also should at least inspect the torque tube couplers and bearings while it's out -- regardless of mileage, I'm afraid. The couplers are fabric reinforced rubber, and the rubber tends to lose flexibility with age. When I replaced my clutch, I used a genuine GM LS1 replacement set, which cost quite a lot for a stock clutch, and took several months to arrive (GM strike time frame). If I were doing it over again I would save my pennies and go with either the LUK 04-905 or the Scoggin Dickey LS7 clutch package. Probably the Scoggin Dickey.
I am having a corvette transmission shop put in a used transmission that has a 3 yr warranty. Haven't yet decided on what clutch kit with flywheel but looking at the Scoggin Dickey LS7 clutch package. I will just have to trust the shop to inspect the tt and the rear main seal. What else should I do or not do? And as always any input will be appreciated.
Did they actually diagnose the issue? Or are you just going to jump into spending a LOT of money for something that may not be terminal on that transmission? I'm sure they'd be more than happy to take your money, but you should try to avoid wasting it on an unnecessary job in the first place.
Nah, I'm done with you. You came to a conclusion and decided that's the way it was going to be. You rejected people genuinely trying to help, so best of luck to you.
I (and several others who replied to this thread) "continually beat a dead horse" by trying to help you diagnose an issue with your car? That's a good one. You strike me as a self-absorbed ***** who is too good and too smart to listen to anyone else because you're smarter than everyone and they need to know how much smarter you are. So now you're acting ridiculously entitled that people should provide you advice on what additional parts to load into the parts cannon to fire at your car, despite two decades of thread history on this site and elsewhere detailing exactly the kind of questions you're demanding personalized answers to.
Get over yourself. I won't be surprised to see you back in short order blaming the shop for doing shoddy work when your new-to-you used transmission also has issues, or it doesn't fix the original issue you had because you were too good and too smart to bother with a proper diagnosis.
I am having a corvette transmission shop put in a used transmission that has a 3 yr warranty. Haven't yet decided on what clutch kit with flywheel but looking at the Scoggin Dickey LS7 clutch package. I will just have to trust the shop to inspect the tt and the rear main seal. What else should I do or not do? And as always any input will be appreciated.
Thats where I bought my LS7 kit. About 500 miles later now, and works perfect. My car has 27000 miles and I did not change the rear seal.
You may notice the clutch pedal closer to the floor for a while, but it will make its way up to the normal position in a few hundred miles or so. Some suggest to go 500 miles before you go hard, but I couldn’t wait that long.
I had my shop install a Katech remote bleeder wrapped with a DEI heat sleeve. I also had them install a new master cylinder along with the new slave. I just didn’t want any chance of crud left anywhere in the hydraulic system, and stock masters are not that expense. That’s just me…
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