It's not an 'if or" situation when running a bigger cam with FI. Unless one opts for a monster cam like 240/250+. Then going FI may be a questionable next step.

I have what some here would consider a large cam. However in reality it's a "mild cam" @ 232/236/113. It sounds awesome and took to FI very well. Car makes 226 more HP at the wheels over the cammed setup on 93 pump gas and 10psi. I more than doubled the stock HP at the wheels with only 10psi on pump gas..

Richard Holdner has great YouTube content on running FI on cammed cars. The outcome in every instance is beneficial going with bigger cam before boosting. You need big NA power to get big reliable FI power. Starting with a cam and heads is step one.

 

What's the difference in sound between a stock LS1 CAM and the LS6 Cam? Also, what's the sound difference between a LS6 CAM and a Hot CAM?

 

Sound variance between stock LS1 and LS6 is nothing. They are both quiet.

LS hot cam has bigger intake and exhaust duration with 112 lobe separation. But less lift. It will sound a lot better than the stock LS6 cam.

 

Thanks. Just like the LS6 Cam, I understand that the GH Hot Cam also uses the LS6 valve springs. Would the GM Hot Cam require any additional modifications or parts, assuming it is paired up with the 3.73 rear gears?

 

Just realized your not far from me if you still in new jersey

 

Such an open ended question. I tend to get out of control even when it's my owm budget.

I say the cam, the springs, a new balancer (if it's OEM) and I would do the timing chain while you are in there.

 

Indeed I am still in NJ. Grew up next to Action Park. Spent a few years out in CA but did my time and came back. Now down in Plainfield.

Where are you?

 

Edison

 

+1 for a bigger cam than the LS6.
WS6Store has a "high lift hot cam" that has the same durations as the original but 600/600 lift.
I seen a ton of posts from people who are happy with the 224/224 and 228/228 cams from TSP.
I went with 232/234 @ 112 and while it made me happy I'm not sure it's for everyone, that's where the tradeoffs of larger cams start to become noticeable.

Consider staying with stock headers, getting a nice increase in power from the cam now, and optionally do headers and retune in the future if you still want more power.

 

Snap! Right next door to me. Maybe we will cross paths out in the wild this coming Spring.

 

I ran a 228/228/112 for a few years and really liked it. Then my new engine builder told me..."I like to tell clients whatever cam they think is best...I reccomend they bump it up some." That's how I landed where i am now.

A gear change with your cam will be a major compliment. If you haven't done so I promise 100% you will be stoked once you do.

 

Hot cam - 219/228 .525/.525. GM recommends their performance heads. A bit lumpier idle.

LS6 Power Max Plus - 220/222 .570/.570. 2500 stall, 3.73 gears, upgraded PAC 1218 springs recommended. Has a noticeable idle. With headers this cam was just shy of 450 crank hp.

This is getting interesting.

 

Do either the GM Hot Cam or LS6 Power Max Plus require a new stall?

 

Probably borderline, which means yes. This is where it’s tricky with an auto vs a manual trans. I’ve never read good reviews about the hot cam, and folks in the forum have not supported it in the posts I’ve read, anyway. Probably because it’s low lift.

Seems a lot of people want a kick *** cam with high end numbers. I’ve been there too, but a different agenda these days. I do mostly neighborhood driving, and occasionally Blvd speeds. The low gears will provide the g force I’ll enjoy often enough, and a mild cam with enough top end to wind the engine up on those occasions it’s safe to do so. Basically a local driver that will walk away from just about anything through an intersection and then some.

 

I'm guilty of the not supporting the HC. Even though I just recommended it to the OP. I think there are a select few which this cam would be the ideal grind, and he fits the description.......

 

Most critical item out of all of this cam/converter discussion. Don't buy a cheap junk no name converter. Buying quality like Yank or Vig or Circle D etc is expensive but well worth it. The right converter will make everything better. I really like my Yank 3200 in my 3,100 pound C3 72 vette even with the 3.08 gears. Drives practically like stock because it's a nice tight converter.

As for cams lots of excellent choices. My first LS1 cam was a custom 224/224 .581/.581 113 +4. Two weeks after installing, I wished I'd gone slightly bigger. Have said many times 224 or bigger otherwise waste of time and expense for an LS1/LS6. That's not exactly true anymore with all the excellent dual patter cams available these days. However, definitely not a supporter of the GM Hot Cam idles rougher, drives worse and makes less power, stinks badly w/o cats than an obsolete 224/224 single pattern. The high lift versions of the hot cam 🔥 🥵 are better but then they'd just about have to be!

Something like Summits Stage 1 Pro LS Ghost Cam. 222/233 115+3, .600/.575 Lift, Ultimate Stealth Cam should work well.
Manufacturer's Part Number: SUM-8715
The Summit Stage 1 Ghost cam has slightly negative valve overlap and works great as a sleeper/stealth cam. Although a stock converter can be used, a 2500-2800 rpm stall converter is recommended. It also works great as a turbo cam. It has state-of-the-art lobe designs stable to well over 7000 rpm with as little as 150 lbs. of seat pressure. Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,800-6,800

 

Not sure why one would need/want such a high revving cam for a street-only car.

For example, an A4 in front of a 3.73 gear @ 6500 is traveling at 94 mph in 2nd gear!
In 3rd gear at that rpm it’s running 138 mph…

Those speeds are flat out irresponsible on a street environment. So, why deal with the extra expense and characteristics of a top end cam when it’s not close to safe to use that top end on the street?

 

Spot on! But then I expect that from you. 😊

 

You have to remember...just because it's not for you doesn't mean others don't enjoy it...and it definitely doesn't automatically mean it's intended for irresponsible driving habits. Think of all the high horsepower C6 and C7 ZRI cars owned by granny shifting old timers as garage decorations.

With that logic why would anyone buy a C8 Z06, a Porsche GT3, a Lamborghini Huracan, Mclaren 570S, Ferrari 458, Audi R8 V10, Lexus LFA, Aerial Atom, or any other high revving car?

Because they are an awesome driving experience, that's why.

Frankly the same logic could apply from a hyper conservative perspective on why any of us own a C5 corvette capable of 170+mph.

 

Yes, you don’t need to drive a Porsche 100mph to appreciate the fabulous nature of the car. I agree with you there, so allow me to put things into context.

The discussion was not about appreciating a rare or sophisticated automobile and it’s performance potential, so allow me to put that aside for the time being. More specifically, it was about cam/gear selections without expensive supporting mods for a street only car to achieve better acceleration driving around town.

My point is that a mild cam has all the qualities to meet that criteria when mated with a lower gear ratio. The opposing view supported cams where any additional benefits/power occur at much higher rpm’s, ie., speeds.

Reaching race track level speeds was not the goal from the outset, nor street safe by any reasonable standards. In other words, the bigger cam and supporting mods were expensive and unusable for the stated goals.

As you might have noticed, my nature is for strong focus on stated goals. Sometimes people state goals, but they intended them as guide lines, or jump off points. So is the nature of forums.