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So, I went out for drive today. I was experiencing some loose steering issues and read about maybe the bolt on the steering column could be loose. Sure enough it was and steering is good now.
However, I stopped to check the pullies for some whining noises to narrow down the squeaky wheel. The first thing I saw as the balancer bolt wobbling, a lot. The balancer itself was solid, no wobble.
Engine is an LQ9 block bored to 6.22. I bought the car after previous owner di the swap. The balancer is Summit balancer.
My questions are,
1) What would/could cause this to happen?
2) How do I fix this?
It is an ARP bolt. Hopefully it simply wasn't torqued correctly and not broken.
Man i hate to hear that i went with an arp bolt too replaced the balancer a few weeks ago and torqued it to 235 ftlbs no loctite just with the arp lube it recommends hope i dont have the same issue. Oreillys rents to 250ftlb torque wrench hard to find.
Man i hate to hear that i went with an arp bolt too replaced the balancer a few weeks ago and torqued it to 235 ftlbs no loctite just with the arp lube it recommends hope i dont have the same issue. Oreillys rents to 250ftlb torque wrench hard to find.
I'll have to get one. I'll probably just go ahead and get a new bolt. Praying that the one in there didn't walk out because it snapped. (Can't really imagine that happening, but you never know) I have new ARH headers with catted pipe coming in this week. I have Bilsteins to put on as well.
Then on top of all of this, I spent the warm day driving with the top off. went to pull it out and the damn corner piece snapped off.
This is the one I should've walked away from. But now it's either sell it to someone looking to build an all out track car, or make it my mission to make it a respectable street car.
I'll have to get one. I'll probably just go ahead and get a new bolt. Praying that the one in there didn't walk out because it snapped. (Can't really imagine that happening, but you never know) I have new ARH headers with catted pipe coming in this week. I have Bilsteins to put on as well.
Then on top of all of this, I spent the warm day driving with the top off. went to pull it out and the damn corner piece snapped off.
This is the one I should've walked away from. But now it's either sell it to someone looking to build an all out track car, or make it my mission to make it a respectable street car.
Im wondering if it indeed is loose… For example, could it have been cross threaded, or could you see it flopping? Second, far worse, are the crank threads damaged.
Hopefully mine is torqued correctly. I used the cheap flywheel locking tool and tightened it all the way seated with the balancer install tool and the original bolt torqued to 235ft lbs then removed the original tty bolt and installed the new arp bolt to 235ftlbs. Oreillys loan a tool is the only 1/2" that goes to 250 ftlbs 108$ nice torque wrench.
Im wondering if it indeed is loose… For example, could it have been cross threaded, or could you see it flopping? Second, far worse, are the crank threads damaged.
Either way, I hope it’s nothing more than loose.
It was walking it's way out. I could see it flopping.
Once you've got it disconnected from everything and out of it's mounts why not get it out of the way entirely? You do (usually) have to drop the cradle an inch or two to get it out so I guess that is what time you are saving. Dropping the cradle an inch or two is really not a biggie.
Some people move it toward the passenger side just far enough. Others prefer to just pull it out.
Yeah, I haven't really gotten under it to see. Just thought I'd ask. I was thinking, hoping that I could just take the mounting bolts out and drop it the 1/2 inch or so to just get at the crank bolt. Not really looking forward to disconnecting lines and tie rod ends. You know?
Yeah, I haven't really gotten under it to see. Just thought I'd ask. I was thinking, hoping that I could just take the mounting bolts out and drop it the 1/2 inch or so to just get at the crank bolt. Not really looking forward to disconnecting lines and tie rod ends. You know?
Oh yeah. Just finished a weekend job that took me a month, LOL.
Oh yeah. Just finished a weekend job that took me a month, LOL.
Yep, same thing when I did the clutch on my old '96. I've got a set of new ARH headers and catted mid-pipe coming today, and Bilstein shocks to put on it as well.
Where I'm lucky here is that all of this stuff has been off within the last year or so, so I'm not fighting 24 year old fasteners.
Yeah, I haven't really gotten under it to see. Just thought I'd ask. I was thinking, hoping that I could just take the mounting bolts out and drop it the 1/2 inch or so to just get at the crank bolt. Not really looking forward to disconnecting lines and tie rod ends. You know?
I can certainly understand that, but the issue is that the steering rack is right in front of the balancer. You can slip an offset box wrench in there, but you don't have much range of motion, and you'd NEVER get the required torque on the bolt.
So, I went out for drive today. I was experiencing some loose steering issues and read about maybe the bolt on the steering column could be loose. Sure enough it was and steering is good now.
However, I stopped to check the pullies for some whining noises to narrow down the squeaky wheel. The first thing I saw as the balancer bolt wobbling, a lot. The balancer itself was solid, no wobble.
Engine is an LQ9 block bored to 6.22. I bought the car after previous owner di the swap. The balancer is Summit balancer.
My questions are,
1) What would/could cause this to happen?
2) How do I fix this?
Where did u have ur pistons made??. I think those are the biggest custom pistons i ever seen made???
Where did u have ur pistons made??. I think those are the biggest custom pistons i ever seen made???
I didn't build this thing. I bought it because of engine swap. I probably should've just walked away from this one. I think I'm just going to name it 'Rescue Vette'.