What transcoolers are you auto guys using and just air cooled or with a pusher fan infront? The bigger size is better and what brand? Are there adapter fittings that screw into the radiator with 3/8" hose barbs or npt threads on one end and stock line fittings attachments with 3/8" hose barbs so you dont have to hack into the stock lines. You can just cut both transcooler lines at the hose section splice them with straights or elbows so no kinks and use a 3/8" metal joint to reattach them if deciding not to keep the transcooler. I found my trans temps getting up to 208 degrees after a 1 hour trip running errands normal driving so it does take some time for the radiator transcooler to get the trans fluid up to temp. Would a 160 thermostat work as the engine should run cooler as well as radiator to not heat up the trans fluid as hot. Whats trans temp is normal for 1/4 mile racing and what temp will it cause damage to the transmission. Is cooler fluid say 160-180 safer on the trans and help it live longer? Ive seen the hayden or similar coolers advertise 30 degree lower trans fluid temps. FYI i run a stock converter on a stock trans cammed car and trying to make the stock transmission and converter last.

Does anyone have photos of theirs and how they ran the lines attached cooler to condenser?

 

I mounted mine in the front license plate area. Used B&M 70264, no fan, ordered with AN fittings, can get them with barbed, too. I DON'T RECOMMEND mounting where I did, though, due to unwanted heating of the intake air.......

 

Did you simply cut the rubber part of the radiator transcooler lines to add the external cooler? Mind sharing pics of yours from underneath? The radiator shroud should block the air filter from getting hot air. Yours is mounted infront of the condenser with those push lock clips thru condenser fins or frame brackets? If im not mistaken the flow is thru the bottom of radiator and out the top back to the transmission?

I see vs having a bunch of rubber hose that could kink would it work to run 3/8" aluminum fuel line with a regular tubing bender to get the lines close and just simply connect line with 3/8" rubber hose clamp to barb on transcooler. For carb engines it holds the standard holley red/blue pump fuel psi maybe 10psi. How many psi does the transmission fluid flow at?

 

If 97 - 2000 it is the screw in style lines. You can use Imperial transmission line fitting kit # 240390 from Advance Auto or other places. It gives you a fitting to screw on the radiator with a barbed end and a screw on fitting for the original line going to the radiator. I use these on my car and the cooler has the barbed ends for the rubber hoses. I just replaced all of my rubber hoses for the aftermarket cooler and remote filter I added. It was about 11 years old and I had no issues but wanted to ensure that I kept it that way. Everything works well and trans runs nice and cool. There will be mixed reviews on temps but most places say under 200 is good. It is all on fluid and filter maintenance and how you drive it when it comes to longevity of the trans life.

 

Mine is a 99 so the kit includes both sides so you don't have the cut the hoses. Barnes for the radiator screw in and stock line attachments would require a set of set Imperial transmission line fitting kit # 240390
yeah those fittings looks nice at 12.99$ maybe use aluminum 3/8" fuel line to run to the cooler hose barb connections. That b&m cooler wont stop fluid flow correct i mean or restrict it burning up trans pump till its hot enough to flow thru. All the finned cooler lines look the same unless its a smaller orifice port in the cooler.

 

I used a B&M 70266 stacked plate cooler.
Fabbed up a bracket that mounts to the lower core support. Right side of the radiator.

I got rid of the factory hard lines just past the starter. -6 AN hose from there to the cooler. I eliminated the radiator from the system.

Very clean install, trans rarely sees even 175 degrees. Yank SS3600 converter.

Did that in 2013

 

Thanks ron for your input i questioned having the transcooler go thru the radiator as well. Is yours mostly a track car or daily driver? I talked to tsp they informed me that the radiator already gets the trans fluid up to 200 degrees or whatever the coolant runs at and recommended installing it after it enters the radiator. Mine did get up to 208 degrees with the coolant running 199 degrees after an hour long trip thru the city in 80 degree weather. Last nite it was around 180 degrees but it was 40 degrees outside. I should've went with a 160 t-stat but did a 186 stock from what i read at 186 is when they start to open and 10+ degrees later are fully open. I do have the stock converter which i read is good to 450 crank hp the stock clutch similar to the fti economy 2800 stahl 630$ converter. May i ask if higher stahl converters cause higher trans temps?

Does your cooler have the bypass orifice restriction thermostat that lets fluid flow thru only one area until its up to temp? Im questioning what the best cooler would be to put and affordable. Anyone else bypass the radiator cooler for an aftermarket i think even tsp maybe mentioned bypassing it but not sure if he meant for racing purposes or DD use. I was looking at z06 diffs 3.42s and they are way up there 1200$+ on ebay. Stock 2.73-3.15s are the 400$-800$ diffs. TDP told me 400$ to install gear but for c5s gears are 400$-600$ vs other cars gears just under 200$ i think its c5 mark up. The only other mods are gears and a free flowing exhaust that i can think of. I did want to put a wideband, 160 stat, transcooler as well.
Total flow wont have their 2.5" 4" length minibullits back in stock till april so i may wait to get the tailpipes done at a local muffler shop.

 

I daily drive it in the summer.
And drag race it a fair amount as well.

You can manually shift 1-2 no problem.
Can’t really manual shift 2-3.
Here is why.
Once you stick it in 3, it’s in automatic mode. So it’s looking to the ecu for the shift rpm. So you think a 6500 rpm shift would be nice. The tune thinks it should shift lower. So it never sees the shift rpm because you went past it in 2.
It will just go to the rev limiter.
Its looking for both mph and rpm.

Maybe some tuners know how to set it up manual? I’ve not heard that it can be done.

This only applies to full throttle. Part throttle works fine. Shift away.

3 and D are auto shift mode.
I drag mine in D

 

I also used #6 AN hose, like Ron did. I don't recommend mounting where I did, because it required a lot of modding of the front Styrofoam pad to allow for airflow. I made my own stainless mesh screen cover, with material from Grainger. It did turn out nice, and looks good, if I do say so myself!! However, some of this heated air does find its way to the intake, as measured on the IAT by my old Predator handheld tuner. Ron did it better than I did. Bottom line, yes, mine does a great job cooling, and I have a 3,200 stall Yank. But it also does a great job heating the intake air charge, which I should have given more thought......

 

I went with a Derale Atomic-Cool remote fan mounted transmission cooler mounted under the driver headlight area. I run the lazy-eyes headlight and as I don’t track it removed the brake vents no issues. Passenger side has my blow off valve. The cooler was around 307.00.