As we all know, the #7 spark plug on the LS1 can be a bitch to work with. I'm currently wrapping up a project where I swapped out my radiator, hoses, belts, water pump, stat, belts, and spark plugs/wires. Everything is pretty much buttoned up with the last remaining item being the ol' #7 spark plug. After struggling to get the new plug installed, I was finally able to lock it in via a long swivel socket. Now I need to get the plug wire attached. I can get it on the plug with the wire and metal sleeve/spring but I'm not able to reach in and twist it on with any type of leverage in order for it to click onto the spark plug like I did for the other 7 plugs.

Any tips, tricks, or tools for this plug wire without removing all the other brake plumbing, etc.?

 

It's been a while since I did plugs/wires, but for that process I know I used this set of hose pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...ers-37909.html

 

Thanks. I have a similar set that I used to pull out the wires, but they really haven't helped in trying to push in the wire enough to connect to the plug. I don't have enough leverage.

 

I used to struggle with number 7 plug, even with the double-swivel SnapOn socket. But following the advice of others here, I started removing the coil pack and the the brake booster vacuum hose and it was a lot easier to get my big hand down there to get the plug in and out and make sure the wire snaps on to the plug. A little more time to remove the coil pack but it is worth it. You can use a small wrench to get to the bolt behind the alternator so you don't have to remove it.

 

Have you lubricated the inside of the boot with a little dielectric grease? That will also help the boot slide up the plug so you can push and the connector will snap on.

I don't know your procedure, but pieces of fuel hose can sometimes be invaluable when trying to start/remove plugs. In addition to starting them and giving you a little something to hang onto, you can turn them in until the plug seats and they will "twist" off. When removing a very hard to reach plug you can break it loose and unscrew it with the fuel line.

 

Thanks for all the advice. After multiple, stops and starts, I was finally able to get the plug wire/boot seated and connected on #7. I used some silicone dielectric grease on all the wires both at the spark plug and at the coil pack. To pay this thread forward to other members, after positioning the wire and aluminum boot/spring over the plug, I used an automotive trim tool that had a wide enough fork on it to allow the wire to sit in between. I was then able to apply enough even pressure to push the wire and connect onto the plug without damaging the wire. Usually I try to twist as well as push when installing the wires, but I had enough grease to get it done, plus the wires were new which helped. Lesson learned so when I do this again (in 10 years) I will remove the coil packs and vacuum lines to make access easier. It took me longer on the removal and install of the #7 plug and wire than it did for the other seven plugs and wires combined!

 

I can't speak for others, but IMHO, this is a damn good reason to spring for some LT headers!!!

 

Timely thread even though it's a few months old. I'm tackling the same project. I got 1, 3 and 5 done and went to the other side. 2 and 4 weren't terribly bad but I cannot get the old wire off the #6 plug no matter what I do. I've tried channel locks and and a plug wire tool to no avail. I've run out of ideas and leverage both. And the #7 looks like it will be really fun.
I did spray silicone lube in the wire boots and made it easier to slide on the plugs.
Any advice? Keep pulling?

 

If brute force isn't working, you aren't using enough.

 

If you're not planning to reuse the old wires, just grip it a rip it! If you plan to reuse them, you need to continue to twist/turn in order to remove it undamaged.

 

Keep pulling with a twist, I just replaced spark plugs on my car, that number 1 and 7 can be tricky. I didn't need any special tools, I did however lean over the engine from the passenger side to get enough leverage to push the boot on good old #7.

 

could be

I am replacing the wires. One on the other side did rip out but then I had to fight to get the terminal off the end of the plug. Guess I'll just pull some more and see what happens. Thanks.

 

Problem is it's so cramped I can't get enough room to twist hardly at all. Gonna go fight with it again.

 

First you must make a sacrifice to the God of Internal Combustion



I got all but 7 and 8 done. I hate to give up but it's going to the shop for the last two. At least it runs OK so I did get six installed correctly.

 

Wouldn't it be nice to have nice long slender fingers and smaller paws, this is coming from someone who refers to his hands as meat paws. Hang in there, I have confidence in you.

 

One of the best tools in my toolbox are a few sets of tough fiber mechanics gloves. I use the disposable rubber gray ones for oil and fluid changes, but the fiber mechanics gloves whenever I'm reaching into the engine and doing other serious torque wrenching.

 

I've tried but they just reduce my sense of touch. Which ones do you like? I do use the disposables for oil changes.

 

Well, I got #8 done this morning but I just don't know if I want to tackle 7 or not. I had a 0300 code, it was probably #7

 

Remove coil pack cover if you haven't already, and vacuum hose from brake booster canister.

 

I will do that tomorrow