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I have a stock engine/manual transmission '99 FRC with ~188K miles. The clutch still works fine at the moment and everything runs smooth, but I know eventually I'll have to replace it. I also have a small transmission fluid leak between the differential and trans since I've had the car. I'm finally starting to get tired of having to lift the car and top off the trans fluid every 1-2 months and would like to get fixed all in one shot with the clutch. I understand from my research that I should install a remote bleeder and slave cylinder when replacing the clutch. I'll be giving my car to a Corvette performance shop to do the labor and would like to supply the parts. I'm not too familiar with transmission work in general, would you guys be able to help me put together a parts list so I can start putting aside money for it? I would very much prefer to keep the stock clutch feel since I'm so used to it. It's my daily driver but I also have several suspension mods/roll bar/big brakes/cooling mods for the occasional track day. If there is a clutch that holds higher power (for potential future engine mods) but with similar stock clutch feel, please let me know . Thanks.
One thing I can recommend, from a recent experience. If you are going to get the torque tube out, Unless you have already, go ahead and plan on a torque tube rebuild, new couplers at the least.
Now, if you're taking it to a shop, hopefully a specialist on these cars, I would really have this conversation before ordering anything on your own.
Currently in the middle of having clutch, torque tube refresh and transmission replacement. Daily driving 03 Z06 and since I'm not planning power upgrades I went with Tick LS7 complete clutch kit since it is all inclusive but they have a variety of different clutch combinations depending on HP/TQ. LS7 Complete Clutch & Hydraulic Upgrade Package for 1997-2004 Corvette & Z06 | Tick Performance Also had issue with leaky transmission and grinding of gears now and then. Most auto shops around here do not rebuild transmissions so I got a general message of "we'll remove transmission for $XXXX and send to transmission shop where they'll tear it down and then give cost to rebuild...probably another $XXXX." I ended up buying RPM level 4 T56 transmission instead since a standard rebuild would cost aboot $2000-$3000. T56 - Level IV - RPM Transmissions and torque tube rebuild kit with Billet couplers Torque Tube Bearing Rebuild Kit - RPM Transmissions
Thanks for the info everyone. I'm keeping notes, so if anyone else wanna share their clutch/transmission repair story/parts list/cost, looking forward to it!
Currently in the middle of having clutch, torque tube refresh and transmission replacement. Daily driving 03 Z06 and since I'm not planning power upgrades I went with Tick LS7 complete clutch kit since it is all inclusive but they have a variety of different clutch combinations depending on HP/TQ. LS7 Complete Clutch & Hydraulic Upgrade Package for 1997-2004 Corvette & Z06 | Tick Performance Also had issue with leaky transmission and grinding of gears now and then. Most auto shops around here do not rebuild transmissions so I got a general message of "we'll remove transmission for $XXXX and send to transmission shop where they'll tear it down and then give cost to rebuild...probably another $XXXX." I ended up buying RPM level 4 T56 transmission instead since a standard rebuild would cost aboot $2000-$3000. T56 - Level IV - RPM Transmissions and torque tube rebuild kit with Billet couplers Torque Tube Bearing Rebuild Kit - RPM Transmissions
When I had mine in to replace rear main and rebuild TT, I asked the guy about the billet couplers. He's been building these cars for awhile and he did not recommend them. He said that aside from the noise, the billet couplers have been known to tear up the housing.
When I had mine in to replace rear main and rebuild TT, I asked the guy about the billet couplers. He's been building these cars for awhile and he did not recommend them. He said that aside from the noise, the billet couplers have been known to tear up the housing.
Guess it's a little late now but good to know going forward. Is there a reason why billet couplers do this? the choices were either rubber or billet and I figure the billet would last longer.
Guess it's a little late now but good to know going forward. Is there a reason why billet couplers do this? the choices were either rubber or billet and I figure the billet would last longer.
My understand is that there may be very slight mis-alignment issues between the components of the torque tube, that the rubber couplers can compensate for, without issue. The billet couplers are a non-forgiving connection, so unless everything in the tube aligns "dead nuts", you'll have issues. But you are right, the billet couplers would last longer, if that was your only criteria.
Guess it's a little late now but good to know going forward. Is there a reason why billet couplers do this? the choices were either rubber or billet and I figure the billet would last longer.
Tight clearances, and there is some movement in the drive line. Pretty much why GM used the rubber couplers. The billet will last longer themselves, but if they meet the housing, the housing will get beat up. This guy specializes in high HP Corvettes, turbo, suercharged etc. He was pretty quick to talk me out of it. Given that the OEM are good for around 100k or so, I'm not too worried about it.