When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Mr. Black, not to steal this thread but what is "stockish" to you. The LS1 was rated around 350-360 HP if my memory serves and the LS7 was 505 HP, are you saying stock for the LS7 or the LS1? Thanks
Mr. Black, not to steal this thread but what is "stockish" to you. The LS1 was rated around 350-360 HP if my memory serves and the LS7 was 505 HP, are you saying stock for the LS7 or the LS1? Thanks
BY AND LARGE "LS7" IS A MARKETING THING, AND THERE IS NO FUNDAMENTAL DIFFERENCE
All LS clutches are the same in terms of how they mount to the drivetrain. Since the LS7 is the Z06 engine, you'll frequently see clutches marketed as "LS7" just because of name recognition. The fact of the matter is that the vast majority of aftermarket clutches can handle LS7 power or more, whether they say so or not. Keep an eye on the actual torque handling values for the clutch you're considering. I'd try to get a clutch that's rated for 25% or more of your planned maximum torque just to leave a safety margin in there, but clutch ratings usually have their own margin built in too. It's up to you, but don't listen to anyone telling you to buy a "LS7 clutch" as they're likely pretty ignorant.
Thanks, I just wandered into this thread as I still have my original clutch on my '01 but I'm doing a cam and heads in two weeks so we'll see if I need to upgrade at some point. I've had 5 manual transmission cars over the years and I've never killed a clutch but there is a first time for everything.
For those of you who have done this job, how would you rate the difficulty on a scale of 1-10? All Data says book time is about 9 hours on this; and I never expect to hit book time on the first go-around of something. For the heck of it, I got a quote from a semi-local Vette shop and they wanted $1700 for labor alone, which makes me think I'll just tackle this some weekend. Looks like there are no specialty tools needed (other than the included clutch alignment tool).
For those of you who have done this job, how would you rate the difficulty on a scale of 1-10? All Data says book time is about 9 hours on this; and I never expect to hit book time on the first go-around of something. For the heck of it, I got a quote from a semi-local Vette shop and they wanted $1700 for labor alone, which makes me think I'll just tackle this some weekend. Looks like there are no specialty tools needed (other than the included clutch alignment tool).
It's not super difficult, but you need some space. The entire driveline aft of the engine needs to come out. You'll need to figure out how to support/move it, and how you're going to get it back in. Having a helper really helps with getting it back in and lined up.
It's not super difficult, but you need some space. The entire driveline aft of the engine needs to come out. You'll need to figure out how to support/move it, and how you're going to get it back in. Having a helper really helps with getting it back in and lined up.
That's the gist of what I've seen. I have a lift and plenty of garage space, so I'm not worried about that. I will probably invest in a tranny jack, or I may just lower the car enough to have everything sit on jack-stands. I've got a buddy who is clutch (no pun intended) in these situations where you need help.
It wasn't too bad at all when I did mine. I also rebuilt my torque tube and changed my '04 fuel pumps while i had everything out of the way. I did it on jack stands, and everything was out in a couple of hours as a whole unit - cradle, trans / diff, and torque tube. When I reinstalled, the TT went in first, then the trans / diff, and then I brought the cradle up to it. It was the only way I could do it by myself and it was smooth.
It wasn't too bad at all when I did mine. I also rebuilt my torque tube and changed my '04 fuel pumps while i had everything out of the way. I did it on jack stands, and everything was out in a couple of hours as a whole unit - cradle, trans / diff, and torque tube. When I reinstalled, the TT went in first, then the trans / diff, and then I brought the cradle up to it. It was the only way I could do it by myself and it was smooth.
Wow, that's great you were able to do it yourself. I'm considering rebuilding the torque tube, even though I don't currently have any vibration or issues with it. How involved is the rebuild?
That’s a google search unto itself. Different years have different levels of complexity, in particular relative to the large snap ring on later years.
in all cases ensure you treat the inner shaft similar to a drive shaft, marking each component so that you maintain the balance as best possible.