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Also get service ride control message, and 80mph limit. This would come on at startup last fall, I had the battery out all winter, put it back in and still have this code.
All new shocks and I am certain I connected the wires at that time, pretty sure wires are still connected, but I haven't had the time to actually jack it up and look it over really well.
Since it comes up as LF solenoid circuit open on some 'sites, but RF suspension actuator circuit on others, I'm confused as to which is correct.
If it matters, I replaced the LF TPMS and forgot to reset it, but I did that and it works now.
Could this be something as simple as a fuse?
Thanks for any and all advice.
I guess it could be, but I would think other systems would also be affected.
I did look over the wiring and verified that the connections were good at the shock. I even pulled the overflow tank off the fender so I could get a good look at that side. I could see no problems.
I also checked the suspension level indicators and wiring, they all looked good.
I guess it could be, but I would think other systems would also be affected.
I did look over the wiring and verified that the connections were good at the shock. I even pulled the overflow tank off the fender so I could get a good look at that side. I could see no problems.
I also checked the suspension level indicators and wiring, they all looked good.
The DTC C0579 Left Front Solenoid Circuit Open. So the problem could be from the control module to the shock. I know when I did my shocks it was hard to tell if the connector was fully on and it was not to easy to connect it. If this is a new code since shock replacement I would triple check the connector. If you have a voltmeter you can read the ac voltage at the shock connector to ground with the key on. Not sure what it should be, but you can compare the right and left side. If there is no voltage then it could be a wiring issue and you will have to check the continuity to the module. Otherwise you can just swap the shocks. You can check see if the code follows the shock or stays with the position since it could be a bad shock.
Thank you, I should have thought of swapping them.
I'll also try getting a volt/ohm reading at each side.
I have the front up on jacks now getting ready to replace clutch master, so swapping the shocks will be easy.
Greetings. Did you get this sorted out? I replaced my front two magnetic shocks with the correct (and expensive) OEM replacements. Was getting no codes with the leaky and worn stockers, but now have C0579 and C0584 (open circuits on both fronts). The codes pop up pretty quickly after starting the car. The connections up top appear to be intact. I’m pulling my hair out!
I have not had the chance to swap them out yet. Planning to do it later this week.
Working on clutch master replace right now.
12 hour work days aren't fun, but it is how I could afford the 'Vette in the first place.
Greetings. Did you get this sorted out? I replaced my front two magnetic shocks with the correct (and expensive) OEM replacements. Was getting no codes with the leaky and worn stockers, but now have C0579 and C0584 (open circuits on both fronts). The codes pop up pretty quickly after starting the car. The connections up top appear to be intact. I’m pulling my hair out!
First off WELCOME to the Forum and second PLEASE fill out your profile...model year, mods, tune etc...there are sometimes wiring differences model year to model year...on your "new" shocks you can check the resistance using an ohm meter between the two shock terminals...you should see 9.5-15.5 ohms...if the resistance is good there is power coming into each shock so you can check that key ON...RF is a light blue wire on pin C12 at the ESC module...the LF is a gray wire on pin D12...now the ground is a pulse width modulated (PWM) ground and is controlled by the ESC module...you would need a bi directional scan tool to command the ESC to ground the circuit and you can check that with a test light OR a test light between each 2 pins...this way you check the power and the ground at the same time...if you need the pin out for those pin locations I can pass them along.
First off WELCOME to the Forum and second PLEASE fill out your profile...model year, mods, tune etc...there are sometimes wiring differences model year to model year...on your "new" shocks you can check the resistance using an ohm meter between the two shock terminals...you should see 9.5-15.5 ohms...if the resistance is good there is power coming into each shock so you can check that key ON...RF is a light blue wire on pin C12 at the ESC module...the LF is a gray wire on pin D12...now the ground is a pulse width modulated (PWM) ground and is controlled by the ESC module...you would need a bi directional scan tool to command the ESC to ground the circuit and you can check that with a test light OR a test light between each 2 pins...this way you check the power and the ground at the same time...if you need the pin out for those pin locations I can pass them along.
I would really like to know, how you proceed on this fault C0579. I do have the same fault on the C5 I just bought. The older previous owner had installed 4 new original shocks, about 2000 miles ago. Unfortunately he is not alive any more...
My next step would be to check/ measure the wiring from the shock to the ESC module. TheC0579 fault is explained quite good in the manual you might have downloaded here on the forum: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-manuals.html. >> Electronic Suspension.pdf
I gave up on it and am going to Z06 shocks. This does require a "deletion" of the F45 system in the computer, which requires a Tech2 programmer.
A decent automotive electrician could probably trace the wires, test the components, and find the problem, but I think that would be costly.
Thanks for the info. My car is a mostly stock (Borla Atak x-pipe/axle-back) ‘04. The ‘04, supposedly being a weird bird on this, is the reason that I bought the expensive replacements. Was getting zero codes before removing the (completely worn out) factory shocks. I replaced shocks and both upper connectors with original GM stuff. The car now rides insanely better, but I’m getting these codes after installing the new stuff. I’ve basically narrowed it down to being bad new shocks. I now intend to just get a Tech 2 guru to delete the F55 system from the car, allowing me to put whatever shocks on it that I choose, and removing future headaches with this fussy system that I really don’t give a rip about anyway.
Thanks for the info. My car is a mostly stock (Borla Atak x-pipe/axle-back) ‘04. The ‘04, supposedly being a weird bird on this, is the reason that I bought the expensive replacements. Was getting zero codes before removing the (completely worn out) factory shocks. I replaced shocks and both upper connectors with original GM stuff. The car now rides insanely better, but I’m getting these codes after installing the new stuff. I’ve basically narrowed it down to being bad new shocks. I now intend to just get a Tech 2 guru to delete the F55 system from the car, allowing me to put whatever shocks on it that I choose, and removing future headaches with this fussy system that I really don’t give a rip about anyway.
If you replaced the connectors and they were good before, maybe they are not wired properly. Also if you bought them recently they should still be under warranty.
If you replaced the connectors and they were good before, maybe they are not wired properly. Also if you bought them recently they should still be under warranty.
Connectors were good before, but had oil on them from original shocks leaking (yet still no codes). There was really no wiring required, as they just snap onto the connector from the factory harness. I intend to get refunded for the shocks and go back with C6 shocks, or something similar.