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I need some help with this one.. recently changed out the rear hub/bearing on my C5z, Purchased a SKF from RA, I have longer studs in my hubs, and I
assumed i would knock the SKF studs out and install my longer ones, well that didn t go so well as the SKF holes are bigger and the OEM knurled portion of the stud is smaller . I believe stock is M12 x 1.5, i need M13 i believe. as the hole is .51. And am struggling to find studs that will work on the SKF hub. and they can t
help me except to say the hole is .51, which equates to M13 I think.. so my question is.. does anyone know where i can find M13 x 2 studs ?
How did you get the old studs out? Standard GM studs have a 0.509 knurl and I have not heard of SKF requiring a different stud. Scrolling through ARPs catalog I couldnt even see a 0.511 or 0.512 knurl that would work on a 0.510 hole. Something sounds off.
How did you get the old studs out? Standard GM studs have a 0.509 knurl and I have not heard of SKF requiring a different stud. Scrolling through ARPs catalog I couldnt even see a 0.511 or 0.512 knurl that would work on a 0.510 hole. Something sounds off.
i had a shop change stud on the oem hub, cause i didn t feel like taking it apart. but when hub/bearing needed replaced, i did it. tapped them out with a hammer. Talked to SKF again this morning and they telling me the hole is .51 in or 12.9mm.
"Standard GM studs have a 0.509 knurl:" i don t understand why the longer Dormans did not work.
i looked at a lot of sites also.. 13m is not common.
Last edited by walleyejack; May 3, 2022 at 10:05 PM.
I took it apart somewhat, don t feel like disassembling suspension again right now.. but the SKF holes are definitely larger than OEM.
hoping these pics can show the difference.
Last edited by walleyejack; May 4, 2022 at 12:01 PM.
Can't tell much from the pics but Kubs is correct, the standard knurl diameter is 0.509. Specs on the ARP M12 x 1.5 studs show a knurl diameter of 0.509 (same as stock), with a required bolt hole size of 0.493 - 0.503. But specs on the SKF BR930198 hub show a 0.510 bolt hole size (as SKF stated) so I understand the confusion. Even the ARP web site https://tech.arp-bolts.com/wheel-stud-fit.php clearly says the hole should be .006 - .016 smaller than the knurl diameter, so a .510 hole would require a stud with a knurl diameter of .516 - .526.
I've always changed studs myself and have never had an issue with the ARP M12 studs so I'm not sure what's going on here. Don't know who "RA" is that you purchased the hubs from but maybe you could reach back to them and ask if they offer that same hub with studs installed, and if so what studs to they use.
Can't tell much from the pics but Kubs is correct, the standard knurl diameter is 0.509. Specs on the ARP M12 x 1.5 studs show a knurl diameter of 0.509 (same as stock), with a required bolt hole size of 0.493 - 0.503. But specs on the SKF BR930198 hub show a 0.510 bolt hole size (as SKF stated) so I understand the confusion. Even the ARP web site https://tech.arp-bolts.com/wheel-stud-fit.php clearly says the hole should be .006 - .016 smaller than the knurl diameter, so a .510 hole would require a stud with a knurl diameter of .516 - .526.
I've always changed studs myself and have never had an issue with the ARP M12 studs so I'm not sure what's going on here. Don't know who "RA" is that you purchased the hubs from but maybe you could reach back to them and ask if they offer that same hub with studs installed, and if so what studs to they use.
i don t know whats going on either.. i do know that the factory, standard knurled studs are too small for the hole.
If you want you can drill out the hubs a little more and use a Toyota stud. They are also M12x1.5 but have a 0.565 knurl diameter. They press into a 14mm hole.
Never even saw this. I had the same issue when I replaced mine with SKF all around a couple years ago and try to warn everyone I can when they ask about hub replacement. At the time, I scoured the web for a suitable replacement to no avail. I ended up returning the SKF rears, picked up Duralast rears, and swapped out the studs out with no issue.
In my search at the time, I came across a review left on Summit for the same part that said he had the same issue on his C5Z. Luckily I was able to return the hubs for a refund after I carefully put the supplied studs back in...lol, but yeah this is important info for people swapping out their hubs.
Never even saw this. I had the same issue when I replaced mine with SKF all around a couple years ago and try to warn everyone I can when they ask about hub replacement. At the time, I scoured the web for a suitable replacement to no avail. I ended up returning the SKF rears, picked up Duralast rears, and swapped out the studs out with no issue.
In my search at the time, I came across a review left on Summit for the same part that said he had the same issue on his C5Z. Luckily I was able to return the hubs for a refund after I carefully put the supplied studs back in...lol, but yeah this is important info for people swapping out their hubs.
Just curious, if the SKF hubs came with studs, why wouldn't they work? Too short? Wrong thread? Or both? Too bad, because SKF makes very good bearings. Just asking. I want to point out that the OP is using the internal measurement fingers to attempt to measure and outside diameter. This isnt the most accurate way to measure when using calipers. But sometimes you gotta do whatcha gotta do...
The studs work just fine if you want stock length studs. We're talking about swapping them out for longer studs. Either for racing purposes or just so you can safely run larger spacers to give you more wheel fitment options.
Yeah I didn't really look at the measurent pictures, but they're definitely larger. Can't really measure them without popping them out of the hub haha, I agree. I did measure mine while they were out, but I didn't document the actual size.