I have a 2002 C5 with LS3 that I just finished building. I also swapped my car from auto to manual at the same time. When I put the car on the trailer and went to the dyno, I did not notice it then, because the car was running so rough because of the stock tune. He was able to dyno it up to 3,500 rpm's that's it. I have not driven the car because I am having an issue with the clutch. I have a LS7 fly wheel, clutch and pressure plate. I bought these parts from Tick, along with the C5 slave cylinder and shim kit. The rest of it came out of a C5 Z06 that I bought from Vette Villains. When I installed the shim kit, I measured according to Ticks instructions, called them the next day, I was told to install a .113 shim and I did. With the issue I am having they then said that it sounded like I had too much shim (RPM said the same thing) causing it to over travel the clutch, so I pulled the torque tube and rear end out. I re-measured and the numbers came out to .150, right where I need to be. So, I put everything back together with no shim, same result.

Here is the list of issues;

1) When the car is not started I can put the car in any gear
2) When the car is running I cannot put it in gear
3) The car starts to roll forward even if the clutch pedal is to the floor when I start it
4) If I let up on the clutch a little it will stop rolling
5) When I start the car in neutral and try to put it in any gear it starts to roll even though I am not in gear yet

I moved the shifter all the way forward and to the rear using the two bolts that hold it to the torque tube, no difference either way. I power bled the system when I installed it, and again tonight when I put the car back together, no air pockets.

I am at a loss and don't want to keep taking this car apart again and again. Thoughts?

 

It sure sounds like you need to pull the TT again. If you do, please post up your measurements before you put it back together, because it sounds like there is a mistake somewhere. Sorry to hear of your troubles.

 

Will do, I plan on taking it apart again today. But, there are no shims in there now.

 

Here are the numbers.

 

Brand new one on the top, on the bottom is the new one from the car. I see no differences in them other than the length of the yellow springs. Maybe something is stuck? I believe the slave cylinder is the upgraded C5. Definitely not a C6 slave cylinder.

 

So the last time you put it together it was with no shims? Did you take your measurements with the slave spring removed and fully collapsed?

 

Yes no shim, yes, spring removed

 

Do your A and B measurements match this?

 

Yes. That is what Tick sends you when you buy from them. Although, it doesn't state what set of fingers to measure to. That's why I called again the first time I took it apart, three of the fingers were just a little bit more toward the rear of the car than the others. The difference was small to the eye, but huge when it comes to measuring. That's why there is two sets of numbers showing on the yellow page in the above pictures.

Keep the questions coming, we just might find the issue....

 

In theory, a LS-7 clutch should bolt up and not need shims but you already know it was too close because you said it would start rolling with the clutch pedal depressed. When you measured did you use a straight edge and a caliper to get the depth? The slave is a stock GM part?

 

I used a 12inch steel ruler out of a precision square, and subtracted the thickness. I also used a 4 inch Mititoyo caliper and used it as a depth mic.

All parts are stock Z06 or LUC.

 

Looking at your measurements, the "tall" number only gives you .003 clearance?

 

That was with the .113 shim. I've read around on other forums, in the '90s jeep had an issue with the master cylinder. Mine is the stock unit I bought with the trans and such. Thoughts?

 

What did the clutch disc look like after you took it apart? I don't see how the stock master cylinder could cause an issue as it is non adjustable.

 

Disc looked good. Just talked with Tick with the results, they think it might be the master cylinder. They think it may not be pushing enough volume/pressure. So, they recommended their adjustable MC.

 

Sorry, that just doesn't make sense. I don't have anything against Tick's master cylinder but there are a whole lot of cars using the stock MC without issue.

 

I agree, I've seen write ups either way. But for now, I have not tried that, it will be one less unknown of the equation. Keep the ideas coming please...

 

I have the same clutch assembly in mine with the stock master, we slapped it in, no measuring, no shims. that clutch is self adjusting. you make sure the adjusting springs are fully set back before install it's good to go. this pdf is from the factory service manual

 

Not saying you are wrong, just trying to learn something. How do you think this applies to my situation? Again, just trying to understand why to do this. Thanks.

 

Your symptoms are what happened to me when my slave went out.
with the inspection cover off and someone else pushing the clutch, look up at the assembly and see if your slave is actually pushing the clutch fingers.
You should be able to turn the flywheel and the clutch plate should stay still.
Is it possible to get a bad brand new master?