AC Compressor Clutch/Pulley
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,008
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From: Kensington MD
AC Compressor Clutch/Pulley
I'm replacing the A/C compressor on my 2004. The old compressor I pulled off it, the pulley and the clutch spin freely by hand. On the new compressor the pulley spins freely, but the clutch does not spin at all—at least I can't make it do so by hand. Is that expected behavior for a new compressor? TIA!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Merritt Island, FL
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 57
From: Kensington MD
So I'm basically replacing everything except the evaporator (since I don't want to have to take apart the entire dash). I've flushed the lines and the evaporator, so in theory there should be no PAG oil in the system. The place I bought the compressor from says it should have shipped with the correct amount of oil. The manual says the accumulator, evaporator, condenser, and compressor each get 2 oz of PAG, and the system total is 9 oz, so I'm curious how they do math.
Anyway, assuming the compressor shipped with 2 oz in it, can I just add 7 oz total, between the condenser and accumulator, and possibly adding some more to the compressor (maybe 3, 3, and 1 oz)? I think it'd be difficult to add any to the evaporator due to the angle of the lines going in and out.
Anyway, assuming the compressor shipped with 2 oz in it, can I just add 7 oz total, between the condenser and accumulator, and possibly adding some more to the compressor (maybe 3, 3, and 1 oz)? I think it'd be difficult to add any to the evaporator due to the angle of the lines going in and out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,392
Likes: 218
From: Merritt Island, FL
It's always recommended to drain the compressor to measure the amount of oil in it, since, ya know, stuff happens. You can reuse that oil if you wish, but it is nice to know the amount before bolting it in.
The accumulator would be where I'd add a little more oil to get to the correct total, since its job is to handle liquid refigerant and oil ("accumulate" it).
The accumulator would be where I'd add a little more oil to get to the correct total, since its job is to handle liquid refigerant and oil ("accumulate" it).
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 57
From: Kensington MD
Also, my kit shipped with a bottle of PAG 150. RoccoC5's writeup references PAG 46. Other references to GM compressors seem to want PAG 150. Just wanted to confirm that the 150 is dandy.
Well, I just got my new compressor out of the box and turned it up so the ports were down, and gave the pulley a few spins, and no oil came out. They must have lied about loading it up at the factory.
Last edited by huesmann; Jun 25, 2022 at 06:38 PM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
V7 Compressors were shipped to Bowling Green for vehicle assembly containing the entire oil charge. You do not have to worry about distributing between the other system components. The a/c system was switched on as the vehicle continued down the assembly line which would distribute the oil before the car made it to the dyno test.
The compressor has a crankcase. To drain the oil, you need to remove the oil drain bolt which is threaded into the front casting. To add oil, pour it into the drain plug hole in the front casting. Look up the torque spec so that you don’t strip it when you reinstall it.
The compressor has a crankcase. To drain the oil, you need to remove the oil drain bolt which is threaded into the front casting. To add oil, pour it into the drain plug hole in the front casting. Look up the torque spec so that you don’t strip it when you reinstall it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,392
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From: Merritt Island, FL
But I do agree that distributing is probably best.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2022
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From: Alexandria Virginia
I would not add all of it to the compressor. I just finished installing a remanufactured compressor from Napa, accumulator, orifice filter-tube and all new o rings. My compressor came with 3 oz (I removed the drain plug and poured it out while rotating the unit to verify) I added one more ounce. I added 2 ounces to the accumulator (just poured it in before install). I added 2 ounces the condenser while I had the high pressure line off replacing the o-ring (it's the line that is on top of the condenser). The last ounce I poured into the low pressure hose where it connects to the accumulator. Since you flushed the system, add all 9 ounces of oil to the system. Fast forward through a rented vacuum pump running for about 7 hours total, 1.75 pounds of R-134a, and I have freezing A/C for the first time in my 2000 FRC.
Last edited by Bruss; Jun 26, 2022 at 08:48 PM. Reason: clarify
Pro
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
There is nothing wrong with distributing the oil as you did if you are more comfortable doing that. For those who find it easier, and who need a full oil charge because they flushed their system, it is not necessary. As I wrote earlier, every OEM compressor was shipped to Bowling Green with the entire oil charge. Bowling Green was required to run the a/c system a minimum of 2 minutes before the car went to the dyno. The a/c was also run during some portions of the dynotest.