Changing the Harmonic Balancer

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Jul 6, 2022 | 09:00 PM

#21

vette4fl

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Quote:

Originally Posted by schmuckingham

My Milwaukee M18 1/2" electric impact spun my stock bolt out like butta. I did it on an engine stand and plan to replace with an ARP bolt

That piece is a brute, like 1400 ft/lb breakaway….

Jul 7, 2022 | 07:47 AM

#22

leadfoot4

Team Owner

Joined: May 2001

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From: Western NY

Quote:

Originally Posted by grinder11

The discussion was about removing the old, and installing the new, bolt. THAT is what most people struggle with.

And I reiterate, THAT struggle occurs AFTER you remove and/or get out of the way, a bunch of stuff..............

Jul 7, 2022 | 09:21 AM

#23

Davcruz

Burning Brakes

Joined: Nov 2021

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From: Old Dominion - VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by vette4fl

Toys4Life C5 has a good 3 part video series on this. He also includes some key tools you’ll need.

The thread by @Davcruz is pretty good, has a lot of good input posts, and also entertaining!

Good luck!

It was very entertaining! I got a good laugh every time I checked it. Regarding Toys4life, I believe a combination of things helped me get the my stock bolt out, and one of them is the Summit HB wrench he uses in the video. It put a full mechanical stop on the crank and allows the tool to do its removal work as intended rather than working through driveline slack.

Jul 7, 2022 | 09:23 AM

#24

Davcruz

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From: Old Dominion - VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThomasR

I'm going to do mine soon. Stock bolt head is 24mm, right?

Yes, 24mm

Jul 7, 2022 | 09:27 AM

#25

Davcruz

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From: Old Dominion - VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThomasR

I have a Snap-on XT7100 impact. Lots of bad reviews on the net but I've had it since new (2006?). No issues, I like it a lot. You will need a proper compressor and sized air hose. Specs are 700ftlbs and 1,300 blows per minute. It's going to rip that bolt right out.

The DeWalt DCF899 is rated at 1200 ft/lb breakaway, it did not take my bolt out although it may have helped. It did install the new ARP bolt and the torque wrench only moved a hair before clicking at 235 ft/lb, I had the DeWalt set on low torque for install as to not over torque it.

Jul 7, 2022 | 09:34 AM

#26

Davcruz

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From: Old Dominion - VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by leadfoot4

And I reiterate, THAT struggle occurs AFTER you remove and/or get out of the way, a bunch of stuff..............

This is 100% factual. CAN you do this by just moving the rack forward, yes. Do you want to do this like that, I sure as hell did not. Of course I was replacing the rack anyway which lead me to do the HB, then the AC, and the oil pump...wow the list is long.

I removed:

Hood
Radiator/fans
Steering rack
Water pump
Alternator/PS pump and bracket
Throttle body

R&R on the steering rack is so much easier with the alternator and water pump and radiator out of the way!

Jul 7, 2022 | 10:14 AM

#27

grinder11

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Quote:

Originally Posted by leadfoot4

And I reiterate, THAT struggle occurs AFTER you remove and/or get out of the way, a bunch of stuff..............

I think we're past that. Most know you must remove/drop some things to access the bolt. I've never struggled removing the rack, and/or dropping the cradle. The only time the radiator has to be removed, with a procedure like most any other car, is for a cam change.Time consuming PITA? Yes. Struggle? Not for most of us. The rest sucks, but the question I see asked most often, and what most people struggle most with, is that damn bolt. So I reiterate-It's not a problem with a good pneumatic.......

Last edited by grinder11; Jul 7, 2022 at 10:35 AM.

Jul 7, 2022 | 10:49 AM

#28

grinder11

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Davcruz

I started with a 1/2" impact running on a small 30 gallon 6.5 hp compressor. The bolt laughed at it. I chronicled my removal https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-s-tight.html because it was amusing and because I genuinely wanted others input (but mostly it was amusing).

We did discover some type of thread locker on the last 1" of the bolt one we got it out. Also, while 5' pipe on a breaker bar eventually removed the bolt, I do believe a Snap-On 1/2" impact broke most of the thread locker loose prior to putting the bar back on it.

@grinder11 I did not use a factory bolt or HB, I went ARP bolt.

It's good you went with the ARP. A 6.5hp, 30 gallon tank compressor should have no issues at all supplying enough air AND pressure. What you need is a better impact. If someone wants to pay $850-$900 for this job, it's their business. But $850 would buy an impact, and probably a good enough air compressor, that would twist that bolt out GUARANTEED!! I thought this thread was geared more towards removing the bolt, not having issues with the rest of the job, as some have posted. Many people have had to replace only the balancer, due to the problems with OEM units wobbling/separating. The radiator and A/C condenser only need removing for a cam change. If it becomes a "while you're in there" situation, their removal is no more difficult than any other car.