The clutch went out on my 98. symptoms: pedal stuck to the floor, shift lever wouldn't shift in or out of gear. I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch of times, I was finally able to shift and get the car parked. There was a wet grease spot where the car was sitting, so I think the problem is a leak or master/slave cylinder. Hopefully the clutch is ok. I got a bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid, which I am hoping will be good enough short term to get to the mechanic.

In the meantime, it has put the idea in my mind that maybe it would be fun to do some upgrades. If the clutch needs more work than I expect, I think a better clutch would be be in order. From the research I've done, the factory clutch has some design compromises that negatively affects high RPM shifting. Something about a diaphragm that distorts with pressure and interferes with shifting.

I'm not looking for huge power, 500-ish seems to be a good upgrade without getting too extreme. I want to maintain street drive-ability and reliability. The engine only has about 35000 miles on it, so I don't want to open it up. It seems a super charger is one of the better routes and doesn't require taking apart a perfectly good engine. It sounds like the AA type ( centrifugal?) has better cooling properties than the roots/screw type and is the way to go? One of my goals is to keep my car 'stealth' - I don't want to to be obvious that I've done anything. I think the AA type will better accomplish this?

Cooling is somewhat marginal with the stock setup, so I imagine that needs to be addressed as well. Output shafts/gears as well?

Any recommendations for someone in the Minneapolis/St Paul MN area?

Thanks.

 

So, about the clutch. You may have a leak at the quick disconnect for the master, or it might be separated or even broken. If you add fluid it might just run out as fast as you put it in.

I would have it towed to the shop of your choice to avoid breaking down on the way, and figure out what you’re dealing with.

If your slave is kaput, you’ll need to pull out the entire drive train. If that’s the case, perfect time for a clutch and/or rear gears.

 

Moved to C5 Tech.

 

Sounds like a hydraulic issue. I did a new GM master and slave to no avail. Then I did a clutch, also to no avail. Tick master was the fix for me, YMMV.

 

Either A&A or ECS blower, headers, cam, heads, intake manifold, and monster triple disc will be some good upgrades and a very common package for a C5.

 

No suggestions for a Corvette shop in St Paul?

 

Have you tried posting in the regional forums?

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/great-lakes-43/

 

I have the A&A kit in my 97 coupe, upgraded the clutch, also installed a lightweight flywheel, had the harmonic balancer pinned as well. You don't have to change much in the rear unless your planning to take it to the drag strip. Mine has 536 wheel hp and very good street manners, went with the quite vortech head unit with self oiling, only time others can tell is when the blow off valve vents. It is a wolf in sheep's clothing lol

 

this place has a good rep it's close http://www.dougrippie.com/

 

You have several questions.

1. Clutch. If you're actually planning to increase how much power your engine is making, match the clutch to that power level... so start there and work backwards.

2. Extra power. What are your goals exactly and how do you use the car? We got "stealth" and "without getting too extreme" but it's best to come up with specific goals and work backwards. Those goals should be in line with the driving you want to do; you don't want to build a drag setup for road course and you definitely don't want to build a road course car for getting groceries.

 

I don't intend to turn it into a drag or track car - I don't want to beat it to death. It is for street use. I want to maintain the good driveability it has now.

I heard back from the Chevy dealer, they can't order the parts, they want me to order the parts and they will do the work. But I'm not going to order parts without knowing what is wrong, they haven't even looked at it and don't seem terribly interested in working on it. If I need to put in a new clutch, I want something better and can handle more power/torque than OEM. While all this is going on, I got to thinking - more power would be nice, but again, just street use. I'm not going to race it.

Thankss.

 

Man, I’d run from the dealer. I agree with assembling the parts cash ahead of time due to supply. But just about anyone else is going to take better care of you.

The GM LS7 clutch is the same model they use in the C6 Z06, so it’s good for over 500 hp. McCloud makes a good twin disc, but when I spoke with them and described my intentions, which are similar to yours, they suggested I go with the LS7!

In any event, I hope you can find a qualified shop that has a better attitude, and hopefully some experience with high performance cars, and Corvettes in particular.

 

Check with Toys4life....I believe that he lives around there.

 

@Toys4Life C5

heres a link…

 

If you have no specific goals but just like the idea of having more power in the future, but not too much power, and want a reasonable kit at reasonable cost, the LS7 clutch is your easiest strategy. It's fairly heavy, but it's one of the more affordable options. How much do you want stock-like feel versus how much do you care about improving throttle response, reducing weight, etc?

 

From what I've read, the throttle response is very non linear, which is a consequence of the way the fly by wire is programmed, not necessarily as a result of power (or lack of).

I initially assumed I had a hydraulic leak, so I checked, and its full. It doesn't look particularly dirty either. So I have no idea of the cause.

 

The Op reached out to me (thanks guys for tossing my name out). I am indeed local (to him) and can help him decide what to do next. Op confirmed clutch reservoir is full (so no leak) so the only "easy" thing would be if the clutch master failed. I would put it on a lift, separate the line where the Clutch MC and Slave cylinder connect & see if the clutch MC can produce pressure - or not. If so, drivetrain must come out. If not, the MC could have failed (not terribly likely - but possible) and a new MC may solve the issue. Op - reach back out to me if you want to discuss further.

Cheers,
Toys