Clutch pedal has pressure when the car is turned off. I can start the car and have pressure but as soon as I put it into gear and start to go it just drops straight to the floor. I'm thinking it might be the slave cylinder. There is a little dribble of clear fluid coming near the rear of the bat pan.

 

I would replace the master first, flush, then retry.

 

I replaced the CMC a year ago.

 

Well, then you’re looking at a full clutch job. Replace those rear end seals too and inspect torque tube.

 

I went through the same thing. At first I was told(correctly, it turns out) that just changing the master was a bandaide and that once the hydraulics are contaminated the correct fix is to replace both master and slave. Naturally I went the cheap route and just changed the master. Four months later, guess what…. Pedal fell to the floor. A lot of us have learned this lesson.

Most replace the master and slave with GM parts, although some opt for the Tick master, and the standard clutch replacement is the GM LS7 kit. The kit from Sgoggin-Dickey includes clutch, flywheel, bolts, and pilot bearing. I bought one about a year ago and it cost about $550.

If your torque tube has the original bushings, they’re going to be rock hard if not cracked, so count on replacing those. I selected Dorman replacements which are quite a bit less expensive, as I have had good experience with their parts.

You may also want to consider a remote bleeder while it’s apart. This will enable you to change the fluid going forward without tearing everything apart. Check out Tick and Katech.

If you have a shop do the work it’s about $800 for R&R, plus parts. I highly recommend you round up all the parts before starting work, as some items have been back ordered.

 

It's the slave cylinder. It leaks right where the bellhousing is. It will come in a stream at times and sometimes dripples. I got a speed bleeder, gm slave, monster lt1-s twin clutch, torque tube bearings and bushings, rear axle seals, beefed differential mount hpi I think, rear main seal, and stage 2 rebuild kit. The car is 25 years old and probably still original everything drivetrain wise.

My co worker was supposed to help and teach me on removing the drivetrain and rebuild my t56, but kinda screwed me over and never did. So now, I do have a corvette guy that my old boss recommended, and they offered to do $720 to pull the transmission and $100 an hour to rebuild the transmission.

 

Man, that’s an impressive list!

For all the work you’re doing I trust you’re also replacing the master too?

 

Yeah, I think I'm going to replace it with an oem one. I would do tick but I don't know if I wanna throw $300 for one.

 

How about rear diff clutches?

 

I'm not at this moment. I wanna save up for a 3.90 install and will do it then.

 

FWIW, when I did the clutch, master, and slave, I also added a remote bleeder, from Speedway Motors. I actually ended up dropping the trans twice. The first time I put it back up and discovered that the fitting on the remote bleeder where it goes into the TT is poorly designed (or poorly selected), allowing the hose to smoosh up against the trans tunnel. I decided that was not good for my peace of mind (those hoses don't like to be kinked or smashed), so I dropped the trans again and inserted a 90º fitting that allowed the hose to change directions sooner, giving it a decent distance away from the tunnel wall. If your remote bleeder kit doesn't include a 90º fitting, I'd plan on buying one separately.

 

How did you go about routing it?

 

Get a Katech and you won’t need the 90°