Rather long intro to my question but you need the background information:
1) 4 years ago I started having a starting problem, just completely dead, no logic, no nothing, turn key just several lights light up on the dash, use a trickle charger when necessary, maybe 1 out of 10 starts it would be dead, wait 2-3 minutes then it starts right up..
2) 2 years ago I buy a new battery, works great, no issues maybe 50 consecutive starts, then it comes back, 1 of 10 ratio
3) Last summer same thing, 1 out of 10, 1 out of 8 starts just absolutely nothing, wait 2-3 minutes starts right up no issues while driving, Dealer does not have a clue!
4) I was told by an "expert" "its the cables, I have a fault in one of the cables". (PS I have two keys happens with both and I can not find the three cables to buy anywhere)
4) This summer, I ask the dealer to check battery cables. Bam, 40 or 50 starts perfect! Started every time!! Now it won't start every other start..... But wait....2-3 minutes and it starts.

What the ........? Try getting gas? and driving fully knowing the next turnoff. I'll have to wait. I need someone to fix??? Is it really bad, loose cables? I can't find new cables to buy. Help before I sell it. No longer enjoyable to get behind the wheel!!!!! Please

 

Rock Auto has two of the three cables in stock for the year I checked.

 

Where's the fault? If it's at the side terminal connector to the battery, you can just replace that part.
I had a similar problem with my '87 several years ago, and that did the trick.

 

Next time jiggle the ignition switch real good while trying to start and see if anything changes.

 

It’s a 20 year old car, a Chevy at that.. lower your expectations and you could be happier

 

Is the DIC showing any codes?

 

Needs to be in the Tech section, suspecting an intermittent ground issue. Guys there are better suited to solve this, follow up questions will be needed.

General is for black wheels and C5z obsolete tire requests.

 

Select Battery Voltage on the DIC…when you go and start the car if it reads way less than 10 volts you may need a new ignition switch !!

 

Ignition switch

 

Sac City also makes ready-made upgraded larger battery cables for a reasonable price:

https://www.saccitycorvette.com/Big-3.html


But I would definitely start by checking voltage on the ignition switch.

 

Had a similar problem last year, started with the battery, disconnected the terminals and checked the voltage--better than 12.5V. Since the battery was OK then checked the theft deterrent system. IF you hear the click from the TDR relay when you have no start condition I would recommed to use a meter and check if you get 12volt through the relay onto the purple wire going to the starter solonoid. If the car fires when you jump between C1 and A2 , it seems to me you may have a bad connection in the relay sockets C1/A2.
You do not have to replace the relay, but rather check the socket that the TDR plugs into making sure that the contacts inside the socket are clean and have good tension. The contacts you should check are of course the ones that the heavier gauge red and violet wires connect to. The red wire is 12volts and the violet wire is the one which connects to the S terminal on the starter solenoid, so with key on the red wire will have 12v, and violet wire will have 12v only when you turn the key to start. HTH

 

Replacement ..........Don't you have to take apart practically the whole dash shround, arm rest, etc???????????????

 

I also thought it had something to do with the security system because it always starts in 3 minutes??? Any Thoughts? Agree?

 

I think you need to buy @Gordy M a plane ticket….

 

I would say yes read the volts on the DIC i think 11 volts or under it wont start. I had this problem when the previous owner had rigged the fans to come on when key on would kill my battery. I eventually wired them correctly to the relay after having the fans tuned to turn on at 200 or 201 degrees. Someone told me the same thing the purple wire from the harness up top was to the starter but that was on a 97 z28 camaro.

 

yep - but it isn't as bad as it sounds. Did mine in a short afternoon. Wouldn't take as long if I had to do it again now...but then, that is true for most jobs...first time takes the longest.

 

Didn't work, I'll try again today. Thank you!

 

Okay, yesterday the car wouldn't start again (of course). The DIC showed it was only getting 11.7-11.9 volts when I was trying to start it!! It started in several tries approximately 3 minutes, After it started, I kept on the voltage meter while driving around yesterday and I was averaging between 13.1- 13.4 in everyday driving. Is this a good range?

It goes to the dealer tomorrow but I bought the ignition switch to take with me. I've done this before. Any thoughts to pass on ?

Thank you everyone!!!!

 

Replacing the ignition switch is not that hard.
You can do this yourself. Watch some videos. Be wary of the videos from people who are filming their first-time replacement experience. They will be making mistakes. Find a video from someone who had done this before.
Pay special attention to the thin wire behind the plastic switch bezel, the number and direction of turns it makes (take a picture!) and you'll be fine.

dan kowall

 

No and Yes!!!!!!!!! I had Paul Koerver diagnosis my starting problem at Corvettes at Carlisle during their free diagnostic session Friday. Paul disconnected the cables from the battery, inspected the cables and tested the battery, No issues. Then he pulled the codes and one of them was an anti-theft deterrent code both H and C came up. Because of the inconsistent starting problem, he stated the issue is in key cylinder because theirs not consistent connection and after 25 years of starts, it is probably worn out.

The advice from the experts here was to buy the ignition switch and so I bought it before going to Carlisle. 110 bucks. Paul said do both, install the new ignition switch and the new ignition cylinder. The ignition switch is manufactured AC/Delco. Well, it's in a box from them.

Now, I want to order the ignition cylinder and get a new AC/Delco unit. Do I get with the keys? without the keys? Where should I go to check prices and availability? I have two legitimate shops to install the parts I buy. One a dealer, another a specialty vette shop, Do I let them buy it in case there are issues? The dealer wanted $225 for the ignition switch, and I only paid $110. They said I could buy and bring in and did. Over two days at their dealer, the car started every time!!!

Suggestions?