04 vette
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
First let me ask...did the 80mph warning come up before the old shock was swapped with a non magnetic shock? Or did you get the error after the swap? Did your buddy plug the shock sensor back in?
I hate to punt...but I'm not sure where to go from here. If you pulled the fuse and disconnected the battery with all 4 of your original shocks installed. Maybe some others will chime in who can take it from here.
Just FYI- Rock Auto has the F55 RTD shocks in stock they are about $410 each.
I have the F45 in my '99 coupe. As soon as one fails I'll likely move to the Billstein Doug Rippie's. For the price they are tough to beat.
I hate to punt...but I'm not sure where to go from here. If you pulled the fuse and disconnected the battery with all 4 of your original shocks installed. Maybe some others will chime in who can take it from here.
Just FYI- Rock Auto has the F55 RTD shocks in stock they are about $410 each.
I have the F45 in my '99 coupe. As soon as one fails I'll likely move to the Billstein Doug Rippie's. For the price they are tough to beat.
Race Director
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,847
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From: Sleepy Hollow- NJ
It is my understanding that the shock simulators WILL NOT WORK for the 2004 model. Also, and while a bit off topic, this is important. I'd like to add that we forum members have seen quite a few scammers here lately. You may want to use caution disclosing your location. I've had 2 instances in the last week!! After the first, I deleted many personal info facts about myself, especially location. Sad, but true. Kudos to our Moderators and administrators, who have an uncanny ability to weed these people out quickly!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 1,144
From: Sleepy Hollow- NJ
the shocks that I have right now are the same oem f55 I didn’t swap the shocks , Cause I was told they weren’t gonna fit no matter what , the ones I have provided . Keep in mind I wasn’t focusing on shocks , my problem was the rear main seal , so when he dropped my whole rear cradle he sent me a video of my driver shock blown ,just to let me know that I have that too if I wanted to do but I couldn’t find the right one so I told him you know what just put it up like that until I found the right one , he did tell me that the connector wasn’t really connected correct on that shock , so I’m assuming when he connected everything good again it finally read that blown shock on my rear driver side because I never had the warning until that . Or the coolant problem. Honestly this car just been a pain lol I appreciate your help
The shocks give out over 20 years. So that's a nornal wear and tare item. Just expensive on RTD equiped C5s. If the work is done correctly and with caution not to break, kink, fray, wires these other issues likely would not have occurred.
But a new RTD shock for the driver rear and swap in what belongs there. I would at the very least do both rears at the same time. But you may get away with just the one of you are on a budget.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
The car is 20 years old. It's going to need some stuff just like any vehicle of that age. The coolant temp issue is likely because your mechanic friend pinched, broke or kinked the wire to the sensor. The oil pressure issue is a commom failure because the sensors are cheaply made and typically over torqued by the installer.
The shocks give out over 20 years. So that's a nornal wear and tare item. Just expensive on RTD equiped C5s. If the work is done correctly and with caution not to break, kink, fray, wires these other issues likely would not have occurred.
But a new RTD shock for the driver rear and swap in what belongs there. I would at the very least do both rears at the same time. But you may get away with just the one of you are on a budget.
The shocks give out over 20 years. So that's a nornal wear and tare item. Just expensive on RTD equiped C5s. If the work is done correctly and with caution not to break, kink, fray, wires these other issues likely would not have occurred.
But a new RTD shock for the driver rear and swap in what belongs there. I would at the very least do both rears at the same time. But you may get away with just the one of you are on a budget.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 1,144
From: Sleepy Hollow- NJ
With all the work that's being done and the doors and hood popped you could very well have drained your battery down. Did it slow crank? Throw it on a trickle for a few hours and see if that's the issue. Likely the battery ran down too low.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
not slow it wants to start just doesn’t start it’s like if I moved a wire or something the battery dosent sound dead but ima charge it to see if it will help
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Sleepy Hollow- NJ
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Tacoma WA
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Since your video indicated the starter cranks the engine it comes down to fuel or spark preventing the car from starting. As Johnny Hardcore stated start with checking every fuse or wire you touched. It most likely is something that you changed. Troubleshooting involves being VERY systematic in your diagnostic procedures to find the root cause of the issue. Praying and hoping you find the problem while randomly checking things is going to wind up costing you extra dollars, either on parts you did not need, or finding a qualified mechanic to repair the car.
If you do not have an Factory Service Manual that should be on your buy immediately list!
If you do not have an Factory Service Manual that should be on your buy immediately list!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,864
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One way the OP can quickly determine whether it's fuel or spark is simply some small amount of fuel, or starting fluid, sprayed directly into the TB. An engine, is an engine, is an engine! Point being, these are a V8, like any V8, with or without computers. Simply disconnect the airbridge from the TB, leaving all wires connected. Hold the TB blade open, and spray away. Then quickly get in the car, and try starting it. Granted, if its a fuel issue, it won't run but for a second, or two. But if it runs, you've found out it's a fuel issue. If it doesn't fire at all, it's a spark issue. Either way, you'll know which direction to go next......
Last edited by grinder11; Aug 24, 2022 at 05:56 AM.