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Hey guys wanted to come on here and ask couple questions on my c5 corvette 2004 , Recently my coolant temp stat on a cold start went completely to up saying it was hot right away. My second fans turns on and my check engine light turned on throwing me two codes ( P0118, P0418) I cleared codes on my dash and the the check light turned off and my coolant temp started reading okay again then like 15 seconds or less it goes completely all the way saying it’s hot then the the second fans turn on , also I had my rear main seal done and came out to find out by driver read side shock was blown , i installed after market shocks but now I got a 80 mph maximum speed and “ shocks inoperative “ code , mine does have a electric suspension package with the little switch by the E break , was doing some research was told I have to go with the expensive oem one. Any suggestions guys please thanks yall and have a good day 🤘🏽
Last edited by Brandon G; Aug 21, 2022 at 05:39 PM.
y guys wanted to come on here and ask couple questions on my c5 corvette 2004 , Recently my coolant temp stat on a cold start went completely to up saying it was hot right away. My second fans turns on and my check engine light turned on throwing me two codes ( P0118, P0418) I cleared codes on my dash and the the check light turned off and my coolant temp started reading okay again then like 15 seconds or less it goes completely all the way saying it’s hot then the the second fans turn on , also I had my rear main seal done and came out to find out by driver read side shock was blown , i installed after market shocks but now I got a 80 mph maximum speed and “ shocks inoperative “ code , mine does have a electric suspension package with the little switch by the E break , was doing some research was told I have to go with the expensive oem one. Any suggestions guys please thanks yall and have a good day 🤘🏽
The two issues (fluctuating coolant temps & max speed cutoff) are unrelated. You say you replaced your shock with an "aftermarket shock"? You only swapped one, and is it a magnetic shock?
First and foremost you need 4 magnetic shocks for the F55 to work and not throw a code. Otherwise you need to have the F55 tuned out with a Tech2. But then you should replace all 4 shocks with standard shocks.
The coolant temp issue sounds like you may have a short or a pinched wire going to the sensor on the driver side head. A short or pinched wire will cause the coolant sensor to read high. Did you do any work under the hood recently? Trace the wire to the sensors and wiggle it. See if anything changes.
I just reread your message. You swapped your shocks (plural) with aftermarket shocks. So now you need someone with a Tech2 to program the f55 delete.
1. Hook up Tech 2, turn car on, make sure module in the rear is plugged in. Do not unplug the rear module. 2. Use Tech 2 to delete the F45 option (F55 does not appear on the menu screen, use F45). 3. Save new configuration. 4. Do not turn car off, do not remove Tech 2. Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the grey connector (the widest one), leave any other plug(s) in. [leave the other 1 (F45) or 2 (F55) plugged in] 5. Turn off car, leave Tech 2 plugged in. 6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of car. [never plug them back in again, if you do the F45/F55 turns on automatically] 7. Turn car on to verify the "max speed 80 mph" is gone. 8. Unplug Tech 2.
Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Aug 21, 2022 at 05:18 PM.
Yes I had a friend of mine work on my car doing the (oil pressure sensor) which also didn’t end up reading just stayed where it was shown in vid . Also another question about the shocks as i had my rear main seal done due to leak my friend sent me a video of my driver side rear shock blown so that’s when i decided to try to install aftermarket shocks which I was suggested by the local auto parts saying they were fit for my 04 , turned them in to my friend once i received , turns out they didn’t fit so when he installed everything back up cause I told him to throw my shocks back up like that until I found the one I need exactly I got the (80mph and shocks inoperative display ) and the temp coolant started to trip and my check engine turned on , ( was never on before ) definitely gonna try to move shake some wires see if that helps them temp stat , so I would have replace all shocks in Order for the code to go away ? Without having the tech 2 even tho it was just the driver rear shock ? Say for example if I were to just replace the just that one shock that 80 mph code would still show ?
Last edited by Brandon G; Aug 21, 2022 at 05:48 PM.
The oil pressure sensor that was swapped in is also bad then. This is known to happen on occasion. Sometimes the new ones blow out immediately after install. O'Reillys sells a brass one which is known to be better than the aluminum ones more easily sourced.
Hate to say it but your friend is the likely cause of the coolant temp issue. He probably pinched the wire or frayed the wire to the coolant sensor when he removed the oil pressure sensor or intake plennum doing that job. Same side of the motor and wires very close to one another.
If your old magnetic shocks are back in the car and you're still seeing that error message pull fuses labled RTD under the hood and disconnect the battery. Replace fuses and reconnect battery. See if that works for you.
I’d say the coolant temp sensor on the driver side cylinder head right by the exhaust manifold #1 cylinder is defective (or an issue with the connector/wiring) and the oil pressure sensor is defective or wiring. I have seen them defective out of the box.
Side note is this thread should be moved to the Tech section.
Not gonna lie, this is why I hate working on my car. Crap goes wrong and I don’t know what to do. Sorry, no info for the OP, but I’ll give him a bump to the top.
The oil pressure sensor that was swapped in is also bad then. This is known to happen on occasion. Sometimes the new ones blow out immediately after install. O'Reillys sells a brass one which is known to be better than the aluminum ones more easily sourced.
Hate to say it but your friend is the likely cause of the coolant temp issue. He probably pinched the wire or frayed the wire to the coolant sensor when he removed the oil pressure sensor or intake plennum doing that job. Same side of the motor and wires very close to one another.
If your old magnetic shocks are back in the car and you're still seeing that error message pull fuses labled RTD under the hood and disconnect the battery. Replace fuses and reconnect battery. See if that works for you.
where exactly is that fuse can’t seem to find the ones that are labeled RTD , lol sorry newbie here 😅
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by ~Josh
I’d say the coolant temp sensor on the driver side cylinder head right by the exhaust manifold #1 cylinder is defective (or an issue with the connector/wiring) and the oil pressure sensor is defective or wiring. I have seen them defective out of the box.
Side note is this thread should be moved to the Tech section.
Programing will be similar. There are also small adapters that are available that will plug into where the shocks would normally plug in but they are $175-200
Search the forum for eliminating the F55 and you will have plenty to read.
Lol! You're in the wrong fuse panel. It's the one under the hood not the passenger kick panel.
#51
it didn’t work on mine , what would you recommend me
going with as in shocks. I have the f55 , cause I only seen that it was my driver rear side shock that was done , my passenger rear was good my question is , if I replace just that one shock would the 80 mph code display go away ?
it didn’t work on mine , what would you recommend me
going with as in shocks. I have the f55 , cause I only seen that it was my driver rear side shock that was done , my passenger rear was good my question is , if I replace just that one shock would the 80 mph code display go away ?
First let me ask...did the 80mph warning come up before the old shock was swapped with a non magnetic shock? Or did you get the error after the swap? Did your buddy plug the shock sensor back in?
I hate to punt...but I'm not sure where to go from here. If you pulled the fuse and disconnected the battery with all 4 of your original shocks installed. Maybe some others will chime in who can take it from here.
Just FYI- Rock Auto has the F55 RTD shocks in stock they are about $410 each.
I have the F45 in my '99 coupe. As soon as one fails I'll likely move to the Billstein Doug Rippie's. For the price they are tough to beat.
Last edited by Johnny Hardcore; Aug 21, 2022 at 08:38 PM.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Brandon G
it didn’t work on mine , what would you recommend me
going with as in shocks. I have the f55 , cause I only seen that it was my driver rear side shock that was done , my passenger rear was good my question is , if I replace just that one shock would the 80 mph code display go away ?
When you look at the A-arm do you still see this little link connected to the A-arm and it's position sensor?
I attached a couple pictures showing what they look like
This is the position sensor and the link
And this position sensor location "A" and "B" shows the link
This is the sensor and "B" is the link