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So my C5 that was in a wreck had the radiator support/skid plate completely ripped out. Everything on the frame is fine except for the front bolt on the passenger side rail. The impact managed to rip the entire insert out and mangle the metal a little bit.
I've already cut the damage out and plan on welding in a patch, but I'm at an impasse.
I could either weld a thicker plate in (probably around .25") and drill and tap for the mounting hole of the skid plate. I figure since it isn't structural the .25 should be more than enough to hold it in place.
Or I weld a thinner plate in, closer to the thickness of the frame itself, drill a hole and use a rivnut, similar to how the factory did it.
Only reason I'm considering the drill and tap method is I have the tools on hand, whereas with an insert I'll need to buy the inserts and the tool to set them. I just want to make sure that I'm not overlooking something that could cause catastrophic failure if I drill and tap it.
I hit a tire wall on track earlier this year and damaged my lower cradle. One of the rivnuts pulled out of the frame as well. I used a hammer to pound the hole flat and then filled it in with weld. Then I drilled a new hole and put a new rivnut in. Youre right that its not structural and doesnt see a lot of load unless something goes wrong. Half the car is held in with rivnuts so I think they would be fine to use again.
If you can weld, add some thin sheet metal to the new support frame sides before it's installed. This will help keep the new frame from collapsing if it hits a curb and better supports any added roller or skid or plate kit. Some holes might be needed on the drivers side for the air pump to fit but the added strength really adds to the part life just in case the supports are the next parts no longer available. I boxed in the sides of the new radiator support frame in 2010 then added a roller kit and it's like new after hitting a lot of curbs, back then the new factory support cost $250.
Since you have the patch out and have a welder, you could tack weld a nut on the back side of the hole.
Won't need the rivnut tools.
Larry
This is what I was going to suggest as well. Then there's no question as to whether or not the rivnut will hold onto a previously mangled piece of metal.