I'm at 372 rwhp now with mods I have made and when I go wot I can smell the clutch slipping and burning. It happens in all gears thru 4th. I'm at 61,000 miles and the stock clutch. I don't want to go with the LS 7 clutch because of the extra thickness and need to losen the bell housing. I need recommendations for a good clutch to hold my hp, I'm not going to do much more to the motor, this hp level is a blast and I don't want to start breaking other parts. Also would appreciate clutch install tips, I'll be doing this in my shop on jackstands. Thanks

 

Here's member Dope's write up on jackstands

 

The OEM LUK LS6 replacement clutch is fine for that level of power.

 

Thanks

 

As mentioned above the LUK clutch is an option at that power level. I ran the LUK LS7 for a short time at 398rwhp/389rwtq and found it inadequate (sticking and slipping) once hot. I didn't keep it in my car for more than 2 years. Never again.

I swapped it for a Centerforce DF017010 which at the time was about $600. I think they run about $625-$700 now give or take. Torque capacity rated at 622 ft/ lbs. (So room to grow).

The Centerforce has been outstanding for the price and in fact it's lasted and has been flawless for 10 years behind 428rwhp/408rwtq. Currently it's still alive after 1 year behind 640rwhp/568rwtq. I have over 40k miles on that clutch and a couple dozen passes down the strip (prior to the forced induction).

If I wouldve known I was going to supercharge my car I would've went a different route for more clamping power. But for naturally aspirated power it's a GREAT clutch. And still kicking.

Side note worth mentioning: I did pull it out after initial installation because I couldn't stand the chatter from the weight ring. Called Centerforce and they advised the weight ring can be removed. So I pulled it out, removed the ring and have been satisfied since 2009. (If memory serves Centerforce redesigned the ring in their later clutches so that chatter isn't as prevalent).