I'm planning on replacing my starter on my 2003 vert soon, and not looking forward to removing the exhaust pipes from the manifolds. They've been through a million heat cycles over 20 years, and my experience with such things is not pleasant (broken studs, rounded off nuts, etc). I've heard a few people say that you can drop the starter without removing the stock exhausts. I have 'slender' hands, and I's like to try it that way if others have had success with it.
(Exhaust manifolds and exhausts are stock, btw)

I have an impact wrench, but I don't have MAPP torch, so my plan B is to soak the nuts/studs on the exhaust with penetrating oil and go at them with the impact wrench. As I said earlier, I have experience in that area, and it is not good.

Thanks in Advance!

 

Good luck with those bolts, they can cause a real easy thing like removing a starter to become a pita, you have to remove the two bolts that mount the pipes to the car, but I don't belive that you can remove the starter with out removing the exhaust pipes from the manifold.

 

Thanks! The shop manual says to take the exhaust pipes down, too. But I have successfully taken shortcuts from the shop manual directions in the past, so I'm hoping that someone will weigh in that the starter can be wiggled out and the new one wiggled in! If that's not the case, I may just take it to a repair shop. I have a friend with a lift, so I wouldn't be crawling around on my back (no fun in this winter weather). And of course the reason I want to avoid dropping the exhaust is purely because of the 20 year old rusty fasteners.

 

Sometimes it's best to just pay someone to do the work, I have a one car unheated garage and don't care to work on my car especially with the recent cold weather we're experiencing.

 

I can’t imagine how you would do it without dropping the exhaust.

I would caution against using an impact wrench as well as that will probably just snap the heads off if they are seized bad. What someone recommended to me that I’ve had luck with was alternating between loosening and tightening if you feel the head twisting. I cant remember the part number but there are dorman replacement studs available at most auto stores, I would replace all the factory studs.

If you have access to a lift its really not much trouble dropping the exhaust but I understand not wanting to deal with the bolts

 

A BernzOmatic torch can be used to heat the nuts on the studs red hot to break them free for removal; wires or hoses nearby need to be protected from any direct heat. Using a back and forth twisting motion with a six point hand wrench as in tapping a hole instead of trying to remove in one direction only will clean the threads of rust as the nut moves off the stud, reheating is necessary if resistance to twisting increases too much even with more penetrating oil added. A common mistake is to not heat first but to spray oil on the cold, rusted threads and then attempt to wrench the nut off in one direction using enough force to snap the stud off the manifold.

 

Buy a MAPP gas torch.

 

Thanks to all the Forum members who have posted so far, with some great suggestions. I'm postponing the work until after the new year, but I'll be drawing on the ideas you've all posted. I have Kroil (Great stuff! )and plan to use lots of it. Before I use my impact wrench, I'll plan to loosen/tighten the bolts by hand to see just how bad the situation is.

On the bright side, I did find a post where someone claimed that they were able to get the starter out without dropping the exhaust pipes -once the wires were disconnected- by determined wriggling of the device!. That's likely my fallback positiion if I can't get the exhausts disconnected. The good news is my buddy with a lift is reserving a spot for me in January! With the extra time, I might order a heat wrap for the starter.

 

They will break but they come out of the manifold easy and they are still available gm 12562640

 

You should be able to do it without dropping the manifolds. I was able to snake mine out without I have shortys so should be the same. Just had to pull the O2sensor.

 

You don't have to drop manifolds, you do have to drop the exhaust pipes from the manifolds. I do not belive that you can wiggle the starter and remove it without dropping the exhaust pipes as I have tried, and was unsuccessful.

 

I miss typed. You should not need to remove any part of the exhaust other than the upstream oxygen sensor. Removal of that O2 will give you room to move it forward and get the correct angel to get it out. Disconnect the connector for the downstream O2 also. here is a picture of where it will come out. I have a wide band installed so I would have to remove that also.

 

Just remembered some of these cars had pre cats. If you have those you may have to drop the mid pipe.

 

A suggestion when removing the nuts that hold the downpipes in place. If you can, use a small wire brush to clean off the exposed portion of the studs. Then apply some "never seize" to the studs, as close to the nuts as possible. Warm the nuts with your Bernz-O -Matic. If you have an impact wrench, turn it to it's lowest setting, and try to loosen the nut. If it won't spin off, try a higher setting on the impact wrench, and/or a little more heat. Repeat as necessary.

 

in the comments one guy removed without removing exhaust. I

 

Thank you, C5Mat! This gives me some hope! I understand that the 'accepted' way to drop the starter is the one shown in the shop manual that says drop the exhaust pipe, but I have skinny hands and 20 year old rusty nuts (TMI??)

I don't mind playing Tetris with the exhaust manifold and O2 sensors to get the starter out, if it saves me from having to coax 4 heat-welded nuts off the exhaust to manifold studs. In real life, I'll try to get the exhaust to drop down, but I'd hate like hell to get 3 nuts loose and then end up breaking the fourth one and having to deal with that drama. This way, if I come up against a particuarly stubborn fastener, I can rest easy in the idea that I can still get the starter out by twisting and turning it. I also happen to have a complete set of oxygen sensors that I bought when my Corvette threw a code right after I bought it. (Naturally the code never returned after I cleared it and bought 4 new sensors). I ca n finally install one or two in concert with this starter chore.

Thanks to everyone who responded! I'll take a dremel and clean up the exposed exhaust bolt threads, use some Kroil, try a combination of manual and impact wrenches going in both directions and say a few magic spells. Then if I run into problems, I at least have a backup plan! My new Bosch starter with 2 long bolts is anxious to take its rioghtful place next to the bell housing!
Here's what she looks like when she's not laid up in the garage sick bay!