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I just put in a Dakota Lithium starter battery to replace my dead battery. It starts the engine great and saves almost 20lb, but I'm having issues with my headlights, blower motor, and headunit power cycling every couple minutes. With the engine off but key in the run position, I'm getting a steady 12.9v on the digital gauge, and everything seems stable. With the engine running, it seems to constantly cycle from high 12v up to mid 14v, which is when I get the radio and stuff blinks off for a second, and the voltage swings back down. I've contacted the manufacturer, but figured I'd hit you guys up for ideas as well. .
I've got an ohm meter. I think that's what that acronym means.
DVOM is Digital Volt Ohmeter….you can check voltage, current and resistance (ohms)….Can you check VOLTAGE at the alternator B+ (thick red wire) ??…see what the voltage is there with the car running with a load on the engine…headlights on, blower on…if your voltage is good at the alternator but low at the battery you have a connection issue either at the battery or where the alternator B+ and the positive lead of the battery connect at the starter solenoid…can also be an issue on the ground side of the charging system…you can compare the voltage AT the battery to the alternator voltage…they should be close to each other.
DVOM is Digital Volt Ohmeter….you can check voltage, current and resistance (ohms)….Can you check VOLTAGE at the alternator B+ (thick red wire) ??…see what the voltage is there with the car running with a load on the engine…headlights on, blower on…if your voltage is good at the alternator but low at the battery you have a connection issue either at the battery or where the alternator B+ and the positive lead of the battery connect at the starter solenoid…can also be an issue on the ground side of the charging system…you can compare the voltage AT the battery to the alternator voltage…they should be close to each other.
I'll check it out. I never saw low voltage on the gauge, but who knows. I was thinking maybe the voltage regulator on the alternator was busted, or was somehow freaking out over some difference in the way the lithium battery charges.
I'll check it out. I never saw low voltage on the gauge, but who knows. I was thinking maybe the voltage regulator on the alternator was busted, or was somehow freaking out over some difference in the way the lithium battery charges.
Voltage should not go down to 12.5…a fully charged battery is 12.66…it may be that battery….never saw anyone on here use a lithium battery in their car so who knows ??
Voltage should not go down to 12.5…a fully charged battery is 12.66…it may be that battery….never saw anyone on here use a lithium battery in their car so who knows ??
It's supposed to be a straight drop-in, but I don't know. For what it's worth, I also put in a hyper flash module for LED turn signal bulbs at the same time. Now that I'm having issues, I'm kicking myself for changing 2 things at once. I wonder if I could jam my wife's car battery in the my battery tray to test it with a normal battery. It would be slightly easier than digging into my dash again.
It's supposed to be a straight drop-in, but I don't know. For what it's worth, I also put in a hyper flash module for LED turn signal bulbs at the same time. Now that I'm having issues, I'm kicking myself for changing 2 things at once. I wonder if I could jam my wife's car battery in the my battery tray to test it with a normal battery. It would be slightly easier than digging into my dash again.
I was going to suggest putting in another battery and retest.
I was going to suggest putting in another battery and retest.
Yeah, I'm going to do that tomorrow. The more I'm reading, the more it's sounding like the voltage regulator took a crap though. I killed the starter a few months ago, now the battery and possibly the alternator took each other out. Man I love driving old cars. lol
I had the same voltage fluctuation on my 04Z. It was the brushes worn out in the alt.
Replaced the regulator and all was well.
Larry
What brand did you end up going with? Alternators cost a good bit more than I was expecting for a new non-remanned unit. I usually like to put in upgraded components when stuff wears out, but looks like Powermaster is kind of the only option, and it get pretty horrible reviews on Jegs.
The regulator bolts onto the back of the alt housing. You don't have to disassemble it to replace the regulator. Just make sure your bearings feel good.
Unfortunately the car seemed to behave normally with a regular battery installed, and returned right back to its unstable behavior with the lithium battery installed. Voltage at the battery and at the alternator didn't seem nearly as unstable as my dash gauge would suggest. It read around 13.8-14.2.
Unfortunately the car seemed to behave normally with a regular battery installed, and returned right back to its unstable behavior with the lithium battery installed. Voltage at the battery and at the alternator didn't seem nearly as unstable as my dash gauge would suggest. It read around 13.8-14.2.
This battery has brass screw in posts. I was working on snugging up connections, because I actually accidentally loosened one of the posts while checking if the post to cable connection was snug. I over tightened the damned thing and snapped it off flush with the battery. Nothing a bolt extractor couldn't fix, but it sure felt sketchy drilling into 13lb of lithium battery. Of course it's not the thread size one can get at autozone, so now I'm sunk for today.
check the voltage drop on b+ and ground going from the alternator to the battery terminals. Most of these lithium batteries turn on and off with built in electronics so they don't over charge or over discharge and if you have bad connection that will add to the mayhem.